"HOW TO" VDC Fully Disabled Button
 

Well... many of us know that pushing the VDC button next to the steering wheel won´t fully dissable this function and will kick in on hard turns and so. This is why I would like to post this How To procedure so anyone can install a On/Off switch in a fully stealth way without cutting cables, fully reversible.

HOW TO DISSABLE VDC COMPLETELY

• Tools Needed

1. Yaw Rate G Sensor unit conector (I found it from a Volvo) you can get this on your local junk yard from a 350z.
2. Set of Small Cable Clips (autozone)
3. 2 extra cables with female pin conector (15 inch long each)
4. 1 round rocker switch

Attachment 432349

http://perfect-parking.co.uk/photos/...ker-switch.jpg

First we start by removing the central console of our 350z and Locating the Yaw Rate G Sensor unit, take it off (Do not drop it!) and unplug the conector harness.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...TkyMi5qcGc.jpg

Then we locate the GROUND wire from the harness (I prefer to use this wire instead of Positive wire, to avoid any possible damage to the unit) this wire is pin #6 White/Red color, use a clip and one of the extra cables with Female Pin and attach it.

Attachment 432350

Then Locate the Same cable wich is same pin #6 on your new conector (cable can be other color so use pin numbers) and attach the other extra cable with Female Pin.

Then locate every other cable and match it with your new harness pins and cables using the Cable Clips.

Now you must have something like this:

Attachment 432351


Plug your new cable to the G sensor Unit, put it back on its original place (do not over tight or you can damage it)... and put both cables together (the extra cables with female pins) so there is conection between them. and turn the key on (do not start engine)... VDC and SLIP dash lights must turn on and turn off and keep off... if this happens, everything is correct... now separate both cables and lights must turn on!!!. and they will keep on no mater what you do, until you turn key off and put cables back together.

Ok so now we know that everything is working like it should. Is time to install the Switch.

I installed under the ashtray!!. so is fully stealth!
Just make the switch hole next to the screw hole.

now, you are ready to go... Put all cables away from the Hand Brake, use tape or zips. conect the extra cables to the switch pins and be sure they are tight. This is why they need to be 15inch long. since you are only abble to conect them with the switch already installed on place.

Before completelly puting al together, do a new test but using the new switch. if ok then you are good to go.

Put all back together and ENJOY !!!

Attachment 432352

Attachment 432353

How To by Surfo

REMEMBER VDC will not come back on by pressing the switch to ON position again, you must also turn your car off and back on.

I take NO responsability by any damage caused by you or to you with this mod. Use it at your Own Risk

Greetings!!

What year is your car?

my car is 2003.

This only applies to cars with VDC (easy way to know, is to look for the VDC button Above the Gas Cap Open button)

:hmmm:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...bling-vdc.html

Any pictures of the switch mounted?

Here!

Attachment 432396

Attachment 432397

Yes thanks!, but on that write up you CUT the wire! and I don´t like cutting oem wires. So I decided to add a separated harness and make this fully reversible with no damage at all to oem parts.

I´m working on getting a new OEM VDC button, so this VDC Full Off mod has a OEM switch, and since just cuting for a fraction of a second the G sensor signal will keep VDC Fully dissabled until you turn off and on the cars ignition, there is no need for a fully on/off switch, just a push button. and there is no better push button than a oem one that can be fitter just next to the VDC stock one. And I will design a decal or something like DANGER or RACE MODE for it :thumbup:

Stupid question, but I believe reading that our cars aren't known for stand stills unless with line locks. With this, can stand stills be done?

No, you still need to pull the brake light fuse.

actually with line locks, you dont need to pull the fuse. that is the purpose of line locks. you press a button and never have to touch the brakes.

But yea, this mod won't help that. Burn outs when using the brake pedal will affect the ABS system.


Nice write up OP. Never had the vdc come on in turns myself...and I've tracked the car at MSR Houston before. :dunno:

Thanks for info. Wasn't sure.

Don´t know that track but if it is a fast track then maybe that is why you have never noticed the VDC come on in turns... VDC comes when car is slowing down fast while turning, more often at double apex turns.

Hey guys. I realize this thread is a little old but Ive got a question specific to this switch. I bought my car used and lightly modified. One of the mods was this after market switch. However, when I hit it, the "slip" and "VDC off" lights come on. Does the switch also turn off abs, triggering the "slip" light or how does that work. Is this normal?

No, ABS is still functional. The reason both lights turn on is to show that VDC is fully disabled.

