Transmission Decisions
01-10-2019, 02:04 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Transmission Decisions
Hello Z brothers! I am sad to say my CD001 tranny is almost toast. My car has 159k miles and the engine has 82k but stock tranny. 3rd gear grinds all the time besides if I double clutch. 5th grinds only when cold. It’s all clunky and my pilot bushing is going out too from the noise. I’ve tried to sell the car but no one wants one with a bad tranny so I must keep it.
Ive put a lot of attention and money into it and don’t want to sell it just now. How long can I keep grinding 5th until it goes out? I hate having to double clutch every time into 3rd. I can’t race and stuff lol basically making it so unfun.
Getting a clutch is cheap and my friends dad can do labor for cheap. My problem is getting a new tranny. I don’t want to spend a lot on one since this is my daily driver and it’s getting old. I’ve thought about doing a manual to auto swap but don’t know if that’s possible. Rebuilding the transmission but I’ve heard that costs the same as buying a new one. I would get the CD009 but it’s $1.7k and I’m trying to avoid that price tag.
ik you guys will think I’m cheap and want everything free but I want your guys opinion on what I should do and what would be the cheapest for me?? The interior and exterior are almost flawless with a new paint job. What would you guys do or recommend? Thank you to everyone that helps!
Ive put a lot of attention and money into it and don’t want to sell it just now. How long can I keep grinding 5th until it goes out? I hate having to double clutch every time into 3rd. I can’t race and stuff lol basically making it so unfun.
Getting a clutch is cheap and my friends dad can do labor for cheap. My problem is getting a new tranny. I don’t want to spend a lot on one since this is my daily driver and it’s getting old. I’ve thought about doing a manual to auto swap but don’t know if that’s possible. Rebuilding the transmission but I’ve heard that costs the same as buying a new one. I would get the CD009 but it’s $1.7k and I’m trying to avoid that price tag.
ik you guys will think I’m cheap and want everything free but I want your guys opinion on what I should do and what would be the cheapest for me?? The interior and exterior are almost flawless with a new paint job. What would you guys do or recommend? Thank you to everyone that helps!
01-11-2019, 03:02 AM
#3
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01-11-2019, 09:06 AM
#5
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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The question on the transmission replacement itself depends on how long you plan to keep the car. If it were me, I'd opt for (and may one day) a new CD009 or CD00A (the newest replacement evolved from the 009). But if you only plan to keep the car for a couple of years or so, just find a newer CD008 or if possible, a used 009. They do come up occasionally. There are a couple of comprehensive yards out here (in Rancho Cordova, CA) that specialize in Nissan/Infiniti. You might want to check them out for current "inventory"...
https://www.google.com/search?client...issan+recycler
I've used other yards in that area - there's a whole bunch of them on "Recycle Road" that specialize in various marques. Sourced a couple of transmissions for my other non-Nissans back in the day. Worked great. Segue/digression: Those were the days when I would actually do complete transmission/torque convertor swaps alone in the middle of the night hoisting transmissions with my chest and arms only! Thinking about those days.... "Was I f'n crazy?!"
Answer: Yes. My psychosis is no different today except I don't do that kind of heavy lifting anymore. Hahahaha.
01-12-2019, 06:35 PM
#6
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01-14-2019, 04:44 AM
#8
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I see. I actually got a man that wanted to buy it for $6500 regardless of the tranny issue. I’m now looking for an HR but heard about the oil galley gasket issue and I heard that costs more to replace than a tranny hahah
01-15-2019, 10:41 AM
#11
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01-15-2019, 11:38 AM
#13
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Hi Bernardo. You can drive the car with your current transmission about as long as you could after installing a new transmission. The difference is the aggravation you have with the "grinding noise and feel."
A transmission replacement mostly spares you the annoyance, but does not guarantee longer service. I was able to replace my faulty transmission under warranty, but before doing this I tamed the noise-aggravation by "rev-matching."
Since your car is older (I agree with your comments), I would keep what you have and learn to drive to its idiosynchracies.
A transmission replacement mostly spares you the annoyance, but does not guarantee longer service. I was able to replace my faulty transmission under warranty, but before doing this I tamed the noise-aggravation by "rev-matching."
Since your car is older (I agree with your comments), I would keep what you have and learn to drive to its idiosynchracies.
Last edited by Spike100; 01-15-2019 at 11:41 AM.
01-16-2019, 02:21 AM
#14
My 5th decided to give up on track back in 2017 ('04 128k).
I had the gearbox refreshed and rebuilt, it wasn't far off buying a use CD009 'box (here in the UK).
However at least I know that the trusted place I take the car to over here (for work beyond me) replaced everything that required it.
If I bought a CD009 'box, I'd have no idea about the condition of the parts inside, and may never cause a problem or 10 mins later it might.
Repair it (by a trusted mechanic) imho.
I had the gearbox refreshed and rebuilt, it wasn't far off buying a use CD009 'box (here in the UK).
However at least I know that the trusted place I take the car to over here (for work beyond me) replaced everything that required it.
If I bought a CD009 'box, I'd have no idea about the condition of the parts inside, and may never cause a problem or 10 mins later it might.
