Drag update
12-28-2017, 10:02 AM
#1
Drag update
hey guys. Havnt posted here in awhile. And I havnt got to race my vortech car in awhile. But figured I would update what I have been up to.
My car vortech car has been sitting after swapping from vortech to mid mount back to vortech. It’s currently on a TI blower with a new set of ported heads making around 25psi. I’ll probably dyno within a few weeks to see what it’s making, also I just got my drag pack fitted and planning to run it in 2018.
Anyway so I have been racing a lot this year. I have been running our gutted built all motor Z which we were able to get it into the 11s. It’s built 11:1 with JWT C8 cams and made 299whp and weighs 2890 no driver with 1/2 tank of fuel. Really I feel the 3.9 gears and 28” slicks launching it at 7400 rpm probably made the biggest difference in getting it down the track. I managed a 11.93 @110 in it. Mph was low because we were out of fuel and it was leaning out up top. For 2018 we will be upgrading the pump and also installing nitrous to see what it can do.
also I have been running my GFs TT Z. It’s a 06 stock longblock with GTX2871R it made 540 on 11psi on E85 and weighs 3190. I was able to run it a few weeks ago with boost at 12psi and ran 10.69@121 coasting because I didn’t have enough fuel in the tank and ran out in 3/4th gear. So plans for 2018 are to run it with atleast a 1/2 tank and fix a wastegate gasket leak and try it on 14psi. Then I have a 3.69 diff I plan to install and see how it works.
Anyway here are are some pics.
My car vortech car has been sitting after swapping from vortech to mid mount back to vortech. It’s currently on a TI blower with a new set of ported heads making around 25psi. I’ll probably dyno within a few weeks to see what it’s making, also I just got my drag pack fitted and planning to run it in 2018.
Anyway so I have been racing a lot this year. I have been running our gutted built all motor Z which we were able to get it into the 11s. It’s built 11:1 with JWT C8 cams and made 299whp and weighs 2890 no driver with 1/2 tank of fuel. Really I feel the 3.9 gears and 28” slicks launching it at 7400 rpm probably made the biggest difference in getting it down the track. I managed a 11.93 @110 in it. Mph was low because we were out of fuel and it was leaning out up top. For 2018 we will be upgrading the pump and also installing nitrous to see what it can do.
also I have been running my GFs TT Z. It’s a 06 stock longblock with GTX2871R it made 540 on 11psi on E85 and weighs 3190. I was able to run it a few weeks ago with boost at 12psi and ran 10.69@121 coasting because I didn’t have enough fuel in the tank and ran out in 3/4th gear. So plans for 2018 are to run it with atleast a 1/2 tank and fix a wastegate gasket leak and try it on 14psi. Then I have a 3.69 diff I plan to install and see how it works.
Anyway here are are some pics.
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BluestreamDE (12-28-2017)
12-28-2017, 04:32 PM
#5
New Member
Congrats on the 10.69, new stock block record I believe you said on ig.
Mind sharing your wheel offset and tire width? I'm going to need something in 17" to clear some wilwoods but would like to know what width and offset clears the body/suspension after a roll.
That sidewall wrinkling was sick by the way!
Mind sharing your wheel offset and tire width? I'm going to need something in 17" to clear some wilwoods but would like to know what width and offset clears the body/suspension after a roll.
That sidewall wrinkling was sick by the way!
Last edited by yosip1115; 12-28-2017 at 05:42 PM.
12-29-2017, 02:50 AM
#7
Congrats on the 10.69, new stock block record I believe you said on ig.
Mind sharing your wheel offset and tire width? I'm going to need something in 17" to clear some wilwoods but would like to know what width and offset clears the body/suspension after a roll.
That sidewall wrinkling was sick by the way!
Mind sharing your wheel offset and tire width? I'm going to need something in 17" to clear some wilwoods but would like to know what width and offset clears the body/suspension after a roll.
That sidewall wrinkling was sick by the way!
Those rears are 15x8 4.5 backspace. Which is about +27 offset. And the tires are 28x11.5 QTP Called Hoosier and told them the setup and that was what they suggested and they do hook awesome.
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12-29-2017, 04:33 AM
#12
Thats a good tip, thanks. I am running tomei 264s but am thinking of swapping over to a 272 intake then getting the Nismo VTC pulleys to make up for the small bit of torque drop in the middle and maybe gain a bit extra to boot. Also, I am able to hit 109-110 at the strip as well, but my best time is 12.74 with 60ft in the high 1.8s.I am running 26” QTPs. Any insight on how to get that down?
12-29-2017, 05:02 AM
#13
Thats a good tip, thanks. I am running tomei 264s but am thinking of swapping over to a 272 intake then getting the Nismo VTC pulleys to make up for the small bit of torque drop in the middle and maybe gain a bit extra to boot. Also, I am able to hit 109-110 at the strip as well, but my best time is 12.74 with 60ft in the high 1.8s.I am running 26” QTPs. Any insight on how to get that down?
