courtesyparts has it for $417 us... not sure what converts to.

are the windows all the way down, or just a couple inches?

does amazon deliver up there? if so they have the switch for $33 us

That converts to about $520 CAD not including shipping.

The Windows roll all the way down once I open the door.

Amazon does deliver, and that was the option I was going to try until I found the switch off VQ Nation. I live about 25 minutes from the border, and my US Post Box is right there. I got a switch shipped to there for $50 including shipping. It should be here on Wednesday/Thursday. I'll probably pick it up this week or next and update after I install the switch.

So, I got my new-to-me Switch yesterday and put it all back together. I pulled the car outside of the garage, opened the door and boom. Window's rolled back down again.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....ef218a174a.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....b3f245332d.jpg

So, I decided to take a video to show exactly what's happening so people can see and help me diagnose. ** Immediately after I stopped the video, the locks clicked and locked both doors? **

Finally! I think I may have pinned down my window issue.

After another discussion with my friend/Nissan Tech after ensuring I have a fob to lock/unlock the doors he suggested I try unplugging the lock cylinder and seeing if I had any changes. So, last night after work, I tackled that project.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....19cab57cb9.jpg

I noticed the plug on my lock cylinder was slightly wet :dunno:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....0ce6c9dae9.jpg

After unplugging the lock cylinder, I re-assembled everything and it seemed to be working, so I left it overnight because that's usually when the problem would re-arise if it didn't happen immediately.

This morning my windows were fine, and have been working properly all day so far. Fingers crossed that this is the source of the problem. Next step is looking into the replacement part.

i would put some kind of dielectric grease on there to prevent it again

That's a great idea, I've been recommended to use it on the past, especially when working on my VW's but have never bought any. I'll have to buy some for when I replace that part. Thanks! :thumbup2:

Otherwise, everything seems to be working perfectly with that unplugged. Only issue is when I unlock the door via the key/keyhole, my alarm goes nuts. When using the fob I have no issues.

Not much to update, waiting on Spring. Took my car up to Hamilton and checked out a few breweries with a friend on the weekend.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....036baf6e93.jpg

Last night I did my oil change.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....f861d48566.jpg

Been looking into replacing my OEM wheels as they are pretty beat. Planning to buy something cheap for now, and hopefully upgrade to something better next year.

^ This has changed. I am picking up wheels and tires this coming weekend as I sold my OEM GT wheels on Monday to a local. Nice guy, with an even cooler car, gave him a bit of a deal, but I was happy to get a little money to help me get wheels I really wanted. He will be refinishing them and using them on his Honda Accord daily driver which could turn out interesting. :cool:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....2b2c59009e.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....27cd5ed7d9.jpg


I also ordered a set of Swift Spec R Springs and Energy Solutions Coil Spring Isolators. Rather than doing the Rear Spring Mount Mod, I decided to try these as they'd be more solid, and last longer. They should drop the rear roughly 1/2" to make it sit a little more level.

Updates coming soon about the new wheels.

Picked up my Wheels Saturday, Super happy with them :icon21:
The Wheels/Tires are in great shape.
18x9.5/10.5 ET15 Enkei RPF1 SBC
245 & 275/40 Michelin Pilot Super Sports

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....23acac8293.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....5a0f44628a.jpg

Also picked up a set of Project Mu Super Lock Nut 7's, they match the Enkei Valvestems pretty well.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....4a420dd941.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....16074ca56b.jpg

I threw two on for a quick test-fit. I think the RPF1's will fit nicely once I install the Swift Spec-R Springs.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....369dd696b3.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....892aeb95ef.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c1e8679e93.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....716f31ef9c.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....0e566f2a25.jpg

Looks good! I am waiting for the weather to improve before I put my new wheels / tires on (or drive my car at all). After viewing your +15 offset front & rear I am worried that my +23 f/r won’t look as flush as I had thought. Hopefully my larger squared 285/30 setup will help.

Are you on OEM suspension or Aftermarket? If lowered it will camber in a little bit, and will help. Same size wheels?

