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TT'ing in sunny South Africa
Hi all
As the title suggest, I'm based in Cape Town, South Africa. Long time lurker in the forum, been just soaking up the wealth of knowledge and planning my build. First off, sorry for the long first post, just want to make sure I got everything down! Some background, as a 2019 Xmas present to myself I bought a bone stock (except for test pipes) 2004 350z after selling my previous "toy" (Datsun 1200 pickup with S15 Autech Sr20 & 6 speed transmission crammed into it). When I got it https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....509dd30c0e.jpg As I got her The idea was to update the looks and upgrade suspension (bushings & shocks were worn out when I got the car). Suspension mods I installed while we were in strict Covid-19 lockdown:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c0bafd8734.jpg As its sits now https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....9695c3e241.jpg As rear sits now I've now started to order parts and plan my twin turbo build. Plan is 500whp with room to grow as I get used to the power. Car will be a weekend toy with occasional track & drag days and early morning twisty mountain roads drives Car will be run on 95 ROM (same as 91 AKI pump in the US) since E85 is hard to come buy here (no pumps, only available from E85 suppliers for race applications) Parts I have or are bought & are on their way: Engine:
Drivetrain:
Thanks for taking the time to read everyone! |
I like it...
my thoughts are ... You have a solid parts list - nothing really I would change. Are you 100% committed to twin-turbos? Do you already own them? JWT makes the best-bang-for-your-buck clutch/flywheel and it'll hold 500hp all day. The flywheel is relatively light and a good balance of drivability and performance … I would go with 1000cc injectors … ID1000s or ID1050 would be sufficient and will give you as much fuel as you need Don't go less than a 450lph but consider the Ti / Walbro 525 hellcat pump. Same price and both will fit into the OEM basket. You will need to hard-wire the pump to the battery as the OEM wiring cant support the current draw. Many people have done this before. You will need a return fuel system. CJM is the best place to start. Yep, Link G4+ or X … You will not be disappointed Consider solid engine mounts and a poly trans mount I would look into a aftermarket radiator. Please don't go with Mishi … consider a Koyo or a custom setup. what are you doing for exhaust? what are your downpipes? where will the intake air filters be placed? Consider some intake work - like a spacer and the plenum runner trim. would you eliminate the MAF and run a temp sensor? I would do an oil pan spacer too FI'ing a non FI car may not be the best but every engine can benefit from a little FI to increase that volumetric efficiency |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 11027673)
I like it...
my thoughts are ... You have a solid parts list - nothing really I would change. Are you 100% committed to twin-turbos? Do you already own them? Yes, already bought the turbo's and manifolds from someone local who decided to go for a bigger hp build. Why do you ask? JWT makes the best-bang-for-your-buck clutch/flywheel and it'll hold 500hp all day. The flywheel is relatively light and a good balance of drivability and performance …Thanks, will look into that. Would there be room to grow into 600hp with this combo? I would go with 1000cc injectors … ID1000s or ID1050 would be sufficient and will give you as much fuel as you need This was initially on my list but was concerned that its too much & injector duty cycle would have been too low. You actually the second person who recommended this to me, will rather get ID1050's Don't go less than a 450lph but consider the Ti / Walbro 525 hellcat pump. Same price and both will fit into the OEM basket. Thanks, will check that out. You will need to hard-wire the pump to the battery as the OEM wiring cant support the current draw. Many people have done this before. 100%, was the plan You will need a return fuel system. CJM is the best place to start. Do you think Stage 2 kit is appropriate or overkill? Yep, Link G4+ or X … You will not be disappointed Consider solid engine mounts and a poly trans mount. Cool, will look into that. I like the adjustable nature of the z1 poly engine mounts because I'm concerned about drivers side turbo fouling on the steering knuckle/u-joint (we RHD here) and was going to raise engine slightly to clear this if I can't find a neater or slim line steering knuckle solution. I test fitted the turbo already and the edge of the nut in the knuckle is touching the part of the housing where the downpipe bolts up. But I guess I can get custom solid ones fab'd up here, just need to get height right. I would look into a aftermarket radiator. Please don't go with Mishi … consider a Koyo or a custom setup. I actually realised today that I have custom radiator since both end tanks are metal (noticed it when I compared it to another Z). Will investigate size, etc and decide to keep or upgrade what are you doing for exhaust? what are your downpipes? Both will be custom made, doesn't really make economic sense to import them into SA (after shipping & custom duties it would be 5 to 8 times cost of getting a good custom shop to do it in SA). Plan is 2.5 inch, downpipes with 2 resonators into X-pipe into dual 2.5inch out with mufflers on each pipe, all mandrel bent. Or would 2.5 inch be too restrictive and 3 inch preferable? where will the intake air filters be placed? Undecided by current plan is where the stock washer bottles are located, behind the reflectors. Plan is to do slots in the plastic cover under that area (parallel to the road) to improve air flow. Would this work? Any other suggestions? Consider some intake work - like a spacer and the plenum runner trim. I have a plenum spacer installed but hadn't considered a runner trim. Will research it would you eliminate the MAF and run a temp sensor? Will tune of MAP with intake temp sensor I would do an oil pan spacer too Will do FI'ing a non FI car may not be the best but every engine can benefit from a little FI to increase that volumetric efficiency |
Since posting, I've ordered an HKS SSQV blow off valve, 2x locally manufactured 38mm wastegates which has a good rep here and my Link G4X PnP unit with IAT & boost control solenoid.
