Any other toe bolts out there besides SPC?
Hi Guys,
I am still new here, I need toe bolts for my car I am building. I searched the forum and saw the SPC toe bolts, but people said they have a small 5 degree of slip in them and move a bit during hard track use. Did they fix this issue? or are there any other brands out there that sell toe bolts for this car? I searched buy SPC is the only one that comes up. Thanks |
Heavy track use , most swap to toe arms or SPL spring bucket arms
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
(Post 10095211)
Heavy track use , most swap to toe arms or SPL spring bucket arms
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If I swap to toe arms instead, is it ok to then just leave the OEM toe bolt there and instead use the arm for adjustments?
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Please read suspension 101 on the top of this section.
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
(Post 10095397)
Please read suspension 101 on the top of this section.
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If you are going to use toe arms you should get then locking washers for your toe bolt, because your OEM washers gonna slip and screw your alignment. And yes you dont need APC toe bolts with toe arm replaced. It's covered in the suspension 101 topic.
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Your answers are covered in the suspension 101 thread.....
SPC is all I have seen out there, and as ive posted in the 101 thread they have horrible 5 degree of slip that is worthless in maintaining alignment for track car forces.... 5 degrees of SPC crap: http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...g?t=1274538469 HANDS DOWN - toe arms paired with lock out washers are the way to go - so easy to adjust - but yes, you must go to true coilovers in the rear to loose the spring in the spring bucket - OTHERWISE, then SPL's spring bucket is what you need. note the spl spring bucket only works with certain sized springs. OTHERWISE: The design error in the SPC is the "eccentric washer" itself...it obviously is a steel stamped punched part that's made with a horrible horrible tolerance and leave the 5 degrees of wiggle room....... SPC crap: https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...f-centered.jpg https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...toe-bolts1.jpg SOOOoooo, your next best bet is to just have a local machine shop machine you some "eccentrics" and use the SPC bolt only (trash the eccentrics they come with)....that's the easiest... they can just copy the eccentric, but to a tighter tolerance around the shank of the spc bolt to eliminate the 5 degree mismatch - this will end up the cheapest option.... OTHERWISE #2: If it were me, and i had to stay OEM coilovers rear, ie spring in spring bucket, then I would have a machine shop make me eccentrics that have the peak just like the OEM factory bolt - then have them machine a bolt with the V-groove in it full length... This will yield a full round bolt and not a half moon cut bolt like spc and thus the bolt will hold torque better.. OEM: https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...f-centered.jpg https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...m-toe-bolt.jpg Review post 4 here: https://my350z.com/forum/8293406-post4.html Review post 19 here: https://my350z.com/forum/8293599-post19.html -J |
Originally Posted by Staisman
(Post 10096884)
If you are going to use toe arms you should get then locking washers for your toe bolt, because your OEM washers gonna slip and screw your alignment. And yes you dont need APC toe bolts with toe arm replaced. It's covered in the suspension 101 topic.
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
(Post 10097043)
Your answers are covered in the suspension 101 thread.....
SPC is all I have seen out there, and as ive posted in the 101 thread they have horrible 5 degree of slip that is worthless in maintaining alignment for track car forces.... -J |
Want him to drive the car for you too?
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Originally Posted by Ak48z
(Post 10097199)
Want him to drive the car for you too?
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Originally Posted by etkms
(Post 10097140)
Yep, I saw you post that which is exactly why I made this thread to see if there were anything better then the SPC bolts. To me it is crazy no one else makes good ones because it is such a simple thing to make. I did go ahead and do what you also said. I ordered the SPC bolts, but I will have a local machine shop make me new washers that are snug with the bolt for no slip. My other main question is still up in the air though. Should I bother buying toe arms/traction bars even with new bolts???
NO....the arm your referring too is the #23 (radius rod): https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...suspension.jpg the only compliance in that rod is the bushing flex itself....which isnt much....its a very hard bushing..... - i would say change it out with a solid SPL type bushing IF and only if you were building a 1/4 mile monster and hard launches were important....but for anything on a road track or drifting, its not gonna matter... if you do swap it out, whatever you buy - set it to the exact length of the oem radius rod and make 110% sure that both the LH and RH side are the exact same length...hell use red loctite and ensure it never moves!! -J |
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
(Post 10098714)
NO....the arm your referring too is the #23 (radius rod):
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...suspension.jpg the only compliance in that rod is the bushing flex itself....which isnt much....its a very hard bushing..... - i would say change it out with a solid SPL type bushing IF and only if you were building a 1/4 mile monster and hard launches were important....but for anything on a road track or drifting, its not gonna matter... if you do swap it out, whatever you buy - set it to the exact length of the oem radius rod and make 110% sure that both the LH and RH side are the exact same length...hell use red loctite and ensure it never moves!! -J |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
(Post 10098714)
NO....the arm your referring too is the #23 (radius rod):
the only compliance in that rod is the bushing flex itself....which isnt much....its a very hard bushing..... - i would say change it out with a solid SPL type bushing IF and only if you were building a 1/4 mile monster and hard launches were important....but for anything on a road track or drifting, its not gonna matter... if you do swap it out, whatever you buy - set it to the exact length of the oem radius rod and make 110% sure that both the LH and RH side are the exact same length...hell use red loctite and ensure it never moves!! -J |
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