Possible set of competition soft compound tires?
 

Ok guys, I admit that I've always wanted a set of say Toyo R888s on the car for Summer and yes I've spent hours searching around the internet and this site, but still have questions.

I understand a lot about tire sizing, offsets, etc., but I am a "NOOB" regarding these different type of tires and realize that some of these soft compound comp. (DOT) type of tires can have a wider actual tread as compared to the typical street tires of same size. Maybe I'm crazy, but I think that the right fit of comp. tires (the perfect model) would look good and be fun to have during the hot Summers here. I know that some of these comp. tires have bulkier shoulders and sidewalls and may be too wide, rub, etc.

My current tires are front: 265/35/18, rear: 285/35/18 on 9.5" and 10.5" (+15 offset) RPF1 wheels. *The big question is can I stay with those same tire sizes F+R with some of the cool comp. model of tires and still fit? My sidewalls are basically "flush" with my fenders with one finger gap rears, 1.5 finger gap fronts. The pics may not be the best, but hopefully some of you guys will understand what I'm rambling about. If I end up getting the correct tires that will work with my black rpf1s I'd just get the new tires mounted on them OR possibly get a tire/wheel combo as an extra set for Summer, one for Winter. I'd get new rpf1s in those same sizes (or different offsets/or widths), but could wait until Fall before getting new wheels.

Some models I've looked at are: Toyo R888, Kumho Ecsta V720 ACR, Nitto NT05 + NT01, Mickey Thompson ET street racing radials. *Any suggestions as to brands/models as well as the tire sizes that would work would be appreciated! I know that there are plenty more models of comp. tires out there that are street legal, so again suggestions welcome. Oh and one more question: If a given comp. tire is too wide could I go like from my 285 rears to say 275 if room is needed? I could go with a different offset on any new wheels also. Hope I didn't put ya' to sleep with this! :icon38

As an example here is a link for the R888s: https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...SAAEgKppPD_BwE

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Ecsta+V720+ACR

https://www.tirebuyer.com/tires/nitt.../p/tv154000075



Top view rear; pic doesn't show very well, but sidewall is pretty much flush:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....1d72a825fe.png

Rear, 1 finger gap:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....bd2b0ca6f2.png
Front sidewall is basically flush like rears:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c0bb3aa2a3.png

First off, don't even consider running a true R-compound tire on the street. Tires like the BFGoodrich R1S, Hoosier R7/A7, etc are much too soft to be run on a hot day where they would likely be heat cycled out or the 4/32 of tread wiped out. Tires like the Toyo R888 or Nitto NT01 are a bit harder and might OK for short runs on the street.

And you are CRAZY to be worried about whether R-compound tires will look flush on your Z. R-compounds should be considered as specialized tools for racing, nothing more. To be concerned about any kind of aesthetics is a bit loony...

An R888, RE71r, or NT01 will all run slightly wider that what you have in those pictures in similar sizing. Those to me look like how a 275/35 RE71 fits.

Id be looking to the RE71R if I were you. Anything softer like the NT01 is not really meant to be a street tire, and even the RE71s are borderline. Even though they look aggressive, the r888 has never been the tire to have.

Thanks for the input dkmura, Yeah I'm not so concerned about them being flush like street tires, just whether I'd find the right model of tire that would fit well and not have rubbing problems. The pics were meant to be a reference as to my current tire sizes. *I hope that your health is much better now and that you are doing well.

The RE71R is a nice looking tire with good specs. Looks like some reviews of it say it's a great tire for track events and street.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Potenza+RE-71R

I personally went with the RE71rs for my track set.

All of the research showed me it was the tire I was looking for. What solidified my purchase was the Nissan series I wanted to compete in, had a ban on the RE71’s. I thought possibly for safety concerns. But after contacting the director of the event they told me the RE71’s weren’t banned for safety. But banned for being too dam good on the track. And anyone running them would be subject to a class jump to keep it focused on skill not gear.