While waiting for parts to arrive, I've been cleaning up the water lines by deleting front cross-over line, oil warmer line, throttle body warmer lines and right rear bypass line. I'm also trying to figure our how coolant lines for the turbos will be run. I've searched the forum but can't really make heads or tails of how you guys route your lines. Kept getting stuck at links to installation manuals that aren't available anymore (APS, GTM). I've looked at the JWT TT manual (the only manual I could find) and that's confusing to follow :icon14: So my thinking is:
Alternatively I've seen setups discussed re linking the drain of one turbo to the inlet of the other turbo but my concern there is the second turbo will be getting already heated coolant. Is this a valid concern or is the effect minimal? |
The GTM kit flows one turbo to the other, I'm not a fan, but I've got no data on it. My AAM kit (and I think most TT's) add tee's to the heater core lines, often one where the factory bleed point engine right rear is. The flow is from the right heater line (the one from the coolant output of the engine) to the left that goes into the block near the front right by the thermostat. On my setup, these are -6an (I think) and go to a tee behind the engine, and then an in/out line to each turbo.
Hope that helps. I've probably got pics on the build thread. |
Twin turbo kits are great and they do offer a lot but if a turbo goes out or a waste gate needs servicing/replaced twin turbo kits are horribly difficult to install and maintain. But if you're committed than youre committed and make the most of it!
Yea, a JWT clutch / flywheel kit will hold into 700hp I believe keep your injector duty cycle below 80%. Duty cycle is relatively linear between 10% and 80% and you definitely don't want to run out of fuel. Many many people undersize their injectors and end up 'buying them twice' because they want the full potential out of their build. I'd definitely go with a 1000cc if you want anywhere near 600hp Stage 2 looks about right If you fab your own down pipes I would try to go to a 3" slightly past the flange. I fabricated these for my greddy kit. Make sure you use a pipe with a healthy side wall … like Sch 10 (which is 1.1") I would not use anything thinner until further down the line and/or once it goes to 2.5" or 3". I went with 3" down pipes, to a 3" in / 4" out Y-pipe, and a 4" mid pipe/muffler Check post #448 for my exhaust built for my greddy TT kit... https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-9.html Cool on the filters - try to get them away from behind the radiator. Runner trim is the MREV2 Motordyne intake plenum...you can do this yourself with an angle grinder if you're handy! But Motordyne makes a great product if you buy theirs. Good stuff! Great build plan so far! |
Originally Posted by aarrgghh
(Post 11028232)
The GTM kit flows one turbo to the other, I'm not a fan, but I've got no data on it. My AAM kit (and I think most TT's) add tee's to the heater core lines, often one where the factory bleed point engine right rear is. The flow is from the right heater line (the one from the coolant output of the engine) to the left that goes into the block near the front right by the thermostat. On my setup, these are -6an (I think) and go to a tee behind the engine, and then an in/out line to each turbo.
Hope that helps. I've probably got pics on the build thread.
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 11028245)
Twin turbo kits are great and they do offer a lot but if a turbo goes out or a waste gate needs servicing/replaced twin turbo kits are horribly difficult to install and maintain. But if you're committed than youre committed and make the most of it!
