etkms

iTrader: (3)

Hi Guys,

I am still new here, I need toe bolts for my car I am building. I searched the forum and saw the SPC toe bolts, but people said they have a small 5 degree of slip in them and move a bit during hard track use. Did they fix this issue? or are there any other brands out there that sell toe bolts for this car? I searched buy SPC is the only one that comes up.

Thanks

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Heavy track use , most swap to toe arms or SPL spring bucket arms

etkms

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I would swap to toe arms but I will be using the OEM spring location for my coilovers so that won't apply. The SPL links are nice, but very pricey. I still just wanted to know if anyone else makes toe bolts?

etkms

iTrader: (3)

If I swap to toe arms instead, is it ok to then just leave the OEM toe bolt there and instead use the arm for adjustments?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Please read suspension 101 on the top of this section.

etkms

iTrader: (3)

I read 11 pages of it. I did not see my question answered. If you do know, please let me know. This is a track car, not a slammed car. I want to know if it is advisable to use toe arms as well as toe bolts, or if only one of them is enough. I am starting to think there is not much benefit to having toe arms since most people can get in spec with just toe bolts. I would prefer to know now what to buy during my build so I can install everything at once and not have to go back and fourth after an getting its alignment.

Staisman

iTrader: (13)

If you are going to use toe arms you should get then locking washers for your toe bolt, because your OEM washers gonna slip and screw your alignment. And yes you dont need APC toe bolts with toe arm replaced. It's covered in the suspension 101 topic.

misterniceguy

iTrader: (14)

Boom.

http://350zhatchshocksandmore.com/Lockout%20Washers.htm

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Your answers are covered in the suspension 101 thread.....

SPC is all I have seen out there, and as ive posted in the 101 thread they have horrible 5 degree of slip that is worthless in maintaining alignment for track car forces....
5 degrees of SPC crap:


HANDS DOWN - toe arms paired with lock out washers are the way to go - so easy to adjust - but yes, you must go to true coilovers in the rear to loose the spring in the spring bucket - OTHERWISE, then SPL's spring bucket is what you need. note the spl spring bucket only works with certain sized springs.

OTHERWISE:
The design error in the SPC is the "eccentric washer" itself...it obviously is a steel stamped punched part that's made with a horrible horrible tolerance and leave the 5 degrees of wiggle room.......

SPC crap:



SOOOoooo, your next best bet is to just have a local machine shop machine you some "eccentrics" and use the SPC bolt only (trash the eccentrics they come with)....that's the easiest... they can just copy the eccentric, but to a tighter tolerance around the shank of the spc bolt to eliminate the 5 degree mismatch - this will end up the cheapest option....

OTHERWISE #2:
If it were me, and i had to stay OEM coilovers rear, ie spring in spring bucket, then I would have a machine shop make me eccentrics that have the peak just like the OEM factory bolt - then have them machine a bolt with the V-groove in it full length...

This will yield a full round bolt and not a half moon cut bolt like spc and thus the bolt will hold torque better..

OEM:



Review post 4 here: https://my350z.com/forum/8293406-post4.html
Review post 19 here: https://my350z.com/forum/8293599-post19.html

-J

etkms

iTrader: (3)

I think your confusing the toe arms I am referring to with true "toe arms" such as the kind that replaces the spring bucket. I am talking about toe arm or "traction bars" as some call it.

etkms

iTrader: (3)

Yep, I saw you post that which is exactly why I made this thread to see if there were anything better then the SPC bolts. To me it is crazy no one else makes good ones because it is such a simple thing to make. I did go ahead and do what you also said. I ordered the SPC bolts, but I will have a local machine shop make me new washers that are snug with the bolt for no slip. My other main question is still up in the air though. Should I bother buying toe arms/traction bars even with new bolts???

Ak48z

iTrader: (2)

Want him to drive the car for you too?

etkms

iTrader: (3)

huh?????

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

NO....the arm your referring too is the #23 (radius rod):


the only compliance in that rod is the bushing flex itself....which isnt much....its a very hard bushing..... - i would say change it out with a solid SPL type bushing IF and only if you were building a 1/4 mile monster and hard launches were important....but for anything on a road track or drifting, its not gonna matter...

if you do swap it out, whatever you buy - set it to the exact length of the oem radius rod and make 110% sure that both the LH and RH side are the exact same length...hell use red loctite and ensure it never moves!!

-J

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

There is a lot of stiction in the radius arm (traction arm) bushing. Swapping it out for a Whiteline bushing would be great for most. The SPL am I have there made a feelable difference in the suspension.

etkms

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I am going to skip ordering that arm then. As far as changing the bushing, I ordered the Energy Suspension master kit, and it appears it comes with a new bushing... attached is the pdf what it has on the rear.