Being that I’m already running 10.5’s and 2x the stock hp I’m already going to be shoved into the GTR class lol

If a tire is banned by name from a race event for being too dam good. That’s all I need to hear.

I second not wasting R compounds on the street. At $350 a pop I wouldn’t waste them. A normal summer commute would probably hear cycle them and toast them fast.

Yup that’s exactly the stance on my RE71r’s on my 10.5 +15 RPF1’s.

I ran 275/35r18 to get that same “stance”.

Randy, WHAT are you trying to accomplish with DOT-Rs?

Honestly, I think it's a waste of money to run R-compound tires on the street given both both the state of the art on Extreme Performance tires and the relative cost once you factor in the high rate of wear and need for replacement of Rs.

I once ran Yokohama A001Rs on one of my S30s on the street..... quickest $600 wasted ever! (This was probably 35 years ago when $600 was a princely sum!) Had I been doing Solo 1 (now "known" as "time attack"), these would have been fine but none such, as I just slogged 'em on the street and they were done in under 10k, if that.

NOT to mention what you need to do to your suspension settings to make R-compound (essentially street slicks) work properly and the altering of your driving style to push 'em as hard as they need to be pushed to work properly.

All in all, IMO, there's no place for R-compounds on the street.

Thanks for the good input guys, I was just interested in something not full race compound, kind of in-between track and dedicated street tire/s. I've learned quite a bit from your comments and my continued reading about specs and applications (looks like track use only) of these type of tires and it doesn't sound practical to me now.

The RE71r's at least have a 200 rated tread wear and are closer to what I was thinking about after reading the company's own testing in various categories. In my mind I was thinking that it would be kind of cool to have some real grippy summer tires (now that the Z is over 400 rwhp) and be able to swap the street tires back on each Fall.

I really like my Sumitomo HTRZ3 tires and highly recommend them; can't beat them for the price but have had some wheel spin on shifts now even into 3rd gear at WOT.

Again thanks for the good input; I was just exploring a "realm" that I obviously don't know much about, just sounded interesting. Well, I guess that I will be hanging on to my $$!

My .02 is that if it a summer fun set there is nothing wrong with running a RS4 or a RE71R on the street. Fun well worth its weight in gold. You should do it, esp since you are FI. Its just $$ anyway lol...

Just watch out, youll never want to run a "regular" tire again.

There's a road course (HPR) just east of Denver that won't allow me to run my Roadster (OEM protection not acceptable - insurance - risk). If they would, I'd slap some 245 and 275 NT01's on my existing wheel-set, take a week off, pay the track fees, go burn em' up and then throw the carcasses away. Cheaper than a coke habit and no attorney fees.

[safely] Hammerin' canyons and highways in UT, WY, CO, northern AZ, southern ID or the Dakota's stay on my list but...don't need DOT compliant rubber to enjoy that as you know.

I race at HPR several times during the year. But I wouldn't bother using R-compounds outside of the track. Why? Beyond cost, it takes time to build up experience to use them properly. The first heat cycle is always best to use for qualifying. Five laps only. The first two laps are done as smoothly as possible, no sliding or power drifts, just smooth application of power, brakes and rev-matched shifts. You get one lap, maybe two to use every inch of track and set your best qualifying time. Then one lap to cool down and bring the car back to the pits. Put the car up on jackstands and allow the tires to cool down overnight.

They'll be good to use for one or two races after that, but the so-called "magical lap" will usually be gone; that few tenths of a second that make the difference between pole and starting further back. Hopefully, you were under the lap record! But I could never drive that way on a public roadways. Even if I know the layout of the canyon or highway, there's no way to take those kind of risks outside of a closed road circuit.

Thanks for the info. dkmura. I hope that your health is good and that you are feeling much better these days!

Thanks again, BigBlue. Recovered and ready to start the race season.

So great to hear! :thumbup:

** Oh, and
"if" you need any advice on which tires to use on any track day just ask and I'll help get you dialed in hehe!