Haltech: fine-tuning
#22
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You have to remember, the latency value input in the haltech is the absolute minimum you can run the injectors. SO at 13V the least amount of fuel you can run is 1.5. Thats why you couldnt get it to lean out anymore. A value of 0 in the fuel map would still be telling the injectors to kick out 1.5 fuel.
I dont think either of those are correct latencies. There's a thread that lists the latencies of many injectors. For such small injectors like the 600s, the values dont really matter since you'll be adding way more fuel than their lowest controlled pulse width.
so, just use the 2nd set of values. You'll never go down to a .45 IPW anyhow.
I dont think either of those are correct latencies. There's a thread that lists the latencies of many injectors. For such small injectors like the 600s, the values dont really matter since you'll be adding way more fuel than their lowest controlled pulse width.
so, just use the 2nd set of values. You'll never go down to a .45 IPW anyhow.
the values i got from the web were something like this:
10v - 2.0
11v - 1.8
12v - 1.6
13v - 1.5
14v - 1.4
the current one is:
8v - 0.920
9v - 0.815
10v - 0.710
11v - 0.605
12v - 0.450
Can someone please confirm the correct parameters for the same injectors?
Regarding Crank injection timing, i played around with it, but the car didn't wanna start. so i put it back to how it was.
10v - 2.0
11v - 1.8
12v - 1.6
13v - 1.5
14v - 1.4
the current one is:
8v - 0.920
9v - 0.815
10v - 0.710
11v - 0.605
12v - 0.450
Can someone please confirm the correct parameters for the same injectors?
Regarding Crank injection timing, i played around with it, but the car didn't wanna start. so i put it back to how it was.
#23
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idk if it's been aswered but you need a higher prime pulse time in the temperature cell you are cranking at. Keep adding until it fires right up.
Once it fires, if it dies after firing up then you go to the Post start enrichment cells and add fuel in those.
Simple fix, just takes a few minutes.
THe other stuff, just follow the cells when driving and add fuel. You can record it then watch the logs later and add fuel. An easy way to get it close is to see what the air fuel is in the cell then divide that by the a/f you want it. Then add or subtract that percentage.
so, if it's 15.4 and you want 14.7 then divide the 2. so that is 1.04 which means you need to add 4% fuel to get it down to 14.7. Click on the cell, hit the "P" key then type in 4 and it will add 4%. Type in a "-" in ther and it will subtract whatever percentage you want.
Once it fires, if it dies after firing up then you go to the Post start enrichment cells and add fuel in those.
Simple fix, just takes a few minutes.
THe other stuff, just follow the cells when driving and add fuel. You can record it then watch the logs later and add fuel. An easy way to get it close is to see what the air fuel is in the cell then divide that by the a/f you want it. Then add or subtract that percentage.
so, if it's 15.4 and you want 14.7 then divide the 2. so that is 1.04 which means you need to add 4% fuel to get it down to 14.7. Click on the cell, hit the "P" key then type in 4 and it will add 4%. Type in a "-" in ther and it will subtract whatever percentage you want.
#24
You have to remember, the latency value input in the haltech is the absolute minimum you can run the injectors. SO at 13V the least amount of fuel you can run is 1.5. Thats why you couldnt get it to lean out anymore. A value of 0 in the fuel map would still be telling the injectors to kick out 1.5 fuel.
I dont think either of those are correct latencies. There's a thread that lists the latencies of many injectors. For such small injectors like the 600s, the values dont really matter since you'll be adding way more fuel than their lowest controlled pulse width.
so, just use the 2nd set of values. You'll never go down to a .45 IPW anyhow.
I dont think either of those are correct latencies. There's a thread that lists the latencies of many injectors. For such small injectors like the 600s, the values dont really matter since you'll be adding way more fuel than their lowest controlled pulse width.
so, just use the 2nd set of values. You'll never go down to a .45 IPW anyhow.
my question is, if those latencies were the stock values, will the IDC be limited? or it's not related?
idk if it's been aswered but you need a higher prime pulse time in the temperature cell you are cranking at. Keep adding until it fires right up.
