gtzero

Great thread! I just got a G4X installed and I'm learning all about what I don't know lol. This thread has been very helpful. I do have a question though. I see that some of you have deleted your narrow bands for W/B 02s. Looking at the wire diagram, would I be able to wire my FP sensor to An Volt 10 since I am using my AEM wideband for everything? I will add a Can Lambda when it arrives, but Tim told me that I would be fine with the AEM and he was spot on.

Also, I bought a expansion loom and I really don't think I needed it since it's full of mainly Digital Inputs and a temp input. Being a Link newb, I didn't really know the difference and thought I could just wire it in and configure it to whatever I wanted. That was a fail.... I had the same issue with my WB at first, tried to wire it into the expansion and it did nothing. So I used the stock MAF wires since I have a standalone IAT wired in. --- Am I missing something on the expansion loom?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

-Dee

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

You can do it multiple ways ... no wrong methods as long as it works and it's configured in the Link. I maintained my AN10 and AN11 wires for widebands and use AN11 for the actual input to the Link and I run them both through AEM UEGOs. I run Fuel Pressure on AN3 (which previously was my MAF).

I dont use the expansion loom as I have had enough inputs but if I ran out I would use an expansion or I'd start moving stuff over to CAN Bus.

High Performance Academy is a good (pay / subscription) resource and they have a tutorial just for the Link G4 (they use the G4+) but it may be a good starting place for you.

gtzero

Good deal! I really appreciate the reply. I'll look into HP Academy. I do already have a subscription to Evan's Performance Academy, but I hear a lot of good things about HPA also. I was just being cheap and wanted the month to month. I thought I would learn this stuff quickly... nope lol.

I actually putted the car around today to get it back to my apartment. I was terrified the whole way, but she did well and kept the RPMs under 2200. I wanted to log, but the cpu just shut off for no reason and my eyes were glued to the AFR gauge for the 3 miles of back roads.

I truly see why you experienced guys use the Link... it can do so much.

Thanks again bealljk!

RobPhoboS

What is the Evan's series like gtzero ?

gtzero

Hi Rob,

I actually really like it. It has tutorials on Link, Haltech, Hondata, Hp tuners and a bunch more. It's pretty much step by step instructions. Honestly, the instructor went too fast for me at first because I wasn't familiar with anything about the Link. But as I got more familiar with it, everything he said just made perfect sense. I have even been able to give my buddy advice on how to tune his Haltech after he told me what issues he was having. IMO it's well worth $50 a month.

gtzero

Update: I was able to turn off the closed loop fuel trims, IAT, and other corrections to "quick tune" the car with the Link this past weekend. Honestly within 15 minutes I went from putting along to being able to drive around my town doing about 30 mph (stop and go traffic). In an hour I was able to get up to 50 mph safely (all in target AFR), and today I got the car up to 80 on a long empty highway holding in cells to let the auto tuning trim the cells. I did have a couple of aw crap moments that cause me to let off the throttle when I saw my wideband lean out a bit. I didn't want to take any dangerous chances. So I'm done for now with the quick tune. My car can drive to the tuner next Monday and I can have the Fuel table 1 and timing dialed in on a dyno where it's a more controlled and safe environment.

In my opinion, anyone with a Link G4+ or G4X plug in should have no problems getting their car running. Or even fully tuning their fuel map with this feature. It's doesn't tune timing so I would recommend ensuring your timing table is reasonable before starting a quick tune.
The most difficult things for me was getting familiar with the software (it's not hard to use at all really, but takes some stick time), setting up the "drive by wire" throttle (cal is easy, but getting it to act like OEM is tricky because you can control so much), and understanding what can be used as analog/digital inputs and how to properly wire in each. Bealljk's advice made everything click for me.

I couldn't be happier with my Link!

Dee

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

What autotune feature are you using? YOu have the G4x?

I really like the fuel mixture map feature for fuel tuning but I've found that it can be a little ***** at times.

In reality, your engine will run relatively fine on a lean AFR as long as you're not in too much load. Bad ignition timing will do more damage, quicker, than a lean AFR. I tell a story, back in 2006'ish when I got my supercharger installed I was running 16:1 to 18:1 as my installer messed up my fuel tuning as he 'dialed-in' in my fuel with a narrowband o2 sensor. I was running the car pretty hard, street racing, on-ramp pulls, etc and luckily the engine didnt pop.

