Tein S-tech's, Front Koni Yellows and Front CT Sway Bar
 

Clearing some space...

Tein S-techs have about 8,000 miles on them and are in good shape. SOLD.

Front Koni Yellow shocks. Used for 1,000 miles while my custom double adjustable koni's were being rebuilt. No leaks, etc. Includes 1 adjustment knob. SOLD.

Carter Thompson front sway bar. Needs to be cleaned and have collars welded on the outside of the bushings. Used once. Without the collars it will hit the shock bodies. This unit is not adjustable. It is meant for stock class autocross cars. It is a 1 3/8" solid bar. It is VERY heavy and incredible stiff. Do not recommend this bar to anyone not running hoosiers, etc. While the bar is not adjustable in its current form, it can be drilled for additional adjustment. The bar is 35lbs and an odd shape, but I will ship at buyers expense. 75 + Shipping.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6080/...4385024c_b.jpg

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I like koni, Can you lower the price for me+shipping to NC 28315.

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03, I had been watching the market place for like a year waiting on some Koni yellows. And of course the day after I purchased them new some come on the block! Good luck with sale as the Konis come highly recommended.

So are you selling the Konis and the spring together or separate? If so Im interested in just spring if they are good to go on stock.

They are separate. They are just on there to save a bit of space. 120 + shipping for the springs by themselves.

Bump...

Would the Koni shocks be good for getting my front to lift more during launches and transfer more weight to the back?

Probably not the best if I am honest....

I can't be certain about that, though.

How much is the drop on stock shocks? Seriously considering this to eliminate wheel gap.

There are two perches...one is factory height (with stock spring) and the other is ~.5" lower. With the S-techs and Yellows on the front it will lower the car about 1.2".

As a 2 time owner of Koni yellows

You've got it backwards.

The lowest perch position is the as delivered position. The higher position will gain .5" in height.

In a unladen position you would likely not have suffecient spring preload on the spring would your recollection be correct.

No, not out of the box at least.

I have shock dyno's on them, part of what makes them a good autocross shock is they dish out a fair amount of rebound control rather quickly. Even at full soft the rebound levels are too high (in the 0 to 5 inches per second range) for your needs. HOWEVER, any authorized Koni revalver could change that.

As a solo mod to comply with SCCA rules that forbid running anything other then a oem rear bar I can somewhat see your advice against running the bar to anyone not running hoosiers. HOWEVER, the purpose of the mod is leverage as much rear traction as possible out of the cars weak oem VLSD. Unhindged of SCCA rules where you can run a aftermarket rear bar, your recommendation should be lifted. The CT-1 bar is the same as the Cusco front bar, along with the Cusco rear bar, run in it's stiffest position (also a solid 35mm od bar) I ran that bar setup with the oem suspension to great effect, loved it. Only reason I pulled and sold it was because I wanted a adjustable rear bar.

So, IMO CT-1 and a oem rear bar, agreed outside of running slicks, not a good idea. But add a aftermarket rear bar, it could be the right bar. And like you said you could add a new set of holes to softer it up.

If you are running anything serious above stock class...you wont be using the OEM viscous if you plan to be remotely competitive. Hence why I don't recommend outside of helping to transfer weight/load to op rear on a stock class car. Also, I've been in the stiffer spring...less bar camp for a bit now. I just prefer it. Others may not, but I make my recommendation based on my experience. Thirdly, once you get to SP cars...weight matters. This bar is HEAVY....

The bar is effective and inexpensive. I'll leave it at that...

PM sent

Springs are sold.

Shocks are sold.