Beau.2001

Hey guys! I recently found my motor had been hydrolocked on my 2006 rev-up with 150k and am doing a motor build! So far I have a parts list but I’m not sure what things I should add/ take away! Any help would be appreciated. Okay so I tried piecing together the main part of the kit like rods and pistons but found that z1 had a stage 3 kit for around $1800 that carried all the same parts. Weisco pistons, eagle rods, ARP head studs, OEM gasket kit, piston rings, ACL race bearings, and Z1s valve seals. The rest of the build I was planning to add was from conceptZ and it is Megan racing upgraded motor and trans mounts, Megan racing headers, AEM failsafe wideband Gauge, OEM timing kit including water pump, new “upgraded” OEM oil pump, And a JWT clutch. I’m also planning to assembly mostly myself due to time and money, the heads and machine work will be done by a shop. The heads I would like to keep stock if I can. And I’m hoping for good looking cams and crankshaft. The over all goals of the build are for the vortech v3 supercharger and my power number is somewhere in the 500 range. Give or take. I’m not sure if it would be smarter to get the “tuner kit” from concept that comes with everything besides injectors and I believe the engine management or the “pro kit” that comes with everything needed to install at home and run. Granted either way I will he taking to a tuner to clean up if possible. Keep in mind I haven’t built a motor before so this will be a new experience but I am surrounded by many, many mechanics who are able to help. Tolls will need to be bought as well so anything that make my life easier. I’m not too worried on price but I am 18 and I still have to work put finances etc. thanks for the help guys!

Beau.2001

ALSO. compression ratios. I want to be able to drive the car when the build is done and then put the supercharger on later down the road. But I want good compression ratios. What will I need to do in order to do this?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

well … where do we start?

My immediate thoughts

I'm not a big fan of Megan parts in general - I'd look for something different if it was me. get the Z1 motor / trans mounts. Look into Z1, stillen, DC Sport headers rather than megan.

Don't bother with headwork - the OEM heads are fine for 500hp. Do have them machined/milled flat to create a tight seal. And get the ARP L19 headstuds for sure.

I appreciate that your power goal is realistic

Do the '21 year old' you a favor and do not borrow money to rebuild this block - use cash/debit for everything.

the Z1 bundle is the way to go for what you need - compression ratio is going to be debatable but I'd put you in the 8.5 to 10.0 range and will be a good middle point.

Use the guys in the shop as mentors - lots of beer for the mentors

Do you have a version of the factory service manual? If not, get one (theyre free online).

Do you know that your crank is bad?

Look into the Dynosty main girdle - it's $250 but a good upgrade.

Consider upgrading your oil pump gears with your new oil pump - sucker punch motorsports or boundary engineering both make fine kits.

stick with the tuner kit and get your tuning platform, injectors, etc elsewhere. Youre going to need somewhere in the 700cc up to 1000cc injector. Look into Uprev for tuning - likely your best bet but also consider Haltech, AEM, and Link.

add an oil cooler

review as many build thread / turbo thread / supercharger threads as you can before and during your rebuild.

start a build thread, upload pictures

Beau.2001

Lol thank you. I’m trying to be practical and 1. Not start out with more power than I have ever even been in and 2. Keep it safe until I’m ready to upgrade others parts of the car.

Beau.2001

For some reason you’re whole post didn’t come in until today, thank you for the feedback it helps a lot! I will look into those parts. The one thing I was planning on borrowing money for is the supercharger but I have the job to back it up lol. Just want to build some credit and that’s one of the better ways I figured I could do it while backing it up.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Nah … Problem is on my end … I do the 'edit' button sorta as an autosave.

You're good …

another few good rules of thumb that'll help you out on this forum are (not that you are doing any of these - I'm just saying):
1. assume everyone is smarter than you until proven otherwise
2. stay very very humble, have zero attitude, and be extremely respectful of any member.
3. get thick skin, take nothing personal, and generally speaking no one is personally attacking you with their advice.

I don't do anything with credit and I don't borrow money (with the exception of a mortgage) and my life is significantly better bc of it. I live on a basic budget and because I'm not sending money to banks (in the form of payments) I have more money to spend on me. I wont go into this any further other than feel free to message me if you want more details. Otherwise, we live in the best country in the world and I invite you to live your life to the fullest!

Beau.2001

Thank you for the advice! I have another question on the compression ratios if you’re able to answer them! They have multiple ratios to chose from which are 10.0:1, 9.5:1, 10.6, and 11.0 all of those are (special order+$100) rather than the “stock” setting they have for F.I which is 8.8 which one do I chose?

Beau.2001

And my timing, do I need the 600$ OEM kit or is there others you would suggest for a cheaper price?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^I would aim for +/- 9:1 …

It'll give you plenty of room for tuning. Your 500hp is realistic and will take 12 to 15psi to achieve. You may be able to push up into the 550 to 600 if you want to bump your boost up to 18-20psi as long as your internals and supporting mods are in place.

Look up Conways thread … he basically did what you are looking to do - read all the vortech threads you can on this topic.

I would probably refresh your timing kit at the time you do your engine internals. The OEM is easily good to 200k miles and beyond, the rev-up can be problematic with the exhaust timing cog gear, if youre already at 150k miles you are skating on thinning ice.

Beau.2001

Thanks for the help, is there a way you could link the thread so I could find it?

Beau.2001

And let’s say I wanted to do OEM rods and pistons and rebuild the motor to hold the 500hp and spend less money. Would that be reliable and where would you look for those specific parts?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

nope ... rods / bearings shoot the bed at 425-450

Get aftermarket rods and pistons

and ...

'spend' 'less' 'money' never appear in a build that lasts mroe than 2500miles

search other similar threads and see what they use ... and do what they did.

Beau.2001

Thank you I’ll do some more looking

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Cheap out on external things, not internal imo. I use all ebay chinese parts for my turbo kit(including no name brand injectors) and nothing has failed yet.

Beau.2001

How much power is your kit running and can I find a thread on it???

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Love the optimism, but key word is "yet"

Love your build my man!

Beau.2001

Hahaha thank you! As of now I’m just getting parts in it and cleaning up so I can tow it to my dads garage up east. He’s got a lot more room to make this job easier and in the mean time I get to drop the motor into his Ls2 66’ el Camino. It’s gonna be fun but I’ll definitely keep you guys posted.

Beau.2001

Also, since I’m up late looking at parts I can’t afford yet. What do you guys think for engine management. I heard haltech and Osiris. The only thing is is haltech is more expensive and there’s multiple versions to choose. Which one do I pick etc etc. power numbers again are around 500 but I’m comfortable with 450+

Beau.2001

Lol I really wish more people took time to look at these FI threads and reply, you guys are great! I just like the variety of answers so I get a decent amount of conformation

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

The problem is you got the blind leading the blind … keep your thread up to date with quality content and it'll draw higher-quality members.