How to test to see if abs is still on: slam the brakes if smoke comes out of fender well you have no abs. i wouldnt trust what somone says in regards to abs.

you have no idea what the preivios owner could have done in regards to wireing and what all it touches. i have a switch set up that jumps my rear brake lights so i don't have abs for drift but this light also turns the slip vdc off light but yet my vdc box is untouched and fully connected

make how to naaaoooooooooooooooooo ^

ok thanks lol ill asusme abs is off but im going to try slamming the brakes when theyre slick. or just assume its off and carry on being careful

Since this was never answered, ABS should work fine. I will test it tonight, i just did the disable and the ABS light is not on.

i know this thread is old, and im a dumbass for asking this but what is the VDC button for?

350Z Rear Suspension and the VDC

The 350Z rear suspension and the VDC complemented the front suspension in its pursuit of a well-rounded driving experience.

The new multi-link design in the rear suspension featured high camber stiffness thanks to the increased distance between the upper A-arms and lower control links. It gave high lateral stiffness and a great sense of stability, but it was also tuned for low stiffness in the longitudinal mode, which contributed to ride comfort. This was done by separating the lateral and longitudinal road loads with a radius rod.

Engineers also placed a high priority on eliminating rear-wheel hop in the axle-windup mode, especially considering the Z's abundance of power.

The rear shock absorbers were now located inline with the wheel center.

Separation of the springs from the shock absorbers resulted in 60 percent less friction in the residual moment, which means the suspension could react faster to road inputs. And this configuration also provided for more luggage space because the wider shock-absorber span intruded less into the cargo area.

To reduce unsprung weight, the rear axle housings (upright), upper A-arms, and rear lower links were made of aluminum alloy. The rear suspension is carried in a rubber-isolated subframe, also made of aluminum alloy. As a result, the rear suspension of the 350Z weighed 20 percent less than the 300ZX's setup.

Along with handling prowess, the 350Z's sporting mission demanded exceptional stopping power. The base 350Z brakes were a power-assisted 4-wheel-disc arrangement with high friction-coefficient pads.

The goals of this system included smoothness, linear performance, and easy controllability. Engineers aimed for a firm pedal feel that wasn't high-effort. Even with the standard 4-wheel discs, the plan was for the 350Z to deliver shorter stopping distances than a BMW M Roadster, Honda S2000, Porsche Boxster S, or Chevrolet Corvette.

Even with standard brakes, the 350Z was designed to deliver short, sure stops. The gold calipers shown reveal these as the available Brembo-brand brakes.

©2007 Publications International, Ltd.

For those who needed even more powerful brakes, an optional Brembo system was offered. It featured the same large 27-millimeter front caliper pistons and 13-millimeter rears, as well as the 324-millimeter front and 322-millimeter rear rotors as those on the high-performance Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R. It was available only on the Track model, which also included 18-inch forged-aluminum-alloy wheels and front and rear spoilers.

Electronic chassis enhancements are increasingly common on vehicles in all size and price categories, and the 350Z appropriately offered its share. Available systems included antilock braking, electronic brake-force distribution, brake assist, traction control and Vehicle Dynamics Control.
Vehicle Dynamics Control

VDC enhanced vehicle stability and improved performance in emergency avoidance maneuvers regardless of the road surface or weather conditions. Working with the antilock and traction-control systems, VDC could reduce engine torque or apply individual brakes as necessary to stabilize the car under severe cornering situations.

For example, if the car were understeering in a turn, VDC could reduce throttle and apply the brake to an outside rear wheel to bring it back to the driver's intended path. Or if the car were oversteering, VDC could brake an inside front wheel to correct the potential fishtail and bring the car back into line.

This feature helped make the 350Z more of an all-occasion, all-weather car. With such a technological backstop, the driver could relax and enjoy the performance of the car a bit more.

Nissan engineers tuned the VDC system to provide necessary intervention, as when a tired or stressed driver finds himself on an icy road, but not to interfere with sports-driving fun on a dry road.
Tire-Pressure Warning System

Another safety enhancement was the tire-pressure warning system. A pressure sensor within each wheel in the center of the rim halves could send a radio signal. An antenna in the 350Z's front roof pillar would relay this signal to a receiver in the dashboard.

That information would appear as a digital readout on the drive computer display in the group of secondary gauges on the center stack. The driver would be warned by both a lamp and a buzzer when low tire pressure was detected.

Low tire pressure reduces fuel mileage, can damage tires due to overheating and results in unpredictable handling characteristics, especially in hard driving.