I am on mostly (after market dampers, stock springs) OEM suspension as I have prepared my car for Street Class rules under the SCCA. I have a 2007 Grand Sport, so I am running a 18x9 +23 upfront and a rear 18x10 + 23. With SCCA rules I was allowed + or - 7 mm of offset and the ability to increase or decrease wheel diameter by 1” (width has to stay the same). I am hoping it looks somewhat flush. The bulging 285s on the front will look kind of strange but I really wanted the ability to flip and rotate my tires to get more life out of them.

How loud is your exhaust setup? I am contemplating something similar.

Ok, makes sense. Based on some quick calculations on willtheyfit.com it looks like you'll tuck about 14.4mm more than my RPF1's, so I'd say you should be fine!

I've been told people can hear me coming a good ways down the street, but my friends and I don't find it bad in-car. I have intakes and stock cats on my car. A little drone in 5th/6th at lower RPM ~ 2200-2800ish, but that is to be expected.

Chew, watch for fender clearance when you lower the car. Over a dozen sets of tires/wheels in varying configurations and I never had to do anything to my car at stock or lowered height UNTIL I put on +15s, then off to the fender roller guy. And those were just 9.5 +15s all the way around.

Of course, the benefit of that is that I can fit just about anything now - even with camber within spec range. :icon17:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c86150c9bf.jpg

I loved this setup - too bad I got bored with it. :o

Ha ha.. Funny you mention that. I've been looking at renting a Fender Roller locally. I was pretty confident I'd need to roll the rears. I used to have some silly static low VW's so I'm familiar with the process. I'm debating just getting someone to do the rears for me though. I'm assuming the Fronts aren't as big an issue?

There's essentially nothing to roll up front. The lips are designed 180-deg turned up from factory. Only real clearance problems up front are from possible tire interference with the fender liner bolt (cut it if so). But you have to be either way too tall of a tire or stupid low.

I s'pose you could have fender clearance issues from the latter and/or crazy low offset but don't hear too much about front issues.

Perfect, Thanks! I should be fine on the fronts then, not doing anything crazy.

My Energy Suspension Rear Spring Mounts arrived today, now just waiting on my Springs and a Fender Roll. :cool:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....62715d8d95.jpg

If you're going to roll the rears remember you got salt! Mic once sent some guidance on how to treat the inside of the lip (thanks for that if I didn't already). I didn't end up having to roll them so I don't remember the treatment product he used, but I'm sure he'd tell you if you asked. Good luck and roll slooow. :icon44:

Nothing special.... you clean out the new "channel" really good with a stiff brush (even a firm toothbrush or whatever has bristles to get all the way in there), make sure it's clean and dry, then just use silicone seal in it to keep moisture and dirt out.

Oh, and if paint was broken anywhere along the line doing the roll, make sure it's painted and sealed.

I decided I'm going to get someone to roll them for me professionally. Save the headache.

Question: I have been noticing a clunk in the front of my car over bumps at low speeds (under 50km/h ~ 30mph) It isn't there at higher speeds. (highway - 80km/h+ ~50mph+)
I've looked at all the bushings, ball joints, and sway bar end links. Visually they all look fine.

Should I just order Z1 ball joints and OEM Sway Bar End Links and hope they fix the problem? Anyone have experience with one or the other fixing the a similiar issue?

ALSO: Should I have aftermarket Sway Bar End Links if I'm lowered?

What brand of fuca you sporting?

Everything is stock suspension wise at the moment. So OEM FUCA's.

Picked up my Swift Springs yesterday :bowrofl:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....e18fe6f7b1.jpg

Plan is to start the install tonight. I'd like to take my time and while the front end is apart I'd like to see if my clunk is from;

• Compression Rod
• Ball Joint
• Sway Bar End-Link
• Front Upper Control Arm

Picture's don't really do it justice, but it looks good dropped on the New Swift Springs with the Energy Suspensions rear Spring Mounts.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....0f8dafdc64.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....9d55e53acd.jpg

I have my Fender Roll booked for Friday, should be able to put the RPF1's on this weekend. Then I'll need an alignment pronto!

