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-   -   How to solve radiant heat issues on FI Z's? (https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/417691-how-to-solve-radiant-heat-issues-on-fi-zs.html)

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 06:17 AM

How to solve radiant heat issues on FI Z's?
 
Hey guys I had all my exhaust pipes from my turbonetic kit JET-Hot coated in extreme sterling as you should be able to see from the photo's I've posted. The cost was about $360 for everything and a week turn around time. Jet-Hot does some very OUTSTANDING work! You may even notice that all the mating ends and surfaces as well as threaded areas have been cleaned and not coated.

https://my350z.com/forum/members/hav...bonetics-4.jpg

https://my350z.com/forum/members/hav...bonetics-2.jpg

https://my350z.com/forum/members/hav...bonetics-3.jpg

https://my350z.com/forum/members/hav...s-jet-hot.html

As beautiful as they are now I'm afraid that I've been actually considering wrapping them again in HP Lava Wrap (The new stuff). Yeah.. I know I must be Nucking Futts right?!? Header wrap over Jet-hot? What must I be thinking? :rolleyes: :icon22: Thats why I need your HELP!

What I need to know is two things.

1. Is there any benefit what-so-ever to wrapping over coated pipes or could my money be spent better elsewhere?

2. Has it been found that heat soak issue with the Turbonetic intake location has a REAL adverse effect on performance gains?

One more thing I think you should know. Because these are turbo pipes Jet-Hot advised the everything before (in front of) the turbos should only be coated on the outside only. So only the 2 down pipes and WG pipes were coated inside out. Jet-Hot assured me that any difference would be nominal. (OKaaaay) :dunno: :icon43:

I have no problem at all spending the money if I'll get positive results. The point is I'm looking to get results.
So if you've done anything like this before please chime in with your feedback.

Thanks in advance. :thumbup:

ttg35fort Feb 18, 2009 06:31 AM


Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2 (Post 6966102)
Hey guys I had all my exhaust pipes from my turbonetic kit JET-Hot coated in extreme sterling as you should be able to see from the photo's I've posted. The cost was about $360 for everything and a week turn around time. Jet-Hot does some very OUTSTANDING work! You may even notice that all the mating ends and surfaces as well as threaded areas have been cleaned and not coated.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kimvKxLPFVo/SZ...2/DSC00580.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kimvKxLPFVo/SZ...2/DSC00582.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_kimvKxLPFVo/SZ...2/DSC00584.JPG

As beautiful as they are now I'm afraid that I've been actually considering wrapping them again in HP Lava Wrap (The new stuff). Yeah.. I know I must be Nucking Futts right?!? Header wrap over Jet-hot? What must I be thinking? :rolleyes: :icon22: Thats why I need your HELP!

What I need to know is two things.

1. Is there any benefit what-so-ever to wrapping over coated pipes or could my money be spent better elsewhere?

2. Has it been found that heat soak issue with the Turbonetic intake location has a REAL adverse effect on performance gains?

I have no problem at all spending the money if I'll get positive results. The point is I'm looking to get results.
So if you've done anything like this before please chime in with your feedback.

Thanks in advance. :thumbup:

I have had my exhaust system ceramic coated. I did a little research on using a heat wrap over the ceramic coating a while back. I think I remember one guy posted in a Corvette forum that his ceramic coating where he applied the heat wrap did not last that long (I think he said about 1 1/2 years if I remember correctly), whereas components that were ceramic coated, but not heat wrapped, lasted much longer. I think he said he already had it on for 5 years and it was still holding up.

Some ceramic coatings are water based and some are oil based. Also, I think that some heat wraps absorb water if they are splashed (e.g., when it rains or driving through a puddle). Perhaps this only is bad for water based ceramic coatings? I don't know, but I thought I would throw it out for discussion.

Jet-Hot may be different than other ceramic coatings. I recommend that you contact them and get their opinion on whether heat wrap will adversely affect their coating over time.

frankie945 Feb 18, 2009 06:36 AM

if you wrap the intake pipe it will just hold the heat in. I wish i coated my pipes like u did.Run water/meth best way to lower air intake temps. Im using the snow performance stage2 with my TN kit.

Jay'Z Feb 18, 2009 06:51 AM

Pics arent showing but leave it coated no wrap...

ttg35fort Feb 18, 2009 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by frankie945 (Post 6966153)
if you wrap the intake pipe it will just hold the heat in. I wish i coated my pipes like u did.Run water/meth best way to lower air intake temps. Im using the snow performance stage2 with my TN kit.

If the intake air temp coming out of the intercooler is lower than the engine bay temp, then thermally inslating the intake pipe would be a benefit because it lowers thermal conductivity. Of course, if the intake air temp coming out of the intercooler is higher than the engine bay temp, then the reverse is true and it would not be good to thermally insulate the intake tube.

In my case, my engine bay is hotter than my intake air temp, so I should see a slight benefit using a thermal insulator. As you noted, however, using water/meth injection is significantly more affective.

I will be running meth. If, AND ONLY IF, I can confrim that there is a ceramic coating that will hold up to the meth (and water should I choose to do a meth/water mix), then I will be ceramic coating the inside of my intake tube. There may be some minimal gain, maybe a few hp, but I don't expect a whole lot. Given the variations from dynoing from one day to another, it may not even be measurable. But alot of little things add up, and I am doing a lot of little things.

