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My fricking turbo
Alright guys, I’ve got a real for you all. Recently took my baby to shop to replace the throwout bearing (I know many of you have been there). When they had to remove the turbo they noticed the dreaded milky oil from the gt2835r turbo, meaning the turbo failed due to A, lack of catch can (my stupid self) and B. Too much oil in the turbo. The question posed is do I A, buy new for around $2200 B. Rebuild and have them delete the turbo for now until I can get it back or C. Sell and try to get a new one? Other question is my system completely wrecked? They got a solid amount of oil out of my intercooler. I just don’t want to drop a ton of money into this thing and job only to have more arise shortly after. Input and questions for details welcome. Also, how would deleting their turbo affect my tune? Don’t want to delete if it’ll flood my engine or make it dumb slow due to expectations and lack of execution, really worried about damage here. I do have a built top end. Appreciate you all. |
With option B, are you meaning to rebuild the engine, or the turbo? If you dont have coolant mixing in the engine, (caught early), then the only explanation would be the turbo seals have failed. The oil in intercooler is also a normal sign of this. If you do, then it is likely headgasket failure.
The tune will definitely be affected, although that depends on how it was tuned. It could still be driveable, you would need to monitor your afr closely. But it will not make the 'most' power it can. It sounds like you dont want to spend much more on this project, but there are too many unknowns. If the turbo was properly added, along with all supporting mods, just rebuild or replace the turbo. (This also depends on the engine health, and if you want to keep the turbo kit in the first place) |
a lot to sort out here...
figure out the milky oil in the turbo? Is your turbo water cooled? or have your head gaskets been breached. Is there the same milky in your engine oil? I dont know that the turbo failed due to not having a catch can? Can you explain this to me? how would the turbo all the sudden have too much oil in it? Assuming its a ball bearing turbo and assuming you are running a properly sized oil restrictor on the turbo? dont sell a broke turbo ... get a new one or rebuild it. plan on dropping a ton of money into this car or any car if you want a semi-reliable, fast, fun car ... if not, go get a honda civic You need to figure out you head gaskets ... have a compression test and a leakdown test performed. If you have bad compression and/or leakage than you need new headgaskets. how much is a solid amount of oil in the intercooler? any pictures? also above, are you running an oil feed restrictor? what are you tuning with? if you are tuning with a speed density / volumetric efficiency than your car is going to run exactly how it should as you will only be utilizing cells in your tune that are in vacuum. If you using a MAF without closed look fuel control than you shouldnt really drive the car without a retune. Without the turbo and the established perception of the car it will run very slow. |
Engine health is completely fine but I didn’t think to check the head gasket thank you. Nothing milky in there though. The turbo is water fed ball bearing and does have an oil restrictor. There was somewhere between half a quart and a quart inside the intercooler. So we’re thinking rebuild the turbo and replace gaskets? And it’s just on the stock unichip tune that APS gives. I don’t mind taking the loss in the power for a while as long deleting the turbo for now won’t cause any damage to the car itself. |
I dont know much about the unichip so I would see about a quick retune to ensure you dont do further damage or just dont drive the car. A compression and leakdown test would be smart. If you can finance a better ECU such as a piggy back haltech or Uprev, it may be a good time to upgrade.
If the compression and leakdown tests provide positive results than likely the turbo is the culprit and the milkyness is coolant mixing with oil. I would say your turbo is shot and replace it. These two fluids should not interact whatsoever and if they are you have a crack or breach where the two are interacting. I dont think a rebuild will do anything for you unless you can identify where the two fluids are leaking. But if you are losing oil from your seals than just replace the whole center section and re-use your exhaust housing and compressor housing. Is this a garrett turbo? which gaskets are you looking to replace? |
Yea it’s a GT2835R. Thank you for all the input, given me a bit to check out and narrow down. |
Never heard of a Garrett GT2835r. APS would have used either a 2871r, 2876r, 3071r or 3076r, back in the day. They had standard and extreme kits. Measure the inducer and exducer of each wheel and match up to the proper Garrett cartridge, which should only be like $700/each at atpturbo.com.
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Originally Posted by MadBoost
(Post 10981360)
Never heard of a Garrett GT2835r
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You don’t want to delete the turbo if it’s going to make you slow........ you know what turbos do right? Lol By your explanation I think you assume you can just delete the turbo and drive on the tune for boost. That’s not ganna happen. You can but you’re going to waste tons fuel and be REALLY really slow. Welcome to buying a turbo project car. They cost money. Either pony up or go back to NA for good. Gatta pay to play man. I personally would rebuild the turbo or get a new one and sell the old one. But I don’t know your financial state. I’m assuming your engine is fine and not blown and it’s just your turbo seals. i also would advise you to just buy a factory turbo car or go back to NA. It sounds like you really don’t want to take care or spend money to keep this running with this current set up but like the power. You’re going to blow your engine and have a worthless money pit if you skimp on these cars after you go boosted. Which is why I advise to get out of it now or go back to NA. It’s just going to get worse for you. If you try to cut corners and not spend money with this. |
Updates
This was a confirmed GT2835R, and now has been replaced. The head gasket was fine and the engine is within expected compression. The BOV line got messed up not allowing the boost to be relieved flooding the system. The line has been fixed, the BOV works fine now, no engine damage, and after 1.5 months waiting for another turbo to be made so it has a new turbo on there. The oil pressure regulator was replaced and I added a catch can to be on the safe side. I ordered an Osiris kit and had that tuned. Deciding on whether or not to sell the messed up one or just junk it. I appreciate all the input, feels like new.
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Another aftermarket horror story. Well good luck with whatever you choose to do. Forgive the cynical remark, but with the turbo deleted the car will still go faster than it will with it in the repair shop.
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Originally Posted by Dcb572
(Post 10989667)
This was a confirmed GT2835R, and now has been replaced. The head gasket was fine and the engine is within expected compression. The BOV line got messed up not allowing the boost to be relieved flooding the system. The line has been fixed, the BOV works fine now, no engine damage, and after 1.5 months waiting for another turbo to be made so it has a new turbo on there. The oil pressure regulator was replaced and I added a catch can to be on the safe side. I ordered an Osiris kit and had that tuned. Deciding on whether or not to sell the messed up one or just junk it. I appreciate all the input, feels like new.
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