DIY: Disabling VDC
DIY: Disabling VDC
Before we begin, do this at your own risk, no one but you is responsible.
I searched and this seems to be an old and debated topic. That aside, a discussion was done up on G35driver and I went along with it. There wasn't a detailed write up about so I thought I would put one together. Not sure if it is different on the Z vs the G, but the wire to tap into is the orange wire coming out of the VDC box nearest the shifter (it is a small black Bosch box).
Here's my write up and the original posts:
I searched and this seems to be an old and debated topic. That aside, a discussion was done up on G35driver and I went along with it. There wasn't a detailed write up about so I thought I would put one together. Not sure if it is different on the Z vs the G, but the wire to tap into is the orange wire coming out of the VDC box nearest the shifter (it is a small black Bosch box).
Here's my write up and the original posts:
So I got back into it again with my VDC override. I've been riding all summer with it completely shut-off with no control of it whatsoever and I couldnt use my cupholder because of where I had the switch mounted.
I got back in there this weekend and took everything apart and did things a little differently. So the first time I did it, I used a simple Pilot switch I bought from Pep Boys and some random wire I pulled from a junk car. I soldered it all together and successfully disable my VDC, but I had no way of turning it back on. This had me worried that I picked the wrong wire to tap into, used the wrong wire size for the switch or the switch was bad or incorrect.
So this time I got some better sized wire, more connectors and a better quality switch from an electronics store. Here is what I did:
22-guage wire (20-guage is better)
20-24 guage male and female connectors (closer to 20-guage preferred)
20-24 guage butt-connectors (closer to 20-guage preferred)
12V single pole single throw two connector switch
electrical tape a must, wire loom wrape a plus.
***Do this with your battery disconnected.
So you can clearly see where I made the connections and where I mounted it. If its not too clear, I mounted the switch on the passenger side next to the a mounting rib where the screw hole goes to secure the arm rest console.
To correct my first attempt, I cut the old wiring off and attached a butt connector to each end of the OE-wire (once cut, that is one from the VDC box and one from the harness loom). I then added a good length of wire to each butt connector and then gave one end a female and the other a male connector. This allows me to go back to a stock like condition and operate 100% like stock. The next thing I did was wire up a male/female setup to connect to the switch and to tap into the other male/female connectors.
The main wiring leads come from the orange wire that goes from the VDC box into the main harness loom. Here's a detailed diagram of the setup:
The only things I can stress is to make sure your soldering/crimping connections are solid. If they are not, you may find your self frustated chasing down loose connections. Also, the car might go through an ECU re-learn process which can affect start up idle and might also cause the VDC/Slip lights to activate randomly (could have been from the loose connections, I am just giving you a heads up).
I got back in there this weekend and took everything apart and did things a little differently. So the first time I did it, I used a simple Pilot switch I bought from Pep Boys and some random wire I pulled from a junk car. I soldered it all together and successfully disable my VDC, but I had no way of turning it back on. This had me worried that I picked the wrong wire to tap into, used the wrong wire size for the switch or the switch was bad or incorrect.
So this time I got some better sized wire, more connectors and a better quality switch from an electronics store. Here is what I did:
22-guage wire (20-guage is better)
20-24 guage male and female connectors (closer to 20-guage preferred)
20-24 guage butt-connectors (closer to 20-guage preferred)
12V single pole single throw two connector switch
electrical tape a must, wire loom wrape a plus.
***Do this with your battery disconnected.
So you can clearly see where I made the connections and where I mounted it. If its not too clear, I mounted the switch on the passenger side next to the a mounting rib where the screw hole goes to secure the arm rest console.
To correct my first attempt, I cut the old wiring off and attached a butt connector to each end of the OE-wire (once cut, that is one from the VDC box and one from the harness loom). I then added a good length of wire to each butt connector and then gave one end a female and the other a male connector. This allows me to go back to a stock like condition and operate 100% like stock. The next thing I did was wire up a male/female setup to connect to the switch and to tap into the other male/female connectors.
The main wiring leads come from the orange wire that goes from the VDC box into the main harness loom. Here's a detailed diagram of the setup:
The only things I can stress is to make sure your soldering/crimping connections are solid. If they are not, you may find your self frustated chasing down loose connections. Also, the car might go through an ECU re-learn process which can affect start up idle and might also cause the VDC/Slip lights to activate randomly (could have been from the loose connections, I am just giving you a heads up).
Last edited by idrive_MD; Nov 5, 2010 at 03:04 AM.
hmm i maybe out on a lim here but isnt ther a button you can press to turn off vdc? Also, im guessing if i am wrong in the first sentence, that this is a full turn off of vdc. With going this route what would we get turned off besides what the basic vdc button does?
hmm i maybe out on a lim here but isnt ther a button you can press to turn off vdc? Also, im guessing if i am wrong in the first sentence, that this is a full turn off of vdc. With going this route what would we get turned off besides what the basic vdc button does?
It was simple and cheap enough for me to do it right before a race this summer, so I gave it a try.
It has nothing to do with pressing the button. The button is a partial "disable", not a complete one. Read the two threads I referenced above for the explanation behind this mod.
If you don't want to have to press the button, look into KPTechnologies (one of our sponsors). They make a module that "remembers" whether you had it on or off when you turn off the car and restores that state the next time you start it.
If you don't want to have to press the button, look into KPTechnologies (one of our sponsors). They make a module that "remembers" whether you had it on or off when you turn off the car and restores that state the next time you start it.
