Sonic1

I have an 04 350 with a blown motor and am thinking about an upgrade to HR. I'm guessing I need the motor, wiring harness and ECU. Not sure about clutch/trans interchange. Has anyone done this swap? How involved is this project?

sickZ31/Z33

I would honestly just part out your Z and buy an HR and save you LOTS and LOTS of time and labor.. HRs aren't that expensive especially a base model.

Sonic1

Not a good option for me since I already have a gutted race car with full race cage and all solid suspension bushings ect. Which leads me bach to the question of HR motor swap requirements?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

too much to be worth it. if it is a full on race car, just ls swap it.

will give you more hp that is consistent

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

do you ever wonder why you see so many turbo build threads, ls swap build threads, built motor threads and not a single HR into DE thread??

I think you should take this on and create the first HR into a DE thread!!!

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

We've detailed this swap in past issues of the defunct Nissan Sport Magazine and can tell you that it is very involved. You'll also need most of the front clip to complete the swap as certain parts, like the starter, are on the opposite side of the engine (which also means the steering rack is different as well). That's not even the hard part: you'll still need to interface with other systems in the car and will need extensive time to re-pin the IPDM. Even after that, expect to have numerous CELs pop up as the wiring harness will have some system checks that lead to nowhere.

It's fine for a racecar, but not so much for a street ride.

Shin Beats

iTrader: (7)

Didn't Z Fever quote 10,000 for a complete swap, parts and labor?

phunk2

not really a big deal if you use a full standalone like the new haltech.. that is, if it supports the HR crank trigger. I would contact dynosty about it.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

there is a place by Houston called neverslo that does ls1-ls7 swaps starting for like 9700

SilverStone2003

iTrader: (3)

I know theres a thread on here where a guy did this swap. He had to pay someone to finish the wiring, pretty sure he had to use the HR dash harness, HR gauges, had to modify the steering column slightly, basically had to swap the entire front clip on the HR and still had to have someone else wire it in. I think Yuri at Wiring Specialties did it.

Sonic1

May as well go LS for all the trouble

phunk2

HR motor sounds like way less trouble than an LS if you ask me.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

how so?

phunk2

think about it.... 350z's came which an HR (you should know lol).

exhaust bolts up, intakes bolt up, driveshaft bolts up, shifter bolts up, radiator hoses line up, motor mounts bolt up, etc.

all stock and aftermarket parts for a HR Z would bolt up.

the issues that need resolving is a HR hood and an EMS.

With a HR swap, you could have a mechanically OEM quality setup. With a LS swap, no matter how nice, its going to be a hodgepodge mess of fabrication and welding and rigging through-out. Cool for a drift car or something, not ideal for a driver.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Gotta call BS on this one. Have you ever attempted to do a DE to HR swap? While some parts are similar, the two Z33 models are different enough that you're kidding yourself that it'll be a straight bolt-on swap. The most difficult part is the electronic architecture differences between the DE and HR. The BCM and ABS computers are different and Nissan took advantage of this update to revise how the wiring harness was utilized. Yes, you can utilize a standalone ECM, but it will never integrate all the functions the way the factory ECM does. Despite hours of pouring over the FSM wiring diagrams, it'll still be a hodepodge of rewiring to get most of the functions back. Not cool for a DD that has to pass emissions on a regular basis.

As someone who races a DE-to-HR Z and is intimately familiar with the details (or problems) with such a swap, I speak from experience.

phunk2

Again, its a bolt-in swap, and the EMS and wiring is the concern. The engine literally bolts into the car. The exhaust literally bolts up. The driveshaft literally bolts up. Everything literally bolts right in, making it a bolt in swap. Everything you need to complete the physical installation is available from the Nissan dealer. There is no cutting and welding. I have not compared the steering racks but I will take your word for it that the relocated starter requires the rack from a HR. So unless you can come up with a list of things you had to fabricate, I stand by it being a bolt-in swap.

By switching to a good standalone like the new Haltech, you will drastically reduce the wiring workload. We have a 350z with the Haltech and everything works perfectly (Except the factory VDC, which is replaced with a more advanced and adjustable traction control system in the Haltech). The car passes emissions too.

You must understand that systems like the Haltech are first and foremost universal systems and capable of running almost any 4 stroke engine created. When you get one that is chassis specific, such as the Haltech, you are even better off... because now it replaces all the secondary functions of the factory ECU, while STILL being able to run pretty much ANY engine. It doesnt matter if its even a VQ at all minus the convenience in that it BOLTS UP to the car. Having a VQ at ALL only aids in making the wiring easier, as its not quite as far off for reusing the existing engine harness and adding some extra wiring to it, as it would perhaps by using an entirely different engine that has almost nothing in a similar location.

As if the LS swap just runs off the stock DE engine management and harness or something! News flash: installing an engine into your car (that is not the engine it came with) is going to require wiring.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Let's get back to the original topic, which asks how complex is this swap? I've said it's not that easy, and you seem to think it is. How many Z owners are going to spring for a Haltech ECM to run their DD? I understand the Haltech (and the AEM and the...), but the point is, not many Z owners are in the position to purchase, install and dial one in. So before we get away from the original topic, let's be clear. The HR swap is not for the guy who has few mechanical skills, or even less money and time to put his DD back on the road. Purchasing a rebuilt DE and having it installed is a much better option for such owners.

phunk2

I am with you, and I did not mean to come off as that it was so super simple, or belittle the work done by others previously completing the task. I just wanted to imply that when starting from scratch, I feel the HR is a closer match to the chassis than the LS.

I also agree that a built DE is the way to go for the most part. It would take a special scenario to motivate me for the DE-HR conversion.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

may be bolt in, but almost guarantee it will be more expensive than an ls swap... he said this is solely a race car, who cares about gauges other than a tach at this point

T-dizee

iTrader: (6)

how about dont bother with any swap.... build the DE. The amount of money your going to spend into the swap, put into a build for the DE. I think fully built DE NA you can get over 300hp no prob...just saying... my 2 cents