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yeah...I have to echo fairlady Z's feelings.
12K spent on a car that now has NO warrantee is really ridiculous. My approach to modding is simple - buy a new car! I really wanted to supercharge my honda prelude - rather I bought a Z. Hopefully, by the time my Z lease is up, the Skyline GTR or 350ZTT will be out. Its impossible that those cars will be $12K more than a touring Z. What I really want to do however is buy a piece of history, did you know you can get a ferrari 355 for under $60K? Thats what I have my eyes on now...If I'm gonna throw money away on a car...I'll do it the right way! |
Damn guys. If you wanna get on your soap box go start your own thread and stop trying to jack this one.
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Originally posted by qirex yeah...I have to echo fairlady Z's feelings. 12K spent on a car that now has NO warrantee is really ridiculous. My approach to modding is simple - buy a new car! I really wanted to supercharge my honda prelude - rather I bought a Z. Hopefully, by the time my Z lease is up, the Skyline GTR or 350ZTT will be out. Its impossible that those cars will be $12K more than a touring Z. What I really want to do however is buy a piece of history, did you know you can get a ferrari 355 for under $60K? Thats what I have my eyes on now...If I'm gonna throw money away on a car...I'll do it the right way! Check out his website: http://hometown.aol.com/wa2fst/home.htm The blue vette on the left is being "twin turbo" as we speak. He is doing stage 3 turbos, so if he ever wants to he can drop a 427 in.:icon11: |
Almost forgot the best part you need. Blow off valve! AFAIK the kit doesn't come with one. You'll need to buy a flange from GReddy and have it welded on too. It's obviously best to do this before install.
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I'm not going to be getting a kit anytime soon, but I'm wondering, is any welding required to install the GReddy TT kit? I'm guessing there is, at least to connect a line to feed oil to the turbos. Also, does it come with instructions? Whenever I get the kit, which will probably be quite a few years from now, I'd like to do it myself.
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The only welding should be the flange for the BOV to the charge pipe. The oil return line, if anything like other kits should just be a hole drilled in the oil pan with a flange bolted onto it. The instructions will probably suck but with help from everyone here it shouldn't be a problem to do it your self.
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An oil pan in included with the Greddy kit that has the oil feed already ready to put a hose on.
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Re: Cost of installing Greddy TT
Originally posted by bruschijr Hey all, i think its my second post.... just wanted to know if anyone knows or has a relative idea on how much it would cost to get the greddy TT kit installed. I looked at one thread and someone said $1000, does this seem like a good estimate? I have saved up enough to get the kit after Christmas, never had a turbo, so i dont know what I'm in for, i know how they work, fly a twin-turbo Cessna 320, i guess its closely related... But I LOVE my car, and I think it deserves it! I'm hoping that price is reasonable... if its more than $1500 i'll have to wait till March:( Please let me know some general estimates...even if you had a TT kit installed on a previous car, thanks As for install, call around and ask. SPI Power Excel is a good place to look into; they do top-flight work, but don't be surprised if your turbo kit install runs close to $3000. ATX Motorsports is another very good shop not too far away. |
Originally posted by 350Now An oil pan in included with the Greddy kit that has the oil feed already ready to put a hose on. |
If it is going to take about 20 hours for the install... Might as well put cams and P&P the heads. As I understand, porting a turbo'd motor allows more horsepower under lower boost levels. Is this correct? Like running 350 hp @ 2psi with p&p, as opposed to 350hp @ 7 regular. Of course P&P would cost alot, and I think anyone with some good mechanical abilities could probably do it. The only thing that scares me is tapping the oil pan. :p
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Port and polish isn't as effective in a FI engine as an NA engine. The money spent on that would be better spent on other things.
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Reading this thread has made me realize one thing - unless I buy a Z and intend to keep it for a very very very long time and consider it a project car, I won't be doing much to it beyond wheels and a few nismo like bolt on parts. $14k????? That's a lot of coin. Something in my "is it worth it" conscience wondering whether I could pull the trigger on paying roughly 50% of the price of the car to add power that I'll never truly be able to use. And that $14k doesn't even include the upgraded brakes I'm sure one would need to haul the Z back down to the speed limit. Tack on another $2k or so for that... There's gotta be a better way to go about this.
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Have a Track model, no brake upgrade needed other than slotted rotors if I wanna look cool.
As for the 14k, that is NOT install cost...labor cost is $1000 (12.5 hours). Here is a little insight: $6500 - GReddy w/ intercooler $1000 - install $6500 - upgraded parts: different ecu (no emanage) fuel pump heat wrap clutch full gauges dyno tuning plus alot of other stuff i can't remember right now (have it all written down at home). I kinda validate it like this ... a 1996 TT 300zx would have cost about $44k new ... well, due to VPP, I saved a bundle on my Z, add the $14k, I spent the same amount as a 1996 300zx TT buyer did. |
A nice fat 3 inch cat-back (your correct in your assumption) exhaust reduces back pressure which helps reduce heat build up. It also helps the turbo spool faster. I can see how a fatter exhaust will reduce your temp and produce bigger horsepower numbers... But how does it allow the turbo to spool faster? This goes against the laws of Thermodynamics. You are pushing the same amount of spent gases through a larger diameter pipe. Hence the flow of the gas does not need to be as rapid for a comparable volume in a smaller diameter pipe. This is one of the reasons the gas from a smaller pipe becomes hotter. I'm not refuting the statement... I'd just like a knowledgable explanation of how the turbo manages to spool faster since it seems counterintuitive to what I know about fluid (liquid or gas) dynamics. |
Less resistance. The downpipe is after the turbo. The turbo is propelled by gasses ahead of it.
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mcduck:
As you probably know the larger diameter exhaust reduces back pressure. The reduced back pressure allows exhaust exiting through the impellar side of the turbo to do so faster, Thus allowing the turbo to spool up to sooner. |
With aircooled turbo VW's we always ran small diameter before and large after. Smaller before the impeller forces the gasses to move faster and stay hot. While the larger diameter after allow the gasses to exit with less backpressure. We also had to use a ton of heat wrap to keep things cool in the engine bay.
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