Once it fires, if it dies after firing up then you go to the Post start enrichment cells and add fuel in those.
Simple fix, just takes a few minutes.
THe other stuff, just follow the cells when driving and add fuel. You can record it then watch the logs later and add fuel. An easy way to get it close is to see what the air fuel is in the cell then divide that by the a/f you want it. Then add or subtract that percentage.
so, if it's 15.4 and you want 14.7 then divide the 2. so that is 1.04 which means you need to add 4% fuel to get it down to 14.7. Click on the cell, hit the "P" key then type in 4 and it will add 4%. Type in a "-" in ther and it will subtract whatever percentage you want.
Once it fires, if it dies after firing up then you go to the Post start enrichment cells and add fuel in those.
Simple fix, just takes a few minutes.
THe other stuff, just follow the cells when driving and add fuel. You can record it then watch the logs later and add fuel. An easy way to get it close is to see what the air fuel is in the cell then divide that by the a/f you want it. Then add or subtract that percentage.
so, if it's 15.4 and you want 14.7 then divide the 2. so that is 1.04 which means you need to add 4% fuel to get it down to 14.7. Click on the cell, hit the "P" key then type in 4 and it will add 4%. Type in a "-" in ther and it will subtract whatever percentage you want.
Thanks for the input guys, i'll get back to you with updates.
#25
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iTrader: (4)
Those latencies are too low for the DW's (the .45 @12v). I don't have the correct ones handy at the moment but I can tell you that it is very important to use the right ones, or you can have issues with cruise control and decel fuel cut. I posted a big thread about this a while back, it was about my Haltech decel cut not working properly and the solution was to use the correct latency values. You will have to pull a ton of fuel in the low vacuum columns if you raise your latencies. The lower the load, the bigger effect the latency will have.
#26
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Check out my post on the last page of this thread: https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....h+decel&page=4
The correct latency for the dw600's at 14v is 1.35 ms. I can get the rest for you once I get back to a computer
The correct latency for the dw600's at 14v is 1.35 ms. I can get the rest for you once I get back to a computer
#27
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Here they are, straight from Mike Deatsch, listed in order from 6 to 17 volts: you don't need to put all of these in the Haltech, the ones that matter most are around 10, 12, and 14 volts. It's much better to use the correct ones now, because if you chane them later you will have to completely retune.
3.57 2.87 2.42 2.10 1.88 1.71 1.59 1.47 1.35 1.27 1.19 1.12
3.57 2.87 2.42 2.10 1.88 1.71 1.59 1.47 1.35 1.27 1.19 1.12
#30
Those latencies are too low for the DW's (the .45 @12v). I don't have the correct ones handy at the moment but I can tell you that it is very important to use the right ones, or you can have issues with cruise control and decel fuel cut. I posted a big thread about this a while back, it was about my Haltech decel cut not working properly and the solution was to use the correct latency values. You will have to pull a ton of fuel in the low vacuum columns if you raise your latencies. The lower the load, the bigger effect the latency will have.
Check out my post on the last page of this thread: https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....h+decel&page=4
The correct latency for the dw600's at 14v is 1.35 ms. I can get the rest for you once I get back to a computer
The correct latency for the dw600's at 14v is 1.35 ms. I can get the rest for you once I get back to a computer
i'm not having an issue with cruise control atm, it's working fine on a straight.
also i went throught the link you posted, and i noticed you were saying you had fuel set @ 90% and after using the correct DW parameters, you were able to lower things down to 40%... on this regard, look at my fuel table posted above, you'll notice the cells are set to 35% and 37% which is even lower than your 40%, also my AFR is almost @ 14.7 at those percentage rates. all of this with 0.45 @ 12v parameters.
i tried using the correct values (IIRC i think you're the one who posted them in that injector latency thread) and AFR was pretty rich, even after pulling off alot of fuel.
so i'm not sure if this what i need to use or not.
i asked my tuner about this, he said it shouldn't be a problem if the engine is running fine and the AFR is correct.