Yea, a JWT clutch / flywheel kit will hold into 700hp I believe keep your injector duty cycle below 80%. Duty cycle is relatively linear between 10% and 80% and you definitely don't want to run out of fuel. Many many people undersize their injectors and end up 'buying them twice' because they want the full potential out of their build. I'd definitely go with a 1000cc if you want anywhere near 600hp Stage 2 looks about right If you fab your own down pipes I would try to go to a 3" slightly past the flange. I fabricated these for my greddy kit. Make sure you use a pipe with a healthy side wall … like Sch 10 (which is 1.1") I would not use anything thinner until further down the line and/or once it goes to 2.5" or 3". I went with 3" down pipes, to a 3" in / 4" out Y-pipe, and a 4" mid pipe/muffler Check post #448 for my exhaust built for my greddy TT kit... https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...n-build-9.html Cool on the filters - try to get them away from behind the radiator. Runner trim is the MREV2 Motordyne intake plenum...you can do this yourself with an angle grinder if you're handy! But Motordyne makes a great product if you buy theirs. Good stuff! Great build plan so far! Getting the 1000cc Injector Dynamics injectors, they seem to be well rated and don't compromise on idling quality Thanks for the advice re downpipe & exhaust. Your build thread is a wealth of knowledge, been working through it for tips! |
I like where this is going!
DO NOT PULL A ME...Its better to go to big with your fuel system than to small. I'm on my 2nd set of injectors and still they are to small. Get a set of 1000cc injectors that will provide acquitted fun on pump gas. If you are going to run E-85 1000cc will get you 500-600whp. If you do It correctly, you can easily have a reliable 500whp care. Just make sure you have the gauges to monitor things. If you have the time/skill/money you may look at using a tablet as your infotainment system. You can monitor everything at once. |
Originally Posted by Conway_160
(Post 11028279)
I like where this is going!
DO NOT PULL A ME...Its better to go to big with your fuel system than to small. I'm on my 2nd set of injectors and still they are to small. Get a set of 1000cc injectors that will provide acquitted fun on pump gas. If you are going to run E-85 1000cc will get you 500-600whp. If you do It correctly, you can easily have a reliable 500whp care. Just make sure you have the gauges to monitor things. If you have the time/skill/money you may look at using a tablet as your infotainment system. You can monitor everything at once. I read through your build thread Conway_160, some terrible luck you've had but your perseverance is admirable! I actually wanted to go for a ti supercharger setup initially so your thread was one of them I was scouring to plan my build. Unfortunately the lack of support for superchargers in South Africa killed that plan Will definitely be over spec the fuel system so that I have room to grow Re gauges, unfortunately I dont have an abundance of money, time or skill so its gonna have to be regular gauges! Besides the OEM oil pressure and water temp, I'm looking at aftermarket wideband and boost gauges. Anything else? Any brands you'd recommend? |
Originally Posted by IqeraamCPTZ
(Post 11028413)
in South Africa
Are 350z common there? Did you have to import yours? Pretty cool to have an international member doing an FI build! |
I'm in Cape Town, born and raised. Its the second largest city in South Africa. I'm an Investment banker (Real Estate) but quite handy with a wrench: my dad's in the car business so I've been working on cars since I was really young!
South Africa has quite a strong aftermarket car community with German (VW, BMW, Merc, Opel) and Japanese brands (Toyota, Nissan, Honda) being most popular. Plenty of petrol heads here :icon17: While I wouldn't say they are common, there are a decent amount 350Z and 370Z's around. Unfortunately not enough to make it worthwhile for anyone to offer decent aftermarket parts for the Z, so everything needs to be imported or custom made. We have a Nissan manufacturing plant here (for local and international market) so I think our Z's were made here. Auto manufacturing is actually a big industry here with most of the major players represented. There are very little FI Z's around and even less that are done right, so pretty keen to see what the platform can do! |
More parts!
