VQ Header Swap Tricks?
 

At some point in the future my DE will be losing the manifolds and either receiving OEM 370z headers or an SS set. I know this process is a painful one, but I was wondering if anyone had thought about, or had, drilled a few small access holes (extension size) through the wheel well to access the header bolts more easily? I am trying to think of a quicker way to swap in and out (which may not exist). The engine needs to stay in the bay, BTW.

First thing to.make it easier is you want to look more into the available parts prices gains etc. Second search more on DIY BC they are here on the forum. Third search more

I have a set of 370z headers that will probably be going on; so to #1, I've decided I might as well swap out the manifolds to a set of better flowing headers (even mild steel ones) for better mid-range; to #2 and #3, I have searched and all I see (between this forum and others) are complaints as to the time consumption (warranted and understood) and swapping the middle two studs to make HR/370 headers fit the DE heads.

My question has to do with something I have not seen mentioned anywhere: drilling access holes for extensions to make the swap faster (I would assume those who track their cars and have to perform constant maintenance have considered something of the sort). That is the only question I really have.

Any help there?

There is a very well-written How-To in the DIY section. You didn't search well enough. And I haven't heard of anyone drilling access holes. It's completely unnecessary.

...

Thanks for the input.

After re-reading through the three DIY tagged threads on related header installation, I haven't come up with anything beyond something along the lines of: "This was a pain, I scraped every piece of skin from my arms...", etc. Sure, one had a detailed step by step list of the procedure, which is straight forward, but that's not what I was asking.

Based on the various comments by people who have done headers, there are no real "tricks." Having the right tools and knowing how to use them is the biggest trick I can think of.

Tell you what, I plan on doing header swap next weekend. If all goes well, I'll tell you if I found anything out, which I doubt because I'm going to be following the How-To...

No one else is wondering how the 370z headers are going to bolt right on DE?

bmyles, thanks and I hope everything goes smoothly with your install, or as smoothly as it possibly can.

04blackz, HR and 370z headers are nearly identical; they require swapping the two center studs into alternate, already existing, threads in the DE head. Z1 specifically sells OEM 370 headers as near bolt on alternatives to more expensive aftermarkets, for DE's. They require 370 testpipes/cats to work with DE exhaust (just like HR header swaps to DE's).

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5309

Two set of tools and friends!

I did an install on two cars in one day out of my own garage!

Tips:
Jack the car up as high as you can.
Remove coolant lines
Ratchet wrenches
Patience

If you got all that down you should be able to remove the OEM stock in about 3-4 hours that's with ********ting around and taking breaks. The new parts should tak another 2-3, most the time is taking tighten bolts...very tedious process

So your plan is a USED set of STOCK headers? Then HR test pipes which are more expensive then DE pipes. Plus modification to make everything fit?

My tip is don't be cheap buy parts that are 100% bolt on and designed for your engine

Thanks for the tip.

The used 370's were dirt cheap (I didn't buy from Z1, just quoting them as a reference); test pipes, whether DE or HR are cheap and are actually designed for my motor?; modification is moving 4 studs total. Spending maybe $200 total versus between $700-1000 for new pieces which will probably yield similar results sounds reasonable to me. You don't have to.

Anywho, the question I had has been answered with a more or less negative (concerning access holes). I may or may not try them; if I do, I will post pics and results. Thanks to everyone so far for the feedback.

Don't cut a hole in your fenderwell period. You're going to spend more time trying to figure out where to cut.

My tip is to pull the motor. It makes the header install a breeze.

I have done headers on my old G35 (Megan shorties) and on my 350z 2 times (OBX long tubes) and long tubes are alot more challenging, and to be honest, alot of these DIY's say to lift the engine off the mounts and to remove or loosen the steering shaft, but I found that neither really needs to happen. You do however need to remove the hard coolant likes for access. I do suggest draining the coolant and raising the front end as safely possible. The more clearance, the more room you have to manuver the headers. Patients and deep well sockets with plenty of attachments will be your friend, I did 2 of these in a parking lot! Give about 14-18 hours of work for your first time. Did my last one in 10!

Screw that! I would rather lay on my back and get it done than pull a VQ again

+1

My tip is don't take short cuts…if you don't want to take the engine out than be prepared to take the front end off.

why on gods-green-earth would you EVER drill holes in your chassis? really? that did make me laugh though...

WHAT? Why would you need to take your front end off to put headers on? It seems there is alot of miss information these days on this forum

^^^

I guess without good picture DIY write ups, words are left to interpretation & assumption.


That's outstanding!

The 350z community is one of the few that don't have great DIY's, I don't Trudy understand why but it is what it is... I actually really meant do a DIY for the last long tube install I did, but just kinda got wrapped up into doing it...