visual difference in varrstoen vs. real TE37's?
 

besides the "FORGED" stamp on the real ones, how else can you tell VISUALLY the difference?

http://louisianazclub.org/coppermine...e37t_0192M.jpg

As you can see, the real one has Rays Engineering, Volk Racing, Monoblock and Forged embedded in them.

i can tell embossed logos or not even from pictures, which ones are real and varrstoen. the volk finish is unmistakable.

Nothing if you put a volk sticker on them :drunk:

thanks guys... u guys always give good fast responses!

Just open a new tab in explorer...find pics of both rims and look at the images side by side.

I dont really fee like doing it but I can bet the beveling and smoothing of the spokes isnt as good either...just a hunch...if we are only going visually.

Its easy if we're talking integrity and what they are made of.

It's kinda' interesting - I looked through the threads on this forum on those wheels and couldn't find any close-up, straight on pics to compare against mine.

The real test is probably in what you don't see in the pictures. Like Zerafian says, bevels, smoothness, the lip edge, etc. The devil is in the details.

there was a time when varrosten still had all the raised lettering except volk in them. We bitched to high hell about them having "Forged" on a cast wheel.

I didn't realize that was varrosten doing that. I totally forgot about that thread.

This is a broad generalization but it should help

:icon17: @ the "ARE YOU FUKCING SURE?"

Did your new wheel boxes and wheel tags come with a lot of "janglish" on them? If they did not you sir have purchased a new set of boat anchors! Of course the extreme lack of hotness is a giveaway too!

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cheston that chart was awesome lol... but what if they're 18's!

your thinking of the jlb apollo wheels, they are no longer a vendor on this site, but still are a vendor on g35driver.

+1 :dunno:

Haha, i'm still laughing about the chart..."Are you ****ing sure?"

Hahaha.

they have stampings on the rear hub by the lug nuts. I know my 18's say Forged, TE37, and Ray's if I recall.

Here's an image I found on the internet, they may be different depending on year made, bolt pattern etc but you get the idea.

still follow the chart

some 18s have the embossing by the hub.

if they dont, last ditch is to weight them.

flowchart still werkz ;)

well... knockoffs burn your eyes...

valve stem and cap. Should have "RAYS" engrave on cap. Authentic Rays sticker, real one does not flake off