decrobinson1999

Hi, so I have been experiencing having the clutch paddle sticking about half way and not returning the full way. I have read up on this and seems to be a common issue, however I'm not sure what the actual issue I am experiencing is, I have seen some videos in which a simple adjust of the clutch to get rid of the 'dead space' seems to fix it, others saying it's the master or slave cylinder that needs refurbishing or replacing or that it has something to do with it being a safety mechanism when the traction control system is on (however I have experience it with it being turned off)

I just wondered what I should do about this as it always seems to happen when driving hard or trying to get the wheels to spin and break loose.

Is it best to try the clutch adjustment method, replace the cylinders or just go for a replacement pedal set up as I have heard they are very good and do resolve this issue. I am also looking into doing some other small mods so do have the money for this option if it is best.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

rustyschopshop

To tell if you really have an issue i would bleed the clutch sytem with fresh fluid and see what happens. Since you didn't state any vehicle info or milage its really hard to predict what other issues you could be facing as well.

mr. sparco

iTrader: (13)

Quick fix or check is to drain the reservoir as much as you can then refill with fresh fluid to see if that helps. It it brings the pedal back up that means you need to flush the system with new fluid. If it doesn't help then it is something else in the system that needs work or replacing.

Zester

First a proper flush. If it wont help I would bite the bullet and replace CSC with HD CSC. I did it on mine (together with OEM Nissan DMF and Clutch) and the difference is like having a new car. Clutch is light and just wonderful.
Bleed the system with opening the nut on master clutch cyl. line. Let the air out. Tighten it. And than proceed with regular bleed procedure. If it won't be OK I would simply replace the CSC.

decrobinson1999

Hi all, thanks for the advice, sorry for not including more info, it was late last night 😂

The car is an 07 350 with a DE engine, just under 90k on the clock.

The only time the pedal has stuck has when I've been driving pretty hard or trying to get the tyres to break loose. Then after a moment when the car has slowed down and I put it in neutral it either returns when I push the clutch back in or I have to pull it up with my foot, hope this gives a bit more context

Zester

You should start at the beginning:
- was the clutch fluid replaced
- is there enough clutch fluid
- is there a leak
- replace with High Temp brake fluid of doing hard driving/racing.

Pedal not returning is def thing that should be addressed asap. Start with the cheapest things first.

Also, 2007 and DE engine don't go together. If you have a DE than you have an external slave cylinder. If you have a 2007 (year of build) than you have an HR motor and internal CSC. If it's oem piece it's famous for failing, leaking fluid, sometimes destroying clutch and in worst cases that leads to slipping clutch and destroying flywheel also. I had to replace mine due to hotspots.

decrobinson1999

To my knowledge the fluid was changed by the dealer before I bought it, and i know the year doesn't match the engine, however it is an 07 plate with a recipe DE engine in it. I have heard that adjusting the clutch can solve this problem, however I dont know whether to just go for the aftermarket option as I do intent on getting a lighter flywheel at some point. Other than this issue I love the car more than any other I have driven

masterjr33

mine sticks some times as well. I plan to do the clutch fluid change and bleed soon. good luck.

there is some adjustment . and videos on youtube.

but i plan to do the flush with new fluid that isnt 100K miles and 14 years old first.

decrobinson1999

Good luck to you too, I'll be interested to know how that works out for you as I am currently just coming up to 90k miles on the car, I do hope however I get it sorted it resolved the issue and gives a lighter clutch feel that is more predictable as this is the only issue I have with the car, aside from wanting to do other mods to enhance the feel of the car, I love it as is apart from this

Z33.Marc

Honestly bro , I’ll get rid of that wack *** stock clutch and install a RJM clutch pedal , it’s so nice and won’t stick at all ! Had your problem and i said screw it ima get this aftermarket pedal completely adjustable and all , it only took me 1-2 hours due to being under the dash , takes basic knowledge and just follow the instructions but i highly recommend buying the RJM clutch trust me

decrobinson1999

Thanks for all the advice, I have ordered the RJM clutch pedal kit so I should ge able to fit it next week when I'm back off holiday, thanks for all the help and hopefully this will make the car even more fun to drive than it already is!