Weight. Tuning and gears. With those 26s you should be pulling 1.6 60s. Maybe try less air and a higher rpm launch. Running the 28” qtps which is to big for that car I’m launching at 7400. And I also have the 3.9 gears. But definitely try adjusting the cam phasing that makes a big difference in the car. I can send you the adjustments to change.
12-29-2017, 05:40 AM
#14
New Member
I've heard of guys ripping their differentials out of the subframe with sicks/near redline launches. Do you have any bracing or have you not had any issues? Wouldn't surprise me if it was error on their end... Either weak bushings or improper torquing. They claimed they also bent a diff brace which sounds fishy...
12-29-2017, 06:49 AM
#15
Thx Ray. Noted. Good to know a 11.5 is safe on a <9" wheel
I've heard of guys ripping their differentials out of the subframe with sicks/near redline launches. Do you have any bracing or have you not had any issues? Wouldn't surprise me if it was error on their end... Either weak bushings or improper torquing. They claimed they also bent a diff brace which sounds fishy...
I've heard of guys ripping their differentials out of the subframe with sicks/near redline launches. Do you have any bracing or have you not had any issues? Wouldn't surprise me if it was error on their end... Either weak bushings or improper torquing. They claimed they also bent a diff brace which sounds fishy...
I have diff braces on all 3 cars. Blue and orange have stock bushings just the brace. Maybe just technique
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yosip1115 (12-29-2017)
01-01-2018, 05:13 AM
#17
New Member
On the high 11 sec. blue Z, what if you turned the maf away from the radiant heat source and removed the blue silicone coupler to shorten the intake pipe? In my experience the engine will benefit but you'd have to make an off-beat shield to keep the bay air out.
All those times are great. This is the the time of year to get the very best times. Cold air makes a huge difference. Got my 3,900 lb tank closing in on the 13's n.a. (15.5 stock, please don't laugh too hard), not even full bolt-on's yet, which wouldn't be possible in sweaty south summer conditions.
I think you can dump the clutch with great success in these conditions and without tearing up your ***-end because the track is cold, which should allow for slight spin even with slicks. It's probably a leap to crown this stock block fi car the fastest stock block, dethroning oldman350z due to lack of a correction factor regarding ambient air, baro. press., sea level, bla bla bla. I'd love to see the two side by side going down the strip and you're both only a couple states apart. Someone's gotta play the bookie also!
By the way, were's this track and is it still open?
All those times are great. This is the the time of year to get the very best times. Cold air makes a huge difference. Got my 3,900 lb tank closing in on the 13's n.a. (15.5 stock, please don't laugh too hard), not even full bolt-on's yet, which wouldn't be possible in sweaty south summer conditions.
I think you can dump the clutch with great success in these conditions and without tearing up your ***-end because the track is cold, which should allow for slight spin even with slicks. It's probably a leap to crown this stock block fi car the fastest stock block, dethroning oldman350z due to lack of a correction factor regarding ambient air, baro. press., sea level, bla bla bla. I'd love to see the two side by side going down the strip and you're both only a couple states apart. Someone's gotta play the bookie also!
By the way, were's this track and is it still open?
Last edited by onevq35de; 01-04-2018 at 08:16 AM.
01-13-2018, 04:30 AM
#18
On the high 11 sec. blue Z, what if you turned the maf away from the radiant heat source and removed the blue silicone coupler to shorten the intake pipe? In my experience the engine will benefit but you'd have to make an off-beat shield to keep the bay air out.
All those times are great. This is the the time of year to get the very best times. Cold air makes a huge difference. Got my 3,900 lb tank closing in on the 13's n.a. (15.5 stock, please don't laugh too hard), not even full bolt-on's yet, which wouldn't be possible in sweaty south summer conditions.
I think you can dump the clutch with great success in these conditions and without tearing up your ***-end because the track is cold, which should allow for slight spin even with slicks. It's probably a leap to crown this stock block fi car the fastest stock block, dethroning oldman350z due to lack of a correction factor regarding ambient air, baro. press., sea level, bla bla bla. I'd love to see the two side by side going down the strip and you're both only a couple states apart. Someone's gotta play the bookie also!
By the way, were's this track and is it still open?
All those times are great. This is the the time of year to get the very best times. Cold air makes a huge difference. Got my 3,900 lb tank closing in on the 13's n.a. (15.5 stock, please don't laugh too hard), not even full bolt-on's yet, which wouldn't be possible in sweaty south summer conditions.
