same here I've done it 6 times so far and I guess it's easy enough to get if you even consider doing it yourself...
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 435446
am I f'd up in saying that the only way to take the headers off (without removing the block) is with the front end coming off?? |
I never removed the block or removed anything from the front, you can do everything from the top and the bottom of the car
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Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10137365)
am I f'd up in saying that the only way to take the headers off (without removing the block) is with the front end coming off??
Glad I could amuse you with my thought. Your photo amused me as well. That looks like a ton of unnecessary work. Kudos for effort though. |
Originally Posted by Classy
(Post 10137404)
I never removed the block or removed anything from the front, you can do everything from the top and the bottom of the car
Originally Posted by 03trackdz
(Post 10137615)
That looks like a ton of unnecessary work
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I haven't really done anything mechanical with a 350z in about 2 years, right about now is when I finished my NA build... Anyway, you need to remove your intake,you need to drain your coolant, you need to remove the coolant hard lines on both sides of the motor, the passenger side one has an Oring seal and a bolt holding it on in the back, jack the front end up as high as you feel safe with, remove the heat shields on the manifolds, remove the 2 bolts on each pipe connecting the cat back to the cat pipes, remove the 3 nuts on each cat pipe connecting to the manifold, twist and pull the cat out on each side, make sure to disconnect the O2 sensors, then remove the 12 nuts on each side holding the manifolds on, I was able to do it by using a deep well socket whatever size it was, pull out the manifolds and take a breath of fresh air being half way done. Now it I am giving this DIY on a long tube installation since it is way harder. The reason why I say to lift the front end as high as you feel safe with is because it will help ALOT! When trying to maneuver them in. Go from the bottom and slowly work them in and pay attention to where you are hanging up on. A helpful shove has helped push them past the steering shaft. Reinstall your sensors (I say do this after they are in so you don't damage them. Also, if you are doing long tubes, then you will need to make slack in your harness to make the rear O2 sensors reach. Bolt it all back up and let her rip, I drove my 350z without a tune for a few months and please don't make my mistake, I got lucky but I was running very lean.
I am sure this isn't as descriptive as you are looking for, but unless I was there to help or get paid to do it, I can't really remember off hand what else |
You basically just repeated the DIY that's on here except for the steering column, haha.
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Just means that other guy (bealljk) really didn't search...
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Originally Posted by KingBaby
(Post 10138099)
Just means that other guy (bealljk) really didn't search...
if the OP and Classy want to install headers from leaning over the engine and jacking the car up and doing the work from the underside than more power to them… |
Pics of revamped front end...
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You understand how big of a PIA it is to remove the core support, power steering cooler, radiator and ac condenser? ****, just pay me $1000!
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Originally Posted by Classy
(Post 10138285)
You understand how big of a PIA it is to remove the core support, power steering cooler, radiator and ac condenser? !
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Originally Posted by WTFMike
(Post 10138293)
I didn't find it too hard or time consuming. I had the whole front end apart in 2 hours of just spinning wrenches, with zero BSing. But, I was also pulling the motor to have it built. So, the whole front end had to come off anyway.
revamped front end…post #53 https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-2.html |
^^^
Both you guys are just playing devil's advocate...lol If you know what your doing, we can all agree its not that hard at all. |
put your dicks away this pissing match is over! always wanted to say that after the movie
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Originally Posted by 03trackdz
(Post 10136003)
Thanks for the tip.
The used 370's were dirt cheap (I didn't buy from Z1, just quoting them as a reference); test pipes, whether DE or HR are cheap and are actually designed for my motor?; modification is moving 4 studs total. Spending maybe $200 total versus between $700-1000 for new pieces which will probably yield similar results sounds reasonable to me. $250 - New OEM HR Headers (no shields) $200 - New Res TPs $230 - Swain Coat headers $135 - Swain Coat TPs $175 - HR mani gaskets, Z1 flange gasket, xtra lock nuts and studs $450 - 4-5hr shop labor. |
Without labor, that's $990. Might as well have gotten PPE headers for 1300, which come Jet Hot coated and make more power...
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Originally Posted by bmyles
(Post 10141383)
Without labor, that's $990. Might as well have gotten PPE headers for 1300, which come Jet Hot coated and make more power...
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For anyone that needs quality headers.
I have a set of Jet hot coated Crawfords in the marketplace. |
I'm halfway done and I have a great tip: don't do it!
I expected it to take a while, but there are a lot of snags that get me so pissed off, wasting hours on stupid sh*t. Hopefully get the passenger side off soon... |
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