Repair it (by a trusted mechanic) imho.
01-16-2019, 06:43 AM
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
Hi Bernardo. You can drive the car with your current transmission about as long as you could after installing a new transmission. The difference is the aggravation you have with the "grinding noise and feel."
A transmission replacement mostly spares you the annoyance, but does not guarantee longer service. I was able to replace my faulty transmission under warranty, but before doing this I tamed the noise-aggravation by "rev-matching."
Since your car is older (I agree with your comments), I would keep what you have and learn to drive to its idiosynchracies.
A transmission replacement mostly spares you the annoyance, but does not guarantee longer service. I was able to replace my faulty transmission under warranty, but before doing this I tamed the noise-aggravation by "rev-matching."
Since your car is older (I agree with your comments), I would keep what you have and learn to drive to its idiosynchracies.
01-16-2019, 06:44 AM
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
My 5th decided to give up on track back in 2017 ('04 128k).
I had the gearbox refreshed and rebuilt, it wasn't far off buying a use CD009 'box (here in the UK).
However at least I know that the trusted place I take the car to over here (for work beyond me) replaced everything that required it.
If I bought a CD009 'box, I'd have no idea about the condition of the parts inside, and may never cause a problem or 10 mins later it might.
Repair it (by a trusted mechanic) imho.
I had the gearbox refreshed and rebuilt, it wasn't far off buying a use CD009 'box (here in the UK).
However at least I know that the trusted place I take the car to over here (for work beyond me) replaced everything that required it.
If I bought a CD009 'box, I'd have no idea about the condition of the parts inside, and may never cause a problem or 10 mins later it might.
Repair it (by a trusted mechanic) imho.
01-16-2019, 07:05 AM
#17
So I used to go: 1st-n-2nd, 5th-n-6th
I just had to take it easy.
Changing the gearbox oil to Nissans oil, and I think a little molyslip improved the situation.
Then several months later I changed the gearbox mount, and that solved my issue completely by then. Better shifting and not having to go slowly once it was warmed up.
Then cut to summer 2017, driving on track and no problems at all until later in the afternoon.
Just suddenly it crunched going into 5th, and on that circuit you only touch 5th briefly in a few places.
I called him up, and asked him what I could do. He said it's fine to drive around the problem, just don't use 5th. If you're crunching it, you're going to break off something in there...obviously you'll cause more damage.
So for about 7 months I saved some cash for the rebuild, new jwt clutch/fw etc.
When the mechanic rebuilt the gearbox he checked everything over, and it was a little cheaper than expected, the baulk rings on 5th and reverse (just worn, not broken).
I hope that helps.
Last edited by RobPhoboS; 01-16-2019 at 07:07 AM.
01-16-2019, 12:33 PM
#18
New Member
Thread Starter
Back in 2012/13 I had the occasional gear graunch going from 1st-2nd, 5th-6th.
So I used to go: 1st-n-2nd, 5th-n-6th
I just had to take it easy.
Changing the gearbox oil to Nissans oil, and I think a little molyslip improved the situation.
Then several months later I changed the gearbox mount, and that solved my issue completely by then. Better shifting and not having to go slowly once it was warmed up.
Then cut to summer 2017, driving on track and no problems at all until later in the afternoon.
Just suddenly it crunched going into 5th, and on that circuit you only touch 5th briefly in a few places.
I called him up, and asked him what I could do. He said it's fine to drive around the problem, just don't use 5th. If you're crunching it, you're going to break off something in there...obviously you'll cause more damage.
So for about 7 months I saved some cash for the rebuild, new jwt clutch/fw etc.
When the mechanic rebuilt the gearbox he checked everything over, and it was a little cheaper than expected, the baulk rings on 5th and reverse (just worn, not broken).
I hope that helps.
So I used to go: 1st-n-2nd, 5th-n-6th
I just had to take it easy.
Changing the gearbox oil to Nissans oil, and I think a little molyslip improved the situation.
Then several months later I changed the gearbox mount, and that solved my issue completely by then. Better shifting and not having to go slowly once it was warmed up.
Then cut to summer 2017, driving on track and no problems at all until later in the afternoon.
Just suddenly it crunched going into 5th, and on that circuit you only touch 5th briefly in a few places.
I called him up, and asked him what I could do. He said it's fine to drive around the problem, just don't use 5th. If you're crunching it, you're going to break off something in there...obviously you'll cause more damage.
So for about 7 months I saved some cash for the rebuild, new jwt clutch/fw etc.
When the mechanic rebuilt the gearbox he checked everything over, and it was a little cheaper than expected, the baulk rings on 5th and reverse (just worn, not broken).
I hope that helps.
01-21-2019, 08:19 AM
#19
Well I'm in the UK, so the price comparison won't be relevant to yourself unfortunately (it's expensive here).
If it only grinds when cold, it's early days. Try doing what I suggested first, new trans mount (go OEM if you don't want noise/vibrations), put OEM fluid in there and try some moly slip. That worked for me when it was those issues.
If it only grinds when cold, it's early days. Try doing what I suggested first, new trans mount (go OEM if you don't want noise/vibrations), put OEM fluid in there and try some moly slip. That worked for me when it was those issues.
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