#31
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Thanks mx..
i'm not having an issue with cruise control atm, it's working fine on a straight.
also i went throught the link you posted, and i noticed you were saying you had fuel set @ 90% and after using the correct DW parameters, you were able to lower things down to 40%... on this regard, look at my fuel table posted above, you'll notice the cells are set to 35% and 37% which is even lower than your 40%, also my AFR is almost @ 14.7 at those percentage rates. all of this with 0.45 @ 12v parameters.
i tried using the correct values (IIRC i think you're the one who posted them in that injector latency thread) and AFR was pretty rich, even after pulling off alot of fuel.
so i'm not sure if this what i need to use or not.
i asked my tuner about this, he said it shouldn't be a problem if the engine is running fine and the AFR is correct.
i'm not having an issue with cruise control atm, it's working fine on a straight.
also i went throught the link you posted, and i noticed you were saying you had fuel set @ 90% and after using the correct DW parameters, you were able to lower things down to 40%... on this regard, look at my fuel table posted above, you'll notice the cells are set to 35% and 37% which is even lower than your 40%, also my AFR is almost @ 14.7 at those percentage rates. all of this with 0.45 @ 12v parameters.
i tried using the correct values (IIRC i think you're the one who posted them in that injector latency thread) and AFR was pretty rich, even after pulling off alot of fuel.
so i'm not sure if this what i need to use or not.
i asked my tuner about this, he said it shouldn't be a problem if the engine is running fine and the AFR is correct.
When you say that it idles close to stoich at 35-37% VE, is that using the stock injector flow rates? If so, then that would explain why I was in the 90s (with injector flow rates in the Haltech set to 643cc) and why you would be considerably lower. Also your fuel pressure will have a big effect here - if your base fuel pressure is higher, the VE will need to be lower to get a stoich idle.
If you read that entire thread about my latency issues, you will see that my cruise control worked fine but I would always get a pop or a backfire out the exhaust when I let off the gas because the decel cut was not working properly. If I raised the injection time threshold high enough, the decel cut would work correctly but then my cruise control wouldn't work. All was fixed by using the correct latencies - at the cost of a complete retune of my fuel map!
If I were you here is what I would do:
- Set you base fuel pressure to 51 psi (with vacuum line disconnected!)
- Set your theoretical injector flow rate to 650 across the board (it won't vary with manifold pressure like the stock values did because you have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator vs. a static regulator like stock).
- Use the DW supplied injector latencies
NOW you can start tuning. That is the correct way to do it, bottom line.
Last edited by mx594; 11-22-2011 at 04:06 PM.
#32
Think of it this way; in the equation that the computer uses to determine required injector pulsewidth, the flow rate of the injector is in the denominator and the VE is in the numerator. So if theoretical injector flow rate goes down, VE must also go down given that the actual required pulsewidth for a stoich idle remains the same.
When you say that it idles close to stoich at 35-37% VE, is that using the stock injector flow rates? If so, then that would explain why I was in the 90s (with injector flow rates in the Haltech set to 643cc) and why you would be considerably lower. Also your fuel pressure will have a big effect here - if your base fuel pressure is higher, the VE will need to be lower to get a stoich idle.
When you say that it idles close to stoich at 35-37% VE, is that using the stock injector flow rates? If so, then that would explain why I was in the 90s (with injector flow rates in the Haltech set to 643cc) and why you would be considerably lower. Also your fuel pressure will have a big effect here - if your base fuel pressure is higher, the VE will need to be lower to get a stoich idle.
If you read that entire thread about my latency issues, you will see that my cruise control worked fine but I would always get a pop or a backfire out the exhaust when I let off the gas because the decel cut was not working properly. If I raised the injection time threshold high enough, the decel cut would work correctly but then my cruise control wouldn't work. All was fixed by using the correct latencies - at the cost of a complete retune of my fuel map!
