So how am I supposed to run spacers with my s1's?
 

Normally on most rims i've seen, there are usually spaces in between the holes for the wheel studs. I have 15mm project kics spacers and noticed that the stock studs poke out of the spacers a little bit. I didnt think anything of it because i figured my works had spaces in between the lug nut holes to allow the rim to fit on the spacer. Apparently, i was wrong.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IMG_0022.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IMG_0023.jpg

So do I have no choice but to run extended studs with slip on spacers?

I tried this, but not sure if it's entirely safe. I put 2 5mm spacers on under the 15mm spacer. Now the stock studs arent poking out or in the way of bolting up my rims..

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IMG_0024.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...4/IMG_0025.jpg

I would personally get extended studs. ARP 3" studs are less thana 180 shipped on summitracing.com

thats the route i was planning on going. I was thinking of just stacking a couple slip on spacers..

The bolts you have attaching your spacers are not seated in the spacer, so that's not safe. You need to run spacers without built-in studs, and replace your stock studs with longer ones.

anyone?

Toss the Kics crap in the trash and order some fresh hubcentric spacer that require longer studs. Its that easy.

What is a good company to order the hubcentric spacers from? What size is recommended for the F & R? I have heard 15 and 20mm.

Thanks

DUDE NO! okay, the educated/engineering answer is that you can not put those 5mm spacers in there, whats happening is you are creating multiple shear planes on your oem grade/strength studs.....

The answer is what you said, you need to get longer studs with the 15mm slip on spacers, those studs are stronger, higher grade, and rated for the bending moments created on the added bearing area created by the slip on spacer.....

2nd choice: is to buy some sacrificial nuts, install them on your studs all the way to the hub, then cut the last 10mm's off the end of your oem studs......thus making them only 15mm long - get it.

then back those nuts out, which should fix your threads when hand turning them back?? backing them out should fix your mangled cut end?

then from there install the project kics you already own and ensure the wheel mounts flush since now your oem studs wont protrude out.

oh, and if cutting the end ruins a stud, pop in another oem.


They are not trash, they just dont work for his application.

not sure on company, but i would call and ensure they have "in stock, ready to ship" because if not, then they are drop shipping, and they dont even know how long that will be from the manufacture in japan-usually.

but for size, it depends on your wheels? you need to measure the gap and decide what you want? if your talking 350z oem wheels, then i would say 20/25 or honestly, i like 25/30 front and rear.

-Jason

Pretty much what Jason said but to find out what size you want, just stack your spacers and put the wheel on. See how it looks and order accordingly from H&R or Ichiba, etc.

Project Kics, you need to cut off the exposed OE stud so it can be flushed with the spacer.

*Edit* At least that is what I read once....

^ yes, thats what i wrote above....

FYI: The stock oem studs stick out 25mm....

any spacer you install over the oem studs under 25mm will have oem stud protrusion..........

-J