Should I get OEM rotors?
I have an 03 non brembo car. I just got some NISMO pads and want to replace my rotors as well. Whats a good aftermarket blank rotor, or should I just get OEM replacements? Whats a good place to buy OEM stuff from if I go that route?
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get stoptech slotted rotors.
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Check marketplace, they have a ton of brake solutions. I know rotorpros sells all 4 for 189 total, and you can get them slotted and drilled too...
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Are you happy with the way your brakes perform? If so, why change?
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R1 Concepts for good aftermarket
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Originally Posted by ZeroFear
(Post 8400708)
I have an 03 non brembo car. I just got some NISMO pads and want to replace my rotors as well. Whats a good aftermarket blank rotor, or should I just get OEM replacements? Whats a good place to buy OEM stuff from if I go that route?
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Originally Posted by Barnabas
(Post 8400842)
get stoptech slotted rotors.
I do not recommend drilled rotors. No braking benefit and higher risk of cracking. |
Don't buy stoptech, R1concepts 1 piece rotors. All they do is buy Centric Premium rotors for $20-30, and put useless slots / holes in them, and sell them for 400% markup. Stoptech, and R1concept rotors are just Centric Premium blank rotors.
Go to rockauto, or any other parts place that sells Centric rotors, and buy a Premium, Blank Centric rotor for $30-40 each. The part number for the Premium is 120.xxxxx. Don't buy the stardard centric rotors (Part number is 121.xxxxx) The people with the stoptech or r1concept slotted / drilled rotors just paid an extra $50 PER ROTOR for some useless slots / drilled holes. |
Originally Posted by mezer
(Post 8409076)
Don't buy stoptech, R1concepts 1 piece rotors. All they do is buy Centric Premium rotors for $20-30, and put useless slots / holes in them, and sell them for 400% markup. Stoptech, and R1concept rotors are just Centric Premium blank rotors.
Go to rockauto, or any other parts place that sells Centric rotors, and buy a Premium, Blank Centric rotor for $30-40 each. The part number for the Premium is 120.xxxxx. Don't buy the stardard centric rotors (Part number is 121.xxxxx) The people with the stoptech or r1concept slotted / drilled rotors just paid an extra $50 PER ROTOR for some useless slots / drilled holes. do you know nothing of heat dissipation?? I guess my drilled and slotted rotors on my BBK are completely worthless and wilwood had no idea what they were doing when they designed them |
uh-oh, here we go............watch out for flying shrapnel..........
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Originally Posted by Barnabas
(Post 8409517)
Useless:dunno:
do you know nothing of heat dissipation?? I guess my drilled and slotted rotors on my BBK are completely worthless and wilwood had no idea what they were doing when they designed them Do some research on slotting and drilling from a reputable brake forum. There is some merit towards the theory of slotting the rotors, but definitly not worth $50 extra per rotor for it. I bet you $1000 that if you took your slotted / drilled rotors off, and replaced them with an equal quality blank rotor, you will NOT notice any difference in your braking power, or brake fade, and you'll pull the same, if not better lap times. |
Originally Posted by Barnabas
(Post 8409517)
I guess my drilled and slotted rotors on my BBK are completely worthless and wilwood had no idea what they were doing when they designed them
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Originally Posted by mezer
(Post 8411141)
I bet you $1000 that if you took your slotted / drilled rotors off, and replaced them with an equal quality blank rotor, you will NOT notice any difference in your braking power, or brake fade, and you'll pull the same, if not better lap times.
And, I CAN tell the difference, as can most drivers that are at least somewhat sensitive under braking. PM me for an address to send the $1k. Your timing is great as I'm about to order up a new set of drilled rotors for one of the cars in the stable! Chris |
Originally Posted by Chris_B
(Post 8415000)
Read SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Paper No. 1999-01-0142 for laboratory tests performed by GM engineers that prove rotors modifications (such as drilling, slotting, J-hooks, etc.) work to improve bite. There are other tests that go into better detail, but this paper was published and presented at a professional society conference and peer reviewed -- not some "white paper" posted on a web site.
And, I CAN tell the difference, as can most drivers that are at least somewhat sensitive under braking. PM me for an address to send the $1k. Your timing is great as I'm about to order up a new set of drilled rotors for one of the cars in the stable! Chris thanks for finding the research I knew I had read it before. |
Originally Posted by Barnabas
(Post 8415315)
thanks for finding the research I knew I had read it before.
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And yes I will get better track times with my new BBK on :D
Mostly because I went FI at the same time :D lol |
LOL. You guys are funny.
Here Barnabas... right from Wilwood FAQ since you trust them so much (http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx) Q: What's the difference between slotted and drilled/slotted rotors? Which rotor will be best for my application? A: PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing. So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate" Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) |
Originally Posted by mezer
(Post 8416224)
And Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it
Besides, comparing NASCAR rotors at 2000°F (heavy car, small brakes in a 15" wheel, downforce and slicks where the rotors get thrown away after every race) to street rotors (heavy car, potentially larger brakes, no downforce and street tires with expectations the rotors must last at least x0,000 miles) that will rarely see 1200°F even with a very experienced driver is pointless. On the street is where drilling really shines. Once over 1200°F, go to slotted or maybe J-hooks if you can stand the increase in noise. Chris |
Originally Posted by Chris_B
(Post 8416392)
On the street is where drilling really shines.