350ZXLR

Hydraulic fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs water). After driving hard, the heat created will vaporize the water in the fluid and create bubbles that are spongy when compressed.
This looks like a classic case of old hydraulic fluid. Drain the entire system and refill with fresh or use a power bleeder until the fluid is obviously fresh and clean. You might want to do the brake system, too, if this hasn't been done. No go is one thing, not being able to stop is quite another.

The next question is where the water came from. Check the cap on the fluid reservoir to make sure it seals properly. There's enough humidity in the air in most locations for water to accumulate over time.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

2 years late to the party... but good info

350ZXLR

That's certainly true, in a sense. This particular party isn't likely to die down anytime in our lifetimes, though, unless the anti-petroleum movement eliminates hydraulics in favor of electric clutch and brake systems and that'd be a pretty bad move since the brakes would go away when nothing's pushing the electrons any more. I've been dealing regularly with automotive hydraulic fluids since 1983 and our grandfathers and great-grandfathers started the party about 100 years ago. There are probably dozens of Z owners with misbehaving clutch and brake pedals today who might search the forums like I did--after all, that's the beauty of MY350Z. The vapor factor was a glaring omission from the thread since the OP said twice that the soft pedal happens after hard driving and no one picked up the clue.

P.S. The party is still in full swing for me because my son and I just finished a clutch / flywheel / Rear Seal replacement and the clutch won't fully disengage. I can only put it in gear with the engine off and then start the engine and keep my foot on the brake to prevent the car from rolling/creeping. There's about an inch of slack travel at the beginning of the clutch pedal stroke now and we didn't open the brake system. There's a gap somewhere either between the slave and the throwout yoke or between the yoke and the spring plate. We definitely installed the clutch disc the right way and double-checked the yoke assembly. The slave cylinder mounting bolts don't have any adjustment and unless flexing the hose and fitting allowed air into the line, I'm out of likely ideas. Would you like to chime in on other possible causes? (2004 Z33 Touring Roadster. 92kmi. New Z1 Motorsports Street Performance clutch and mid-weight flywheel--not that it's doing us much good right now.)

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Did you replace the pivot ball and or fork?

350ZXLR

No, just the throwout bearing, though we did remove, clean, and grease the fork and ball. On engine side we did the rear seal, flywheel, friction disc, and spring plate.

DISCLAIMER: I dropped the car back onto the ground this morning to move it out of the shop and make room for a work project. Haven't looked underneath yet to see if there's a gap between the slave cylinder and the fork or play in the fork.

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

When I replaced my clutch, I had a similar issue where I could not get it in gear and it started to creep forward with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

It turns out I had overfilled the MC reservoir. Not sure if this helps you out or not...

decrobinson1999

I’ve since got rid of that specific car 😂

but just to follow up, it was the rubber clutch hose, swapped it out for a stainless braided hose and also an RJM clutch pedal and all was fine, even on track

350ZXLR

...Which required a fresh system bleed and a generous amount of fresh hydraulic fluid. Chances are still pretty good that it was contaminated fluid. Glad to hear that you were able to resolve the issue, though.

I'm still trying to figure out if I still have air in my clutch lines and need to bleed more or if there's something amiss inside the bell housing. My next step is to see if I can disengage the clutch by actuating the throwout fork by some other means than the slave cylinder. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this safely without tearing up the rubber cowling over the fork stem?

350ZXLR

This thread has highlighted something interesting. Evidently the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid is lost knowledge--or there aren't enough older Z owners sharing their knowledge here on the forum.

Here's a pretty long thread of many people scratching their heads over a clutch problem that only appears in traffic where there isn't enough air flow to keep the fluid temperature low enough to prevent boiling. There's even a comment from an experienced mechanic saying it's not a fluid problem. He was talking about it not being air in the lines but was also discouraging anyone from bleeding the system as a remedy. As noted above, bleeding the system replaces old, contaminated fluid regardless of the reason you bled the system.

This makes one wonder how many headaches could have been avoided by considering that there could be water in the brake fluid.