I think you can dump the clutch with great success in these conditions and without tearing up your ***-end because the track is cold, which should allow for slight spin even with slicks. It's probably a leap to crown this stock block fi car the fastest stock block, dethroning oldman350z due to lack of a correction factor regarding ambient air, baro. press., sea level, bla bla bla. I'd love to see the two side by side going down the strip and you're both only a couple states apart. Someone's gotta play the bookie also!
By the way, were's this track and is it still open?
I tried several different intake setups and that seemed to work the best. Besides the velocity stack I had through the bumper but that wasn’t practical. And the track we run at is in Jacksonville NC. About 12’ above sea level
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onevq35de (01-13-2018)
01-13-2018, 05:01 AM
#20
New Member
Congrats on the best 1/4 mile n/a!
Interesting. Good stuff. Looks like you tried many things. The Kinetix Velocity might have been an issue and/or maybe the length of the pipe, the number of connections (air getting hung up on each transition piece). Not that you're having issues as this is all impressive stuff for sure.
More piping, n/a or fi, more pressure drop. I know admin tuning doesn't get good results with the velocity and 3.5".
I wonder if your "Franken-take" upper plenum is compensating for the pipe length?
I'm diggin your show
!
Here's some info I found to be true. It's a quote, can't remember where I found it but explains the radical difference I noticed between my "shorty" 4" and an extra 1 1/2' + 45* bend.
"But, BY DEFINITION, the tubing is a restriction. The fact that air is flowing through it causes a loss of pressure. Make it large enough, or short enough, and it will become an insignificant restriction, but it is still causing a pressure loss, and reducing the density of the air in the cylinders = less power. Making a piece of tubing twice as long will double the pressure loss. Adding bends to the tubing will increase the pressure loss.
Quote: Say going from a 3.5" inlet that is 3 feet in length to 4" inlet that is 4 feet in lenght? Or a 4" inlet that is 2 feet in length, etc? Making the diameter larger decreases the pressure loss, and making it longer adds some back in. Just playing with numbers, increasing the diameter from 3.5->4.0" decreased the pressure loss by about 25%. Changing the length from 3ft->4ft increased the pressure drop by 33%. So, your larger, longer pipe has more pressure drop than the smaller diameter, shorter one. (These are "rough" numbers for illustrational purposes only). If you increase from 3.5"->4", and shorten the length from 3ft->2ft, you will reduce the pressure loss. What you really need to look at is the magnitude of the pressure loss. You have 14.7psi available at the air filter to push air into the cylinder as the piston drops. If the ducting is costing you 1psi pressure loss, its reducing the potential power by 6.5%. If your intake is already so efficient that it is only costing you 0.1psi pressure loss, you are losing less than 1% of the power potential, so minor changes in diameter or lenght won't we visible."
Interesting. Good stuff. Looks like you tried many things. The Kinetix Velocity might have been an issue and/or maybe the length of the pipe, the number of connections (air getting hung up on each transition piece). Not that you're having issues as this is all impressive stuff for sure.
More piping, n/a or fi, more pressure drop. I know admin tuning doesn't get good results with the velocity and 3.5".
I wonder if your "Franken-take" upper plenum is compensating for the pipe length?
I'm diggin your show
!Here's some info I found to be true. It's a quote, can't remember where I found it but explains the radical difference I noticed between my "shorty" 4" and an extra 1 1/2' + 45* bend.
"But, BY DEFINITION, the tubing is a restriction. The fact that air is flowing through it causes a loss of pressure. Make it large enough, or short enough, and it will become an insignificant restriction, but it is still causing a pressure loss, and reducing the density of the air in the cylinders = less power. Making a piece of tubing twice as long will double the pressure loss. Adding bends to the tubing will increase the pressure loss.
Quote: Say going from a 3.5" inlet that is 3 feet in length to 4" inlet that is 4 feet in lenght? Or a 4" inlet that is 2 feet in length, etc? Making the diameter larger decreases the pressure loss, and making it longer adds some back in. Just playing with numbers, increasing the diameter from 3.5->4.0" decreased the pressure loss by about 25%. Changing the length from 3ft->4ft increased the pressure drop by 33%. So, your larger, longer pipe has more pressure drop than the smaller diameter, shorter one. (These are "rough" numbers for illustrational purposes only). If you increase from 3.5"->4", and shorten the length from 3ft->2ft, you will reduce the pressure loss. What you really need to look at is the magnitude of the pressure loss. You have 14.7psi available at the air filter to push air into the cylinder as the piston drops. If the ducting is costing you 1psi pressure loss, its reducing the potential power by 6.5%. If your intake is already so efficient that it is only costing you 0.1psi pressure loss, you are losing less than 1% of the power potential, so minor changes in diameter or lenght won't we visible."
Last edited by onevq35de; 01-13-2018 at 05:06 AM.