gtzero

Hey Bro, yep I have a G4X. It has a selection called "quick tune" under the tuning drop down. From my understanding it should be the same feature on the G4+. It's pretty awesome. I learned how to use it on Evans Performance academy. Before you can use the quick tune you need to ensure the car is up to operating temp so no start enrichment is active. Then turn off your IAT trim. Turn off Closed loop fuel trim. I created a page with my fuel table 1, and target AFR tables, plus other things like fuel pressure, IAT, ECT, MAP/BAP, knock count, and whatever else you want to monitor. Then press F10 to open the quick tune feature. I checked show settings and it will be a drop down that will allow you to customize how long you want to be in in a cell, how accurate, and how many times you want the ecu to continue to fine tune the cell. I selected something like 3 seconds in a cell and 3 attempts at first. It worked great. I also selected for the ecu to guess "across and down" for the next cells adjacent to the cell being tuned. It will pre-populate those cells to get you closer to optimal before you even reach those cells. Once a cell is considered tuned it will turn orange... Adjusted cells will be blue, this tells you that the ecu wants more time in that cell to dial it in better. If the cell is green, it means the ecu tried to tune that cell the max attempts that you told it. You can reset the cell by pressing a button on the menu to the ecu looks at it again and makes adjustments. Do control "S" alot to store changes. This will clear the blue cells but not the tuned orange ones and the link will continue to go to work on dialing in the cells. Rinse and repeat and the fuel map will get better and better the longer you drive and hold the marker in cells. I also save the tune at every light or stop sign so I don't lose my work if my laptop dies.

This will not adjust timing though, so I reduced my timing on the ignition map just to be safe. It was suggested in the tuning course to turn your CL and IAT trims back on after so the ecu can trim based on how you drive, but I haven't gotten that far yet to see how it works. I'm just going to wait for the dyno to ensure that I have a optimized fuel/ignition tables. Then I'll fine tune more with that base line.

*** Good info Bealljk on the AFR. Honestly I wasn't sure what was "normal". I was just being overly cautious because I'm still learning. And I'm really glad your motor held up with such a sketch tune.

Overall, this quick tune feature was insanely good for getting my car to be able to drive like normal without boost until I can get the car on a dyno. When on the dyno, my tuner should be able to use the same method but he will have the ability to hold the marker in each cell perfectly. I estimate on a dyno a tuner can populate an entire fuel table in about 30 mins tops.

Dee

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I know what youre talking about now … I’ve used it once but didnt feel comfortable running the car without the comp maps but yea, it’s pretty slick. I should give it another go.

It’s smart to tune as much as you can on the street, it’ll make the dyno session go quicker.

I dont know if Evan’s goes into the knock sensor calibration but if you can properly tune your knock sensor and have confidence in it (and have brass *****) you can street tune your ignition timing. It would take many itiration but ever-so-carefully advance your timing and watch your knock signal and assuming you’re not knocking than you can keep pushing timing. For the most part boosted VQ engines will be knock limited, so tune to knock, back it off a degree or two and go to the next cell.

HPA has a few good webinars and their Link course on knock, but they wouldnt tell you what I just did…and I agree, the best way to tune timing is on a dyno.

gtzero

I really think you should try the quick tune out and see if you like it. Of course save your current tune under a different name just in case you don't think the results are as dialed in as you have now. I messed with the mixture map method for a little bit, but I really preferred the quick tune in auto mode better.

Yeah Evan's has a full webinar on how to set up knock control, but I figure since I'm already taking it to the tuner I'll let him compare the cars knock sensor to his head phone setup (***** ain't that brass anymore). I ain't gonna lie, I'm scared of two things. First me calibrating the sensor wrong. And second me going to jail for WOT runs in this town lmao! Cops pop up out of nowhere even on the back roads and I never realized how loud vortechs are. You can't sneak anywhere lol.

I wasn't paying very close attention to speed the other day since I was trying to keep the rpms in certain cells and ended up doing 80 mph way too easily. I'm honestly not used to a Z pulling this hard and it hasn't even seen boost yet. Thanks for the advice on tuning ignition, I'll definitely use that method to fine tune and pull timing if I see knock events on future logs.

RobPhoboS

Just wanted to say thanks again for starting this thread, it's been really useful to keep open and check through it as I progress with the G4+

I wanted to also say that the Evans Academy is excellent, his live examples really help and then going back to the reference videos of whichever part your dealing with is handy too.
The HPA G4+ class is really in dire need of updating, as there aren't any examples and its more like a manual that is missing a bunch as it's clearly old (I wouldn't bother with that 'class' imho) - the webinars however in the archive are where the handy vids really are.

Timboj

Dang it. I only just realised Evans has a course on G4x. I should've bought that instead of the HP courses...

RobPhoboS

I like with the Evans one you can just sign up for a month or two, and take your pick from anything (actually really handy, especially if you're trying to decide on an ECU too).
One thing that I didn't realise, which is a bit daft on his site, at the bottom of the page for whichever course you're checking out, there's a cookie warning/okay thing (for me at least)...if you don't click it, you won't see the extra associated videos with the course
It's hiding a vital 'show more' button, which I didn't realise for the first couple of days (I assumed that the 'live' training classes were paid for separately but they aren't)