some pics of our bushing sets installed. This subframe has the raised bushings and diff bushings installed. Enjoy!

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...G/IMG_1804.jpg

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...G/IMG_1801.jpg

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...G/IMG_1800.jpg

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...G/IMG_1799.jpg

dont understand the raised bushing.. are they thicker or thinner than stock and how would effect handling on a lowered car?

Roll center , Google it and read.

I still want to know if the driveshaft angle change will screw anything up.

It shouldn't really matter as long as the nose of the driveshaft had enough space to go further into the transmission since this technically shallows the angle out. As long as the centerlines of the output on the transmission and the input on the differential are parrallel to begin with it shouldn't matter.

^ exactly....and im sure it does have the play, ive checked it removing the drive shafts on more than one occasion...

doing the thinner bushing on top of the subframe is more than fine....

-J

driveshaft angle is 100% not an issue. If anything the angle is better after this mod and the roll center improvement is very noticeable. The way the Z suspension is designed this is a must have if you want a well handling Z after it's lowered. Most people probably would not notice the roll center improvement on the street but for somebody that is used to pushing the car hard on the track the handling improvement is very noticeable.

Looks like i'll be getting a set of these shortly, just wish there was an easy way to improve the front roll center.

Doing so risks damaging the pinion seal though. The driveshaft is meant to sit at a certain angle and have a specific amount of fore/aft movement. Just went through this on my car. Changing the height changes this. Not saying it will cause an issue but would take a long term evaluation to know.

Everything we design and sell goes through rigorous testing above and beyond industry standards. If there was a risk of this we would not sell them. These exact bushings have been and are still on several pro drift/time attack and Grand Am cup cars that see hours and hours of abuse extremes over the course of a track day for the period of a year and a half. Don't think you can get much more long term than that without extreme overkill. Proud to report absolutely no pinion seal issues. After a season and a half we can easily guarantee they won't be the cause of an issue with pinion seals. If you are referring to say the output shaft seal on the tail of the trans, that would be effected by large amounts of movement, but the amount it moves is so small at this seal that it is practically immeasurable. If you think about it, the shaft is several feet long, move one side up .4 inches and you get next to no movement all the way at the other end. Now having said that, this is based of of our bushing sets. Don't know for sure about anyone else's because it will entirely depend on how far they move. Any other concerns, please ask away.

Sounds good Sikky.....I as well need to get some solid sub-frame bushings...
When I do, ill do write up on them with "how to"

good stuff guys......i like your site/set-up and Z products...

-J

My brother has a set of SIKKY Headers on his Lexus IS-F and the quality and sound is amazing!

Last day for free shipping on our bushing sets!!!!!!!! You won't be able to call the order in so go to our website and buy online.

direct link
http://www.sikky.com/suspension_high...nufacturer.php

I put these in mine last month and they work great. Exact copy of the SPL, 1/2 price.

Ok guys, so I had the diff lowered and the old bushing pressed out and the new bushings pressed in. The new SPL subframe bushing was in the freezer for a bit, and when we pressed it in, it went in VERY easily. No aluminum shavings or anything. Heres some pics....

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/4274/imag0057g.jpg
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/565/imag0055q.jpg
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/3070/imag0058b.jpg
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4396/imag0059a.jpg

Everything went pretty smooth....but there was something that concerned me and I wanted to post pics for you guys to see what I'm talking about. When I was removing the bushings from the differential ears, the passenger side was very firmly in place and needed a few good pounds with a mallet to remove. Now the drivers side was NOT in there as firm as the passenger side, it literally FLEW off the diff. with 1 whack with the mallet. I was very surprised at this, and then I realized that the drivers side bushing is completely different than the passenger side. I had my differential replaced under warranty before, and I am now questioning whether they used a bushing which was not meant for my car, or they are supposed to be different for a reason? If they are NOT supposed to be different, do you think having 2 different bushings could have caused additional stress on that rear subframe bushing, or any stress on anything else? Here are the pics. The drivers side is the smaller bushing on the left
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6509/imag0060b.jpg
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/5518/imag0071uz.jpg
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3723/imag0070s.jpg
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/9575/imag0069zo.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9674/imag0073q.jpg

^ those are the oem bushings...

they are different on purpose...one is filled with silicone and one is solid rubber...they are like this to handle the moment induced off having a single stud off the rear diff cover...previous Nissan cars had two diff studs, the Z has 1 diff stud off the centerline of the drive train so a moment/torque is induced...

This helps compensate for that......all for NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness)..

I mention this in other diff threads....

Yes pounding them out is easier on the smaller one as it has a metal "lip" that lets a socket sit on it easier....so hitting that one out is way easier...the other requires more of the "right sized" socket to fit over it and can take more time to pound it out on top of it being bigger/taller...

-J

From this pic:
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/4274/imag0057g.jpg

It looks like you used the "big franksocket" long bolt method?? Curious as to the RED cylinder you used???

Any more pics of your rig/set up??

Im not surprised with it going in super easy...like i mention in post 12 of my DIY for the subframe bushing thread, it took us like 10 seconds to get it in! was freakishly easy!

-J

Best you can do is mark it with a marker and check to see if it ever spins/moves...
https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....1&d=1294769310

The hoop stress on a solid aluminum like that is great...heat expansion etc.......it will be fine!

-J