bcoffin23

cliff notes:
bought a 2004.5 350z that was sitting for a few years
changed all fluids
changed brakes (07 brakes)
drove to alignment shop, felt the car getting sticky in the rear on my way there
shop aligns car, goes for a test drive and then the car stops and won’t move. Almost like the ebrake is stuck on
lift bith rear wheels at the same time and won’t rotate

any ideas?

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Your pad rusted to your disks.

Put it in gear and work it back and forth until it breaks free.

Edit: Oh wait you lost these in motion. Not sure.

bcoffin23

karlt

The sliding pins that the caliper bodies slide on maybe corroded and causing the rear brakes to stick. Remove the pins, clean them up or replace them, lube with copper grease and reassemble.

bcoffin23

Update:

Disconnect driveshaft, and the driveshaft spins freely so it isn't the transmission

The rotors rotate 1 inch left and right freely so it isn't the brakes.

When I pull the ebrake, the rotors will not move at all, so it isn't the ebrake.

I now have the differential completely off and will crack it open this week to take a peek inside. The confusing thing is that it is a Nismo diff. with minimal miles on it (less than 20k). I replaced the fluid and only drove the car maybe 5 miles at low RPM before it got bound up. No idea how that could have happened.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

What brand/type of gear oil did you use in the Nismo diff?

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Who filled it? Did you fill it to the correct level with the correct fluid?

Atreyu'z 350

Where did you get that diff? If it was broke open and the gearing was changed, are you sure it was properly re-shimmed? What all do you know about this new diff you got?..

SQuaLZ

Sounds like the diff to me. My first diff locked up on me when it blew. Almost crapped my pants when it happened. Sounded like a shotgun to the back of my head.

Similar things that happened to me. The rear wheel locked up and would not budge. They had to basically drag the car onto the flatbed.

bcoffin23

Royal Purple Synchromax

bcoffin23

Yes, it was filled correctly. I am sure.

bcoffin23

Diff was on the car when I bought it. It used to be a "show car" and only has 24k miles on it. The pumpkin was most definitely opened before since I can see the gasket maker on it.

I think you may be right. I could hear a whining and chattering coming from the rear end as if the gears where slipping. I wrote it off to "rattling exhaust" but that may not have been the case.

Cracking it open today or tomorrow.

bcoffin23

Yeah, we had to be creative getting it onto and off the flat bed. My AAA driver was awesome.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Sorry to say, this is the wrong lubricant to use in a LSD.

bcoffin23

<5 miles in snychromax would ruin a nismo diff?

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Just FYI show cars are hardly ever built right.

Just hope the shimmed it properly.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

I have no idea how quickly a clutch type diff can be damaged using the wrong fluid. You'll be able to determine THAT when you disassemble and inspect the LSD.

SQuaLZ

Nissan using the wrong fluid in my transmission caused it to blow in under 50 miles...

bcoffin23

I use royal purple synchromax in all my cars. Both the transmission and differential. I use it in my track cars (all BMWs). Never have I had or heard of this fluid ruining a diff if <5 miles under minimal load. Then again, if this truly is a result of the wrong fluid, I am going to feel like an idiot.

What is the proper weighting for a nismo diff? The car is going to be making around stock power. Maybe 15-20hp more to the wheels after I get it re-tuned.

bcoffin23

What fluid caused it to blow?