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Uuuhhh, Chris B. That SAE paper you quoted was a research effort into brake squeal and noise, not pad bite.
An Investigative Overview of Automotive Disc Brake Noise Document Number: 1999-01-0142 Date Published: March 1999 Author(s): K. Brent Dunlap - Delphi Chassis Systems Michael A. Riehle - Delphi Chassis Systems Abstract: Disc brake noise continues to be a major concern throughout the automotive industry despite efforts to reduce its occurrence. As a major supplier of automotive brake components, Delphi Chassis is continually investigating means to reduce disc brake noise. In this paper, experimental and analytical methods are discussed which reduce the occurrence of automotive disc brake noise. Three general categories of brake noise are discussed. These categories are low frequency noise, low frequency squeal, and high frequency squeal. A general description of all three categories and examples of relevant solutions are presented. |
Originally Posted by betamotorsports
(Post 8427935)
Uuuhhh, Chris B. That SAE paper you quoted was a research effort into brake squeal and noise, not pad bite.
Try 2006-01-0691, titled "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" by Antanaitis and Rifici (GM). Chris |
Do you actually have these papers or are you doing a search on sae.org and then throwing some of the search results out here?
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Originally Posted by betamotorsports
(Post 8428033)
Do you actually have these papers or are you doing a search on sae.org and then throwing some of the search results out here?
Chris |
Cool. Then you would know the results of the five areas tested on four different braking systems:
1. Rotor Cooling 8 to 20% improvement in rotor temperature depending on vehicle speed, mostly on the front rotors. 2. Output Fade and Performance No difference in fade and performance except at high operating temps the linings wear faster with cross drilled rotors. 3. Wet Brake Output Cross drilled showed greater deceleration at low pedal pressures but no difference at high pedal pressures. 4. High Temp Pedal Feel More pedal travel required to achieve the same level of deceleration due to increased compliance in the pad material and cross drilled rotors. 5. Lining wear Increased across the board. |
So, is that saying that there is pretty much no point to drilling or slotting the rotors? With the exception of cooling?
I'm assuming that's for the slotting, not drilling? |
Originally Posted by mezer
(Post 8409076)
Don't buy stoptech, R1concepts 1 piece rotors. All they do is buy Centric Premium rotors for $20-30, and put useless slots / holes in them, and sell them for 400% markup. Stoptech, and R1concept rotors are just Centric Premium blank rotors.
Go to rockauto, or any other parts place that sells Centric rotors, and buy a Premium, Blank Centric rotor for $30-40 each. The part number for the Premium is 120.xxxxx. Don't buy the stardard centric rotors (Part number is 121.xxxxx) The people with the stoptech or r1concept slotted / drilled rotors just paid an extra $50 PER ROTOR for some useless slots / drilled holes. BEST KEPT SECRET! Centric Premium Rotors are top notch and used by others under another name for +$$$! BTW..other than Rock Auto (great prices)..you might wanna look here too>> Plain Premium Rotor for FRONT 2007: Less than Rock Auto! $56 vs $63 for RockAuto You can also get Slotted only here..Rock Auto only has Slotted AND Drilled Combos. http://www.theautopartsshop.com/disc...e12042080.html |
Subscribing to this thread solely to find this link in a year or so when I need to buy rotors.
I was told by a Vendor on here about two years ago that almost every manufacturer buys the same rotors, slaps their name on them, and jacks the price up. You guys could have very well made my day. :thumbup: |
^ +1
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So I'm looking at blank discs, there seems to be very little, if any reason to get slotted and no reason whatsoever to get drilled. Even racing applications won't use drilled (unless carbon/carbon composite)
EBC blanks or Centric blanks, premium, I guess? |
I'm also going to note that the 121 centric part number is for their standard C-Tec rotors, not their premium. I check the centric site and using their catalogue for the 350, the listing shows as premium, but the part number (and link) goes straight to their c-tek standard replacements.
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Originally Posted by F2CMaDMaXX
(Post 9663964)
I'm also going to note that the 121 centric part number is for their standard C-Tec rotors, not their premium. I check the centric site and using their catalogue for the 350, the listing shows as premium, but the part number (and link) goes straight to their c-tek standard replacements.
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I noticed that feature on them, looks nice, although we don't get salt here, things still rust eventually. They'd have been a God-send in England, 350z stock exhausts 'rot' off the car in about 4 years.
The EBC rotors are also good though, i'm just wondering the best between then, it's about $1-$2 difference in price on Amazon (cheapest location i found with free shipping too) Also, Centric part number for the premiums is 120.42074 - their site will allow that number to show along with the 121 number, making it appear that the 121 number is what you want, but they're just generic OE replacements. |
Originally Posted by ronn1
(Post 9663162)
^^^^^^
BEST KEPT SECRET! Centric Premium Rotors are top notch and used by others under another name for +$$$! |
Just an FYI as well, Power Slot and StopTech are divisions of Centric Parts. Classed as performance and ultra performance, respectively.
http://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-...=2BVHHU04QFXSV http://www.centricparts.com/images/s...rotors-www.jpg http://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-UPR...=2BVHHU04QFXSV http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Assets/lplainrotor-side.jpg |
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