FYI, i went with low CR pistons because my tuner recommended i do so. basically because he wants to avoid detonation (he can't pull much timing) because of the fuel available for us.
in a week's time, i'll probably finish my break in period.. so i'll take it again to the tuner to have it re-tuned and fully tuned on full throttle.
#33
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Yes, 35% using stock injectors flow rates/latencies..
i did go throught the whole thread, what you were facing then, i'm not facing now. cruise control is working fine and i don't hear pops on decel.
FYI, i went with low CR pistons because my tuner recommended i do so. basically because he wants to avoid detonation (he can't pull much timing) because of the fuel available for us.
in a week's time, i'll probably finish my break in period.. so i'll take it again to the tuner to have it re-tuned and fully tuned on full throttle.
i did go throught the whole thread, what you were facing then, i'm not facing now. cruise control is working fine and i don't hear pops on decel.
FYI, i went with low CR pistons because my tuner recommended i do so. basically because he wants to avoid detonation (he can't pull much timing) because of the fuel available for us.
in a week's time, i'll probably finish my break in period.. so i'll take it again to the tuner to have it re-tuned and fully tuned on full throttle.
Ultimately it is your car and you can do what you want, I am just trying to help you shortcut some of the learning process that I had to go through with the Haltech. I spent about a year gettting it all figured out (also see my huge thread on fuel resonance issues I had with the CJM stage 0!!!) and I am very picky when it comes to how my car runs during "normal" driving.
#34
New Member
iTrader: (4)
if i were you here is what i would do:
Set you base fuel pressure to 51 psi (with vacuum line disconnected!)
set your theoretical injector flow rate to 650 across the board (it won't vary with manifold pressure like the stock values did because you have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator vs. A static regulator like stock).
Use the dw supplied injector latencies
now you can start tuning. That is the correct way to do it, bottom line.
__________________
Set you base fuel pressure to 51 psi (with vacuum line disconnected!)
set your theoretical injector flow rate to 650 across the board (it won't vary with manifold pressure like the stock values did because you have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator vs. A static regulator like stock).
Use the dw supplied injector latencies
now you can start tuning. That is the correct way to do it, bottom line.
__________________
+10000
#35
I think you mean to say he can't add much timing because of the low octane fuel - too much ignition advance (timing) will cause knock, and yes lowering the compression ratio will make the engine less prone to knock.
Ultimately it is your car and you can do what you want, I am just trying to help you shortcut some of the learning process that I had to go through with the Haltech. I spent about a year gettting it all figured out (also see my huge thread on fuel resonance issues I had with the CJM stage 0!!!) and I am very picky when it comes to how my car runs during "normal" driving.
Ultimately it is your car and you can do what you want, I am just trying to help you shortcut some of the learning process that I had to go through with the Haltech. I spent about a year gettting it all figured out (also see my huge thread on fuel resonance issues I had with the CJM stage 0!!!) and I am very picky when it comes to how my car runs during "normal" driving.
i'm sure you're trying to help, and i appreciate that.. i think for me to truly understand what tuning is, i need to understand how each part of the engine works, and what happens when one of those parts gets upgraded.
i'm sure if i dedicate the time, i'll be able to learn that, but unfortunately i can't do much atm. i was just trying to fine tune what i got and i think for now, it'll do.
can't wait for the break in period to be over. i'll have the car fully tuned.
thanks again everyone.
#36
@max594, well explained on how to set the fuel parameters in upgraded injectors scenario. Thanks for sharing.
That is usually as how I set it up as well. Also in other cars that I have tuned if the correct parameters are not set up initially you will be fighting the STFT/LTFT after the fact.
So helping the car's o2 sensors trim a proper value is also crucial to having a good idle and cruising conditions.
That is usually as how I set it up as well. Also in other cars that I have tuned if the correct parameters are not set up initially you will be fighting the STFT/LTFT after the fact.
So helping the car's o2 sensors trim a proper value is also crucial to having a good idle and cruising conditions.
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