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Thanks to the OP for bringing the topic up anyway, I didn't realize there was an (easy) way of disabling short of an ECU mod. My home track has a good 1/2 second I feel that can be gained without it, from one or two corners in particular that have been interrupted by this.
one of the best things i've done after being comfortable at the track... as there is still some interference even after pushing the stock vdc or tcs button. sometimes when trail-braking or trying to power out or getting the car to slide...
Even though I never experienced VDC kicking in at the track, I went ahead and tried this mod last night. Soldered a switch together and stripped my center console only to find NO Bosch box.
I then did some more research. Turns out the Enthusiast has TCS only. Oh well, atleast I know my car will turn off the nanny with a simple push of a button.
I really like finding new projects to dive into, but I guess I should slow down and do more research before breaking out the tools.
I then did some more research. Turns out the Enthusiast has TCS only. Oh well, atleast I know my car will turn off the nanny with a simple push of a button.
I really like finding new projects to dive into, but I guess I should slow down and do more research before breaking out the tools.
So as I mentioned at the bottom of my message, the whole setup was behaving a little a flaky. It work normally and then randomly the lights would come on and stay on. So I went back through and re did some of my connections and it seemed to fix the issue.
So just as a warning, make sure you're connections are solid! It is no fun doing mods like this just to find its not working 100%. You might also experience some ecu-relearning qwirks that will work themselves out.
So just as a warning, make sure you're connections are solid! It is no fun doing mods like this just to find its not working 100%. You might also experience some ecu-relearning qwirks that will work themselves out.
Last edited by idrive_MD; Nov 15, 2010 at 01:09 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Modesto, Ca
I noticed everyone is saying just push the button, but i have a base and don't have a button! i called nissan and they basically told me that with the base model you either get traction control or you don't its totally random. i unfortunately have traction control. So would this set up benefit me? I mean what fun is a RWD sports car when you cant get a bit sideways or do a nice burnout without the computer sucking the clutch pedal to the floor?!Any info will help!
I noticed everyone is saying just push the button, but i have a base and don't have a button! i called nissan and they basically told me that with the base model you either get traction control or you don't its totally random. i unfortunately have traction control. So would this set up benefit me? I mean what fun is a RWD sports car when you cant get a bit sideways or do a nice burnout without the computer sucking the clutch pedal to the floor?!Any info will help!
I thought there was a button to disable TCS if you had it, but I haven't been in a base.
Ok so is this like an on n off switch for the VDC?? like when i want it on i can turn it on n when i want it off i can jus flip the switch? somethinge like the VDC OFF button but this one fully disables it until i flip the switch back???
Thanks for the write up! I used to think folks were crazy that when you hit the button to shut off VDC that it's still partially active. Well, I can assure folks that if you left foot brake with lots of trail braking the VDC will still gently get in the way even with it off. I started practicing these techniques a few years back and it's really screws up trying to use these techniques.
In more depth, the override I documented WILL allow you to turn it off (even more so than the factory switch), but if you want to turn it back on you will have to flip the switch and restart the car for it to return to normal function. The factory switch still operates as normal when the override switch is not in use...follow me?
ok i get u looks great so i can keep my vdc on for slippery days.. n when i want it all off i just flip and VDC is off... But when i want it on again i flip it back n restart the car 
sounds good looks like i shall be doing this mod
sounds good looks like i shall be doing this mod
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Groton, CT
I installed a switch where the Seat Warmers are normally installed (I have Track Pack). Here is a finished Pic. For some reason, if you place the switch back in on with the car running the ABS light comes on until you restart the engine.
The only other way to fully disable the system without installing the switch is to spin-out just prior to racing/drifting at the track. Both lights will remain lit and the system automatically disables itself (Found this out on accident a time or two when I first started racing/drifting).
This mod is not that useful to those who don't fiet or heal-toe drift/rally - Other wise this is a huge improvement with regard to throttle response. I recommend this mod for track use only.
Decent writeup though, recommend giving details on removing the center counsel next time (Five Screws and two wiring harness').
Respectfully,
Craig
The only other way to fully disable the system without installing the switch is to spin-out just prior to racing/drifting at the track. Both lights will remain lit and the system automatically disables itself (Found this out on accident a time or two when I first started racing/drifting).
This mod is not that useful to those who don't fiet or heal-toe drift/rally - Other wise this is a huge improvement with regard to throttle response. I recommend this mod for track use only.
Decent writeup though, recommend giving details on removing the center counsel next time (Five Screws and two wiring harness').
Respectfully,
Craig
Glad it worked for you. Sorry I didn't mention the center console details. I didn't think it was worth mentioning as anyone who can do this mod should be able to figure out how to get in there.
I installed a switch where the Seat Warmers are normally installed (I have Track Pack). Here is a finished Pic. For some reason, if you place the switch back in on with the car running the ABS light comes on until you restart the engine.
The only other way to fully disable the system without installing the switch is to spin-out just prior to racing/drifting at the track. Both lights will remain lit and the system automatically disables itself (Found this out on accident a time or two when I first started racing/drifting).
This mod is not that useful to those who don't fiet or heal-toe drift/rally - Other wise this is a huge improvement with regard to throttle response. I recommend this mod for track use only.
Decent writeup though, recommend giving details on removing the center counsel next time (Five Screws and two wiring harness').
Respectfully,
Craig
The only other way to fully disable the system without installing the switch is to spin-out just prior to racing/drifting at the track. Both lights will remain lit and the system automatically disables itself (Found this out on accident a time or two when I first started racing/drifting).
This mod is not that useful to those who don't fiet or heal-toe drift/rally - Other wise this is a huge improvement with regard to throttle response. I recommend this mod for track use only.
Decent writeup though, recommend giving details on removing the center counsel next time (Five Screws and two wiring harness').
Respectfully,
Craig