Help! Car won't start or crank
Hey guys so I can't figure out why my 2003 350z won't start or crank, first thought it was the battery so I went and got it tested at orielly and they said the battery tested low but they charged it up and tested it and said it was good, came home and still nothing, then I went about replacing the clutch safety switch thinking it was that but still nothing, I replaced my alternator 6 months ago so it can't be my alternator and I also thought it had to do with the security system and i don't think its that either because the blinking light goes away as soon as I put the car in the on position, I also checked all my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay next to the battery and all fuses are good, also it's not my fuel pump either because I can hear my fuel pump prime when I turn the key in the on position. idk what it could be at this point! And if this helps I had noticed for a few days the car would kinda lag before starting like it would sound like it would have trouble starting but it would start up so I'm not sure if that's related but I didn't think anything of it until now. Please help!
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Originally Posted by travlee
(Post 10659742)
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Perhaps all the electric connections should be looked at, fuses also.
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Time for a new starter... But just to be sure push start that bad boy.
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You could also have someone tap on it (the starter) while you try starting it. Make sure the person in the car doesnt run you over. Chalk the wheels. On second thought just push start it.
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Dirty cables? You could be getting enough power to prime/light, but it might not be getting enough to turn.
Clean the posts and cables: sand, then wash with warm water and baking soda and try again. Try cheap fixes before throwing parts at it. |
If it starts with a jump then its the battery.
Id you get a single clicking noise when started, probably a starter. Rapid clicking noise usually a battery. |
You can get a single click with dirty contacts too.
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Originally Posted by Syner
(Post 10659933)
You can get a single click with dirty contacts too.
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My money is on the starter...
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what about your body control module? when you go to start the car does the security light stay on? I had a key go south on me and the bcm wouldn't let that key start the car. had to cut a new one for like 45 bucks from nissan
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Originally Posted by cincysilvias14
(Post 10660532)
what about your body control module? when you go to start the car does the security light stay on? I had a key go south on me and the bcm wouldn't let that key start the car. had to cut a new one for like 45 bucks from nissan
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i got an easy way to not waste money, pull the starter out and bench test it.
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sub'd
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Originally Posted by padilla03z
(Post 10660539)
i got an easy way to not waste money, pull the starter out and bench test it.
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Having the same problem!!!! Frustrating! Replaced battery, tested starter, checked the fuses. Now the fuses under the dash, the "start signal" 10a fuse didn't light up with a test light. thought it might have been a bad fuse. replaced the fuse. . . .still no light. Took the clutch safety switch off. . .took it apart, and cleaned the contacts. Reinstalled. I am running out of ideas. :dunno:
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Originally Posted by Khris Chong
(Post 10669845)
Having the same problem!!!! Frustrating! Replaced battery, tested starter, checked the fuses. Now the fuses under the dash, the "start signal" 10a fuse didn't light up with a test light. thought it might have been a bad fuse. replaced the fuse. . . .still no light. Took the clutch safety switch off. . .took it apart, and cleaned the contacts. Reinstalled. I am running out of ideas. :dunno:
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Originally Posted by PP08HR
(Post 10669893)
If you bought the vehicle used make sure there is not an aftermarket alarm installed. Sometimes they can be activated after a battery dies and there may be a need to disable it.
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wait, you used a test light on your fuse and it was bad. did you check for continuity after you pulled it out? if your test light didn't come on when testing the fuse that sounds like it can only be the fuse. did you check the new fuse before and after install? maybe your system is shorting out and blowing the fuse immediately.
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Originally Posted by padilla03z
(Post 10669921)
wait, you used a test light on your fuse and it was bad. did you check for continuity after you pulled it out? if your test light didn't come on when testing the fuse that sounds like it can only be the fuse. did you check the new fuse before and after install? maybe your system is shorting out and blowing the fuse immediately.
It sucks when the people dont come back and tell us what it actually ended up being. Hard to diagnose a problem from across the country and then get no feedback on it. |
Originally Posted by PP08HR
(Post 10669893)
If you bought the vehicle used make sure there is not an aftermarket alarm installed. Sometimes they can be activated after a battery dies and there may be a need to disable it.
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter
(Post 10669902)
Good advice. You also might want to try an alternative key. Sometimes when you get a used car some of the keys are not programmed to start the car. Just throwing that out there. All this great technology isnt always so great. If it has an aftermarket alarm look under the dash for the bypass switch. It probably doesn't have one but you might get lucky... If it did you pretty much just push it and hold it while you start the car... Aftermarket alarms really blow the big one.
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter
(Post 10669994)
Sounds like the fuse was good but he wasnt getting power to that point...
It sucks when the people dont come back and tell us what it actually ended up being. Hard to diagnose a problem from across the country and then get no feedback on it. |
I work like crazy, so my time is limited. I am trying to work on this issue when I do have the time. So it's been a slow process. What I had in mind next was replacing the clutch safety switch. Finding out about the "start signal" fuse. Someone did mention to me about the starter gear not lining up with the flywheel?? Don't know if thats a possibility or not? How can you tell if you have a bad relay in the IPDM? Seems like the starter relay differs from the rest. Sorry, I'm just throwing stuff out there. . . . Haven't drove her in a month! I just want my baby back, lol.
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Did you bench test the starter? Single click from the starter is usually a bad starter... Sometimes it's a bad bar and sometimes your engine is seized up (usually it clicks and smokes) your new starter might be a dud. If it clicks its getting power and trying to work. Have you tried push starting ?
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Have had the starter tested. It's still good. I've manually turned the engine at the crank, cuz I thought. . . worst case scenario. Gave it 2 solid good turns. Doesn't seem locked up at all. Have tried push starting as well.
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So push starting doesn't work? The fuse doesn't ever close so if u got continuity through it ur good.
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My guess is that when you jumped the other car when you unhooked the cables a surge of some sort happened and it decided to release its energy in the ecu because that's what was on.
Im not saying you didn't but you should always have your headlights on or you blower on when unhooking jumper leads so any spikes your alternator is putting out have a place to escape (use spiked energy) Thats how I've come to understand it anyways... Just sucks because your trying to help someone out and you end up screwing yourself. |
Where was this about unhooking for a jump? If the battery is connected, it will buffer.
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take it to autozone to get codes read
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Originally Posted by CK12983
(Post 10679778)
take it to autozone to get codes read
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OP hasn't logged in since he started this thread.... prob won't be back
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I think he forgot his login because he started commenting with Khris Chong
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