what exactly is the stillen box?

i wasnt aware that stillen made any special intake

 

Isn't it this thing:

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...odel=G35%202DR

 

So, how's some good ole' dyno testing considered BS? Rob's test is legit. Did you even look at the link? He paid out of pocket to bring some solid research to the VQ community. Where's your contribution?

I've seen your posts in a few threads now, and it's clear that you really don't know anything. You base your ASSumptions on dumb things, like how an exhaust sounds. Buying exhausts and posting dumb $hit doesn't mean you're knowledgeable, or "anybody", it just means you have a lot of free time

 

why not just get a drop in k&n filter?

 

So the ECU was in learning mode for each of the dyno modes? So what were you actually trying to test.

You did prove the ECU works best in learning mode with the OEM intake.

 

Ask Rob, I didn't do the test. He reset the ECU before each run as part of a uniform testing procedure. What would've you done differently? Sounds like nit picking to me...

It's just one test. If you really want to, you can do your own.

 

Running the ECU in its learning mode sets it to stock parameters where yes stock will perform the best. These ECU's do learn and in around 60 miles, will do what they need to do for the extra air taken in by an aftermarket intake.

For normal results, each intake would need an ECU reset then driven for 60 miles then dyno'ed. Kinda throw off part of the test.

For best results, a tune for each intake would need to be done. That would be optimal, cause the factory ECU can not usually set itself best for the aftermarket parts.

Last, intake is only part of the equation. Exhaust, cams etc etc can also make one intake better or worse than another.

 

let's see sedans da response to this.

 

well everyone has their own opinion on how the test should have been done but no one else would do it. Don't btch about my test, when you didn't contribute to it.

nothing wrong with dynoing in learning mode, the ECU is constantly adjusting to match the A/F ratios programed in by adjusting fuel.

Had I driven around 60 miles then dynoed each intake, the variables (restraping, temp, humidity, different gas) would have been changed so much each time I wouldn't know what caused the gain or loss. At least keeping everything consistent I could find which performed best during my testing and my set parameters.

I tried making a thread over here asking for input, instead all I got was garbage. So many people on my350 are all talk, and will never step up to actually contribute something useful.

 

I didn't share my info here because of people like you. You are the trash that has been summarizing My350 lately. It's really sad, I used to enjoy coming here and reading. Now it's just full of so many BS posts with people who think they know everything.

Only reason I come around anymore is to read Z1's posts since he is still a valuable asset to this site.

no bromance between me and anyone. just a passion for cars and learning. You think you are a somebody? who are you to tell anyone they are a nobody? so

 

Whoa.... All over an intake dyno...

 

Basically you gave the ECU a series of tests, it required 60ish miles of study material for each test. You cut its study time to less than a mile, and it did best on with what is was preprogrammed to already know.

I believe something like this was mentioned back when you were getting ready to do your shootout.

 

You should do a test on intakes with this technique then and give everyone numbers so we'll all see. I think its pretty cool that Rob went out of his way to do this for everyone though. I don't see a reason why everyone is bashing it here. Response on Driver was way more positive.

 

Your "complaint" is complete garbage, and you know it. When doing back to back testing I'd say it's pretty standard practice to keep the car on the rollers to avoid a host of potentially confounding variables.

If your ECU learning assertion was significant, then the stock intake plenum would dyno higher than an intake plenum with a Motordyne spacer, provided that both had ECU resets done before each set of pulls, and that's just ridiculous!

The fact is that aftermarket intakes change the airflow into the MAF. Rob's test isn't the only one that supports this hypothesis.

Intakes with a filter element located close to the MAF, such as the Poop Charger, spin the air going into the MAF, and this potentially tricks the MAF into thinking that either more or less air is going into the engine than what is actually flowing into the intake tract. The ECU reacts and either dumps fuel, rich A/F ratio, or retards timing due to a "lean condition". Either way, power loss is evident. Another explanation is air separation on intakes without a velocity stack. Again, this phenomena tricks the ECU into overestimating air flow and dumping fuel which = rich A/F ratio without the need for any additional fuel, I.E. the car makes less power.

You're like a dumb puppy dog humping terrasmak's leg. Again, you have absolutely no comprehension of the concepts discussed in this thread, so do everyone a favor, and stop participating in technical discussions.

Where did you get your 60 mile figure from? Why not 100 or 200 miles?

As I mentioned in my response, it wouldn't make a difference. People dyno parts back-to-back all the time. If a part makes power, it makes power, if it doesn't, it doesn't. There are more issues with intake dynos than just an adaptation period. A MAF that overestimates airflow based on a crap intake is still going to overestimate airflow 60 miles later.

If an intake was actually providing increased air flow, not just tricking the ECU, then it would make power even after an ECU reset. It would probably make more power after an adaptation period, but the initial increase would be undeniable.

 

Agreed!

 

Cheap intake fight. I love my350z.com.

 

I made my intake out of pvc and gym socks.

I win

 

Typically its roughly 60 miles , but its actually a matter of cycles to include RPM, starts, etc etc. Starting a car strapped to a dyno and letting it rip a minute later does not give time to adjust.

So also from what your saying, no need to tune my car once i install cams. Just reset the ECU and drive, guess it will learn the new cams in matter of seconds.

BTW the filter placement of the Popcharger pretty much the same of the stock airbox.

 

I'm pretty sure the point of the Intake comparison was to show what initial gains were made(if any) prior to tuning.

If the ECU is reset prior to each intake, it will adjust accordingly as it runs. No, it won't instantaneous. But if each intake CLAIMS to increase HP by 6-10hp, you would see an increase right away. Learned ECU or not, there would be gains if they were really there.

There's truly no argument here. We all know to get any REAL gains out of bolt-ons, we need to tune our cars.

80% of the owners on here and over on G35Driver won't get their car tuned after bolt-ons.

The test was to show the "no-****" numbers that a car makes upon installation.

No intake manufacture says their gains are made after tuning. They say "direct bolt-on 7-10hp".

We all know that's not true but to those who start the countless threads about intakes who will believe anything, they can now see what happens.

Make sense?

 

I almost just want to get the titanium tube from this intake, it would look awesome with an agency power ti

http://www.racinglab.com/weapon-r-sc...-350z-001.html