HI all
Over the past few days parts have been coming in and I've ordered everything so far except LSD. Once everything gets here I'll start the actual work on the engine and car...LSD will need to wait until my wallet recovers :o Link G4X with IAT, Boost Control Solenoid, XS Loom extension and switch to switch between high & low boost maps plus HKS BOV came yesterday https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....e5f1bb0d53.jpg Pistons, Rods and Wastegates came in last week https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....5f971b7636.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....a65f2c1623.jpg I also had some solid mounts made up locally. Also had them make up 5mm and 10mm spacers in case I need to lift engine to get the turbo to clear the steering U-joint https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....1f6f54c673.jpg Got two more order to come in. The one is being held up as waiting for CJM Stage 2 fuel return system to come in (apparently CJM is working through a 3-4 week backlog of order) and the other should ship out next week when the Treadstone intercooler comes in Been reading through other build threads and noticed that quite a few people put together their own motors. I've been toying with the idea of assembling it myself after its been at the machine shop.since while I'm not formerly trained, I am quite mechanically inclined and quite enjoy the challenge. While I havent ever worked on the internals of an engine, I did all the suspension work on my 350z and on my previous build, I custom made & fitted my brake system using another cars calipers. Do you guys reckon this is doable for someone which has been tinkering on cars for a few years now or should I rather leave it to the experts? To be honest, to get a mechanic to do it will be a fraction of the cost I spent on parts so cost isnt the issue..its more for the enjoyment of the build & the ability to learn a new skill. Any pointers? Something else I'm toying with is to instead teach myself to weld and fabricate everything to get the turbo kit, etc to fit. While engine assembly and fabing everything myself would be awesome, finding the time will be the major challenge... |
Very nice!
My engine mounts are very similar and you'll like them that narrow. I decided on a 'drop-through' bolt design so I didn't have to raise the engine but 1/4" to get the mount in and out. If it's not too late, maybe consider having you center hole pushed through 100% and drop a bolt with a nut. what treadstone IC did you go with? Yea, rebuilding your block isn't hard if you have all the machine work done. Do you have a electronic copy of the factory service manual? I took some online courses through HP Academy and it gave me enough background to rebuild my block. I would schedule 4 to 6 sessions of 2hrs to 4hrs to rebuild. You'll need breaks between assembly tasks but generally speaking just take your time and read the FSM on the assembly section a few times before you take it on. I spent about $2k USD on a middle of the road tig welder and I don't regret the decision one bit - Ive done enough side work that I've probably paid for the welder just from side work. |
I actually took inspiration from your engine mounts Bealljk :thumbup: Worth considering the bolt through design especially since its TT and ease of access is NB! Will chat to the shop who made these and see what they can do
Was chatting to a custom shop here to get me a intercooler made but cost were getting out of hand because the core needed to be imported. Ended up going with the Treadstone TRTT9 as it seemed like the biggest I could fit in the space provided. Z1 gave me a great price including shipping since I had other stuff I was ordering from them. https://www.treadstoneperformance.co...cooler/p104596 I unfortunately only have the FSM for the HR motor, going to have to get hunting for the DE manual. I see Nicoclub has it so will register on their website and get access to the FSM for my car. That sorta time is very doable for me, sounds like a plan! May start with rebuilding they motor and depending how it goes, see if I have the stamina to learn to tig & fab up everything |
If you can't get the FSM, PM me your E-mail and when I get home Sunday I'll send it to you.
V/R Jason
Originally Posted by IqeraamCPTZ
(Post 11029664)
I actually took inspiration from your engine mounts Bealljk :thumbup: Worth considering the bolt through design especially since its TT and ease of access is NB! Will chat to the shop who made these and see what they can do
Was chatting to a custom shop here to get me a intercooler made but cost were getting out of hand because the core needed to be imported. Ended up going with the Treadstone TRTT9 as it seemed like the biggest I could fit in the space provided. Z1 gave me a great price including shipping since I had other stuff I was ordering from them. https://www.treadstoneperformance.co...cooler/p104596 I unfortunately only have the FSM for the HR motor, going to have to get hunting for the DE manual. I see Nicoclub has it so will register on their website and get access to the FSM for my car. That sorta time is very doable for me, sounds like a plan! May start with rebuilding they motor and depending how it goes, see if I have the stamina to learn to tig & fab up everything |
I have the DE FSM for an 03 in my dropbox if you need it … just shoot me a PM
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Thanks for the offer guys, much appreciated! Managed to get hold of the FSM for 2003 350z...working through it now to make sure I'm able to put the engine together
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Only thing I will say is be careful with O-Rings. Pay attention where they came from. Especially the oil pump and upper pan O Rings. No amount of RTV will keep that from leaking :-(
Originally Posted by IqeraamCPTZ
(Post 11029750)
Thanks for the offer guys, much appreciated! Managed to get hold of the FSM for 2003 350z...working through it now to make sure I'm able to put the engine together
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Originally Posted by Conway_160
(Post 11029752)
Only thing I will say is be careful with O-Rings. Pay attention where they came from. Especially the oil pump and upper pan O Rings. No amount of RTV will keep that from leaking :-(
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Maybe :-(
Originally Posted by IqeraamCPTZ
(Post 11029755)
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like its coming from a man who's learnt that lesson the hard way!
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