MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion

MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion (https://my350z.com/forum/)
-   Engine & Drivetrain (https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain-50/)
-   -   VQ Header Swap Tricks? (https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/579176-vq-header-swap-tricks.html)

KingBaby 05-31-2013 02:21 PM

same here I've done it 6 times so far and I guess it's easy enough to get if you even consider doing it yourself...

bealljk 05-31-2013 02:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 435446

am I f'd up in saying that the only way to take the headers off (without removing the block) is with the front end coming off??

Classy 05-31-2013 03:24 PM

I never removed the block or removed anything from the front, you can do everything from the top and the bottom of the car

03trackdz 05-31-2013 08:55 PM


Originally Posted by bealljk (Post 10137365)
am I f'd up in saying that the only way to take the headers off (without removing the block) is with the front end coming off??

Apparently, because it's clearly not the only way.

Glad I could amuse you with my thought. Your photo amused me as well. That looks like a ton of unnecessary work. Kudos for effort though.

bealljk 05-31-2013 10:19 PM


Originally Posted by Classy (Post 10137404)
I never removed the block or removed anything from the front, you can do everything from the top and the bottom of the car

Enlighten me, I'm curious, give me a paragraph or two on how you do this?



Originally Posted by 03trackdz (Post 10137615)
That looks like a ton of unnecessary work

turbo install, call it a labor of love - it's not a daily so I don't have to have it done over a weekend…I've got a thread going somewhere here...

Classy 06-01-2013 04:40 AM

I haven't really done anything mechanical with a 350z in about 2 years, right about now is when I finished my NA build... Anyway, you need to remove your intake,you need to drain your coolant, you need to remove the coolant hard lines on both sides of the motor, the passenger side one has an Oring seal and a bolt holding it on in the back, jack the front end up as high as you feel safe with, remove the heat shields on the manifolds, remove the 2 bolts on each pipe connecting the cat back to the cat pipes, remove the 3 nuts on each cat pipe connecting to the manifold, twist and pull the cat out on each side, make sure to disconnect the O2 sensors, then remove the 12 nuts on each side holding the manifolds on, I was able to do it by using a deep well socket whatever size it was, pull out the manifolds and take a breath of fresh air being half way done. Now it I am giving this DIY on a long tube installation since it is way harder. The reason why I say to lift the front end as high as you feel safe with is because it will help ALOT! When trying to maneuver them in. Go from the bottom and slowly work them in and pay attention to where you are hanging up on. A helpful shove has helped push them past the steering shaft. Reinstall your sensors (I say do this after they are in so you don't damage them. Also, if you are doing long tubes, then you will need to make slack in your harness to make the rear O2 sensors reach. Bolt it all back up and let her rip, I drove my 350z without a tune for a few months and please don't make my mistake, I got lucky but I was running very lean.

I am sure this isn't as descriptive as you are looking for, but unless I was there to help or get paid to do it, I can't really remember off hand what else

bmyles 06-01-2013 03:42 PM

You basically just repeated the DIY that's on here except for the steering column, haha.

KingBaby 06-01-2013 06:24 PM

Just means that other guy (bealljk) really didn't search...

bealljk 06-01-2013 07:10 PM


Originally Posted by KingBaby (Post 10138099)
Just means that other guy (bealljk) really didn't search...

nope, didnt search cause I didnt care…no way in hell I was going to remove my stillen headers and install the turbs without pulling the block or taking the front end off…seeing that I am revamping my front end it only made logical sense to take the front end off…

if the OP and Classy want to install headers from leaning over the engine and jacking the car up and doing the work from the underside than more power to them…

KingBaby 06-02-2013 12:52 AM

Pics of revamped front end...

Classy 06-02-2013 06:36 AM

You understand how big of a PIA it is to remove the core support, power steering cooler, radiator and ac condenser? ****, just pay me $1000!

WTFMike 06-02-2013 06:54 AM


Originally Posted by Classy (Post 10138285)
You understand how big of a PIA it is to remove the core support, power steering cooler, radiator and ac condenser? !

I didn't find it too hard or time consuming. I had the whole front end apart in 2 hours of just spinning wrenches, with zero BSing. But, I was also pulling the motor to have it built. So, the whole front end had to come off anyway.

bealljk 06-02-2013 07:29 AM


Originally Posted by WTFMike (Post 10138293)
I didn't find it too hard or time consuming. I had the whole front end apart in 2 hours of just spinning wrenches, with zero BSing. But, I was also pulling the motor to have it built. So, the whole front end had to come off anyway.

Ha!! I didnt find it that hard either…

revamped front end…post #53
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-2.html

KingBaby 06-02-2013 09:09 AM

^^^

Both you guys are just playing devil's advocate...lol

If you know what your doing, we can all agree its not that hard at all.

chuquison 06-03-2013 07:37 AM

put your dicks away this pissing match is over! always wanted to say that after the movie

Old Rice 06-05-2013 08:25 AM


Originally Posted by 03trackdz (Post 10136003)
Thanks for the tip.

The used 370's were dirt cheap (I didn't buy from Z1, just quoting them as a reference); test pipes, whether DE or HR are cheap and are actually designed for my motor?; modification is moving 4 studs total. Spending maybe $200 total versus between $700-1000 for new pieces which will probably yield similar results sounds reasonable to me.

I did this and is a good play for a weak stock cammed non-rev DE. For reference here is what I got for my money...

$250 - New OEM HR Headers (no shields)
$200 - New Res TPs
$230 - Swain Coat headers
$135 - Swain Coat TPs
$175 - HR mani gaskets, Z1 flange gasket, xtra lock nuts and studs
$450 - 4-5hr shop labor.

bmyles 06-05-2013 03:40 PM

Without labor, that's $990. Might as well have gotten PPE headers for 1300, which come Jet Hot coated and make more power...

Old Rice 06-05-2013 05:00 PM


Originally Posted by bmyles (Post 10141383)
Without labor, that's $990. Might as well have gotten PPE headers for 1300, which come Jet Hot coated and make more power...

I respectfully disagree. I have yet to see any dyno proof that lth perform any better than shorties+tps on non-rev 238i/240e stock cam profile. Sgm lth only put out 11whp NA on nonrev DE. Shorties with cat deletes will perform similar. HR, VHR, Revup....yeah different story. Also Swain coating much much better than jethot. I can actually touch the headers at idle after running. For nonrev this is the most cost effective route aside from not doing headers and keeps the option to meet emissions if necessary. I only did headers for improved exhaust volume dump on nitrous. If NA stock engine only I wouldn't bother.

e30cabrio 06-05-2013 05:22 PM

For anyone that needs quality headers.

I have a set of Jet hot coated Crawfords in the marketplace.

bmyles 06-07-2013 04:55 AM

I'm halfway done and I have a great tip: don't do it!

I expected it to take a while, but there are a lot of snags that get me so pissed off, wasting hours on stupid sh*t. Hopefully get the passenger side off soon...


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:42 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands