Squeaky Z

Anyone want to buy these :P 1500$ brand new mounted halfway lol. Ugh need to buy 19" now. Dont know if i should bother even trying to use. Will it look good n be safe with spacers?

MicVelo

Dude, I'm gonna say this JUST. ONE. MORE. TIME.

Use the available tire calculator and do your homework. My gawd, how many times are you going to ask the same question?

Look, if you like 20's, great, use 'em. Don't build your car by forum consensus cuz in the end, no one cares once it's done and you're the only one that's going to live with it and have to like it.

Sorry to be so blunt but everyone here has given you tons of advice and while no one's cup of tea are 20" in diameter, doesn't mean it's wrong. GoogleImage "350Z with 20" wheels" and you'll see tons of people "doing it all wrong" according to contributors - me included - here. So what?

Sorry all, this was going zombie quick.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

I even think 19s are too big...

But we have potholes here so I don't think anyone runs 20s here unless they got 33 inch tires.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

O yeah and you should just need spacers to clear the brakes... If the spoke design was different and they cleared the brakes you wouldn't need spacers at all. They are almost the same offset at oem wheels they are just taller and heaver and half an inch wider... Run 245 35 20 back tire its almost the same + - 10mm from the factory rear tire.

Squeaky Z

Alright ill do this tonight; so your saying keep the wheels and screw it; run them with spacers? Its either that or sell them now and buy the proper offset 19 " set most likely

Squeaky Z

So get my rear fenders rolled and run exactly what spacer sizes? Ill run a 275 30 20 in the back; is that the widest i could go without rubbing?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

15mm spacers should work.

245 30% 20 Front

275 30% 20 Rear

You would need to put them on and see if they rubadubdub

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Going to extend the wheels out 20 mm in rear 23mm front from stock 18s tire hight will be about the same. You can go outside with a ruler to confirm your fender rolling needs.

Squeaky Z

Would it be smart to go 12mm front / 15mm back or 15 for both or 15/20 as they all basically cost me the same now. Ill go with the tire size ya suggested + the proper hub ring

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

that is about 7/8ths of an inch

Squeaky Z

I basically want to know exactly what spacer sizes to buy. I know what tire sizes now. snd ill buy a new proper set in the meantime as i try this setup were figuring out

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

broad statement
20" come on the 911
20" come on the vette rear's
20" come on most ferrari's F & R , but i think on all at least the rear

but IMO 19" is the largest that should be used on 350z / 370z

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

jhc

Squeaky got some epic advice.

bith8791

Most are offered with either 18 or 19s, 20s as an option to appease the public who thinks a 20" wheel is cool or whatever it is they think.
Wheel sizes have been increasing for a while now, the last Corvette I drove, a C5 Z06 had 17s in the front, 18s in the rear.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

19 rear 18 front on mine

LunchBox20

iTrader: (4)

I recently went from a 18x10.5 +15 wheel in the back, to a 18x10 +20 wheel.
They seem to sit a bit sunken in, more than I thought. Would a 2.5 or a 5mm spacer help bring these out (obviously yes) but without causing rubbing? Currently running a 265/35 tire

MicVelo

You will need an 11.35mm spacer to bring the wheel out to where the original one was.

Rubbing will depend on whether the new tire is the same as (or IS) the old one. But the point here is the wheel offset and req'd spacer. You'll need to do the math to determine tire rub.

MicVelo

Well, this is a new on me....

Yesterday, took my car out for a hills run - first time out in the hills with my old 5mm slip on spacers.

After the final run down the hill, I noticed a whump-whump-whump sound that I thought was coming from my front end. Thought it might be some damage I sustained a couple weeks ago running over an errant muffler on the freeway.

But, since the sound was in tune/cadence with wheel speed, decided I'd check torque of the front lugs. Seemed OK.

This morning, drove the car around the block and noticed sound wasn't from front; rather, rear.

Jacked up car, checked every suspension component for anything loose and found nothing amiss.

Ding! Light bulb above my head! Check lug torque. Barely hand tight.

F***...... how could I be so stupid? I realize now that after I slipped on the spacers, the wheel hub rings (and now likely the wheels themselves) weren't fully flush with the hub face due to the spacers taking up 5mm of the hub ridge that the rings slide over and therefore not allowing the wheels to flush up and giving me a false torque reading.

Holy crap, did I get lucky. I pushed the car pretty good and just glad I didn't take a premature exit off the side of the hill due to a Lucille. ("Loose wheel", for those who don't know the old joke.)

NO MORE SPACERS and all good now. (Alternately, you can probably use a belt sander on the hub ring and take it down to wheel face flush. I chose to just forego them.)

Just something to watch out for if you use 'em.

EDIT: So if you're wondering why I didn't have the problem before with same spacers I used a few years ago, it's because I used them with OEM Track 2/GTs with the proper 66.1 hub hole and no need for hub rings.

the rook

Attachment 1


Ordered H&R 15mm bolt on spacers all the way around.
19/9 et25. 245/35
19/10.5 et20 265/35
Lowered almost 2 inches now.
Shooting for a half inch lower all around.
Setting camber at -2.2 front -2.5 rear.
Fenders are rolled but not pulled or flat rolled.

Thought??? Yes, No?
Pics of similar???
Just in for some feedback and similar setups.
Thanks.