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My fricking turbo

Old 01-12-2019, 01:53 AM
  #1  
Dcb572
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Default My fricking turbo

Alright guys, Iíve got a real for you all. Recently took my baby to shop to replace the throwout bearing (I know many of you have been there). When they had to remove the turbo they noticed the dreaded milky oil from the gt2835r turbo, meaning the turbo failed due to A, lack of catch can (my stupid self) and B. Too much oil in the turbo. The question posed is do I A, buy new for around $2200 B. Rebuild and have them delete the turbo for now until I can get it back or C. Sell and try to get a new one? Other question is my system completely wrecked? They got a solid amount of oil out of my intercooler. I just donít want to drop a ton of money into this thing and job only to have more arise shortly after. Input and questions for details welcome. Also, how would deleting their turbo affect my tune? Donít want to delete if itíll flood my engine or make it dumb slow due to expectations and lack of execution, really worried about damage here. I do have a built top end.

Appreciate you all.

Last edited by Dcb572; 01-12-2019 at 02:07 AM.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:35 AM
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Chihuahuamaster
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With option B, are you meaning to rebuild the engine, or the turbo? If you dont have coolant mixing in the engine, (caught early), then the only explanation would be the turbo seals have failed. The oil in intercooler is also a normal sign of this. If you do, then it is likely headgasket failure.

The tune will definitely be affected, although that depends on how it was tuned. It could still be driveable, you would need to monitor your afr closely. But it will not make the 'most' power it can.

It sounds like you dont want to spend much more on this project, but there are too many unknowns. If the turbo was properly added, along with all supporting mods, just rebuild or replace the turbo. (This also depends on the engine health, and if you want to keep the turbo kit in the first place)
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:40 AM
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a lot to sort out here...

figure out the milky oil in the turbo? Is your turbo water cooled? or have your head gaskets been breached. Is there the same milky in your engine oil?

I dont know that the turbo failed due to not having a catch can? Can you explain this to me?

how would the turbo all the sudden have too much oil in it? Assuming its a ball bearing turbo and assuming you are running a properly sized oil restrictor on the turbo?

dont sell a broke turbo ... get a new one or rebuild it.

plan on dropping a ton of money into this car or any car if you want a semi-reliable, fast, fun car ... if not, go get a honda civic

You need to figure out you head gaskets ... have a compression test and a leakdown test performed. If you have bad compression and/or leakage than you need new headgaskets.

how much is a solid amount of oil in the intercooler? any pictures? also above, are you running an oil feed restrictor?

what are you tuning with? if you are tuning with a speed density / volumetric efficiency than your car is going to run exactly how it should as you will only be utilizing cells in your tune that are in vacuum. If you using a MAF without closed look fuel control than you shouldnt really drive the car without a retune.

Without the turbo and the established perception of the car it will run very slow.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:36 AM
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Engine health is completely fine but I didnít think to check the head gasket thank you. Nothing milky in there though. The turbo is water fed ball bearing and does have an oil restrictor. There was somewhere between half a quart and a quart inside the intercooler. So weíre thinking rebuild the turbo and replace gaskets? And itís just on the stock unichip tune that APS gives. I donít mind taking the loss in the power for a while as long deleting the turbo for now wonít cause any damage to the car itself.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:57 AM
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I dont know much about the unichip so I would see about a quick retune to ensure you dont do further damage or just dont drive the car. A compression and leakdown test would be smart. If you can finance a better ECU such as a piggy back haltech or Uprev, it may be a good time to upgrade.

If the compression and leakdown tests provide positive results than likely the turbo is the culprit and the milkyness is coolant mixing with oil. I would say your turbo is shot and replace it. These two fluids should not interact whatsoever and if they are you have a crack or breach where the two are interacting. I dont think a rebuild will do anything for you unless you can identify where the two fluids are leaking. But if you are losing oil from your seals than just replace the whole center section and re-use your exhaust housing and compressor housing.

Is this a garrett turbo?

which gaskets are you looking to replace?
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:30 PM
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Yea itís a GT2835R. Thank you for all the input, given me a bit to check out and narrow down.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:28 PM
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Never heard of a Garrett GT2835r. APS would have used either a 2871r, 2876r, 3071r or 3076r, back in the day. They had standard and extreme kits. Measure the inducer and exducer of each wheel and match up to the proper Garrett cartridge, which should only be like $700/each at atpturbo.com.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MadBoost View Post
Never heard of a Garrett GT2835r
could have been swapped out at some point?
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