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 06:57 AM


Originally Posted by Jay'Z (Post 6966215)
Pics arent showing but leave it coated no wrap...

If you're using firefox browser then you might have a problem. I have to swich back to IE to see them too. :icon39: No clue why though.

Jay'Z Feb 18, 2009 07:01 AM

I have IE.....

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 07:02 AM


Originally Posted by ttg35fort (Post 6966234)
If the intake air temp coming out of the intercooler is lower than the engine bay temp, then thermally inslating the intake pipe would be a benefit because it lowers thermal conductivity. Of course, if the intake air temp coming out of the intercooler is higher than the engine bay temp, then the reverse is true and it would not be good to thermally insulate the intake tube.

In my case, my engine bay is hotter than my intake air temp, so I should see a slight benefit using a thermal insulator. As you noted, however, using water/meth injection is significantly more affective.

I will be running meth. If, AND ONLY IF, I can confrim that there is a ceramic coating that will hold up to the meth (and water should I choose to do a meth/water mix), then I will be ceramic coating the inside of my intake tube. There may be some minimal gain, maybe a few hp, but I don't expect a whole lot. Given the variations from dynoing from one day to another, it may not even be measurable. But alot of little things add up, and I am doing a lot of little things.

Sounds like good advise but I'm not wrapping the intake pipes. On the other hand the water/meth injection system sounds promising. :D

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 07:04 AM


Originally Posted by Jay'Z (Post 6966253)
I have IE.....

Oh wow! Umm... I don't know then. :dunno:

Cass007 Feb 18, 2009 07:19 AM

The pics are a Fail as said.

You were properly advised on the coating, no interior coating on the intake side, inside and out is fine on the exhaust. I would not wrap them because of what ttg35fort said, I believe he is 100% accurate in his statements here from having done some of the same research.

Meth will bring down the intake temps just fine, but be sure not to be tempted to run more boost or timing or else. Keep in mind that the TN kit is good for what it does, 8.5lbs boost on a stock block, if you try to get much more out of it than that.....BOOM!!

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 07:41 AM

I've added links. :thumbup:

Cass007 Feb 18, 2009 07:43 AM


Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2 (Post 6966429)
I've added links. :thumbup:

:rolleyes: - links are a FAIL too.

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 07:58 AM

Now? :icon43:

frankie945 Feb 18, 2009 08:07 AM

pic's are good... And with the water/ meth on my old procharger setup I gained almost 20whp. Check out this link it show my gains and the install.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...tall-350z.html

You can run just distilled water if you want with no meth.

Cass007 Feb 18, 2009 08:07 AM


Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2 (Post 6966514)
Now? :icon43:

SUCCESS :thumbup:

Havok_RLS2 Feb 18, 2009 08:13 AM


Originally Posted by Cass007 (Post 6966552)
SUCCESS :thumbup:

Thanks. :rolleyes:

scotts300 Feb 19, 2009 09:27 AM


Originally Posted by ttg35fort (Post 6966134)

Some ceramic coatings are water based and some are oil based. Also, I think that some heat wraps absorb water if they are splashed (e.g., when it rains or driving through a puddle). Perhaps this only is bad for water based ceramic coatings? I don't know, but I thought I would throw it out for discussion.

Have you talked to specific coaters that referenced water or oil based ceramic coatings? Even if both are offered, the carrier liquid should not matter after the fusion process, as it's removed at that time. The splashes and water would only be detrimental if there was enough to rapidly cool a hot surface, which may cause the coating to flake since the expansion coefficients of the metal and the ceramic are quite dissimilar.

ttg35fort Feb 19, 2009 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by scotts300 (Post 6972023)
Have you talked to specific coaters that referenced water or oil based ceramic coatings? Even if both are offered, the carrier liquid should not matter after the fusion process, as it's removed at that time. The splashes and water would only be detrimental if there was enough to rapidly cool a hot surface, which may cause the coating to flake since the expansion coefficients of the metal and the ceramic are quite dissimilar.

Good information.

As I indicated in my post, I don't know the answer to the question I presented, but only threw it out for discussion so that others, such as yourself, could provide information based on their knowledge and experience. Bill at Fuzion, who ceramic coated my exhaust system, did indicate to me that he beleived an oil based ceramic coating was more durable than a water based ceramic coating. We did not go into the details of why he felt that way, but I will ask him next time I talk to him.

Havok_RLS2 Feb 19, 2009 11:01 AM

So did we come up with an answer or not? :dunno:
Wrap or no wrap? :o

ttg35fort Feb 19, 2009 11:09 AM


Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2 (Post 6972504)
So did we come up with an answer or not? :dunno:
Wrap or no wrap? :o

I don't think we have a firm answer. On my build I am going to play it safe and forego the heat wrap and trust the ceramic coating to do its job.

I MAY use my turbo blankets, however, even though my turbine housings are ceramic coated inside and out. The outside layer of the turbo blankets appear to be water resistent. Even if they are not, my Greddy turbos sit up pretty high in the engine compartment and are somewhat protected by the front under tray.


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