Well, I finally put my RPF1's on :icon21:

Got the fenders rolled by Blain at Righteous Garage in Cambridge and threw them on the next day.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....3702c168b8.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....71ca437e0c.jpg

While doing my Spring Install I lost a bolt for my strut tower bar, so I ordered the Z-Spec Titanium Strut Mount Hardware Kit and a Perrin Antenna from Z1. Looks nice!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....d37aabf4bb.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....98ffd3d6f0.jpg

I also ordered New Centre Caps for the RPF1's and threw those on.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....f9b1ee3bde.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....0b88ef2410.jpg

And finally, got an alignment. I'd highly recommend ACE Alignment to anyone in the Niagara Region :thumbup:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....1c0666dcc7.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....1e78e55c49.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....d4afcfbae6.jpg

Also put on new Sway Bar Endlinks. Helped, but I think I've finally come to the conclusion I need new Compression Arms. Any input on the SPL Bushings in the Compression Arms on a daily?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....ab0ca7da76.jpg

And of course a mandatory pic with the Boss' Civic Type R

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....dee601180d.jpg

A local took a few photo's of my car at a meet last week. :)


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c75f7f26ca.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....6c6d6ba563.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c8c0856dee.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....5c8327cee7.jpg

I pulled my car into our detailing bay out back on Saturday and asked our detailer very nicely if he could work some magic on my faded yellow headlights. I came back about 45 minutes later, and wow! :bowrofl:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....bc93773776.jpg

He offered to wash the car for me, and I am super happy with how they came out. Might have him polish the rest of the car for me.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....6334d40214.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....ddb2df0407.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c974952cf5.jpg

Looking good, Chewwyy.


I need to do that to my headlights, my drivers side is getting yellowish and fogged, passenger side isn't bad but its getting there...

Nice, I did my other cars but it only seems to last a year. Do they put some kind of sealer on them? :dunno:

Thanks, made an immediate difference! Better light output too!

yeah, typically it has to be redone. They didn't put a sealer on mine. Not planning on wintering it this year though, so it shouldn't be as bad.

Anyone have any input on what bushings they prefer on the compression Rods?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....261a3fadd4.jpg

I concluded my compression rod bushings are done so I'm looking into replacements and I'm not sure what to go with. For a summer daily with minimal track time, do I go SPL or Energy/Whitelines? I'm ok with a little noise/harshness/vibration, but not constant.

Discuss...

spl

any specific reason why you went with SPL over ES?

Ended up ordering the Z1 Energy Suspension Bushing Kit.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...it-p-5211.html

The Kit Includes the Lower Control Arm & Compression Rod Bushings. I asked around, but received alot of mixed results, with no one explaining any solid advantages for my use as a daily driver/backroad warrior. I figured I could always upgrade to SPL bushings later. Right now, I need to fix the clunk, and this is significantly cheaper than the the SPL's.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....9a2815195b.jpg

Rubber or poly is fine in all positions for daily, except every car can benefit from the SPL lower compression bushing.

Re: the compression bushing...if you are at or near stock height and dont do any autox or track, they should last. If you are lowered and/or track youll see the rubber start to pull away from the outer race after a while.

Fair, that makes sense. I am only lowered about 1.5" or so (Swift Springs)
Plan on trying to hit at least one maybe two track days this year.

I'll probably upgrade to the SPL further down the road, but for now I think the ES is plenty enough for me since I'm mostly street driving at the moment.

Good thing is you can keep an eye on them with the car on the ground.

Well, Fed-ex dropped the ball. My package was supposed to arrive today, but it will be here Friday instead. Also, I think because I prolonged doing the bushing for so long I put added stress on the wheel bearings. Sounds like I may have 1 or a couple wheel bearings on their way out. Plus side is they are easy to change? Downside is they aren't cheap.

So I started taking apart the front end yesterday to get the Compression Rods and LCA's out. What a pain!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....b0e7a3ea51.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....ddb286e606.jpg

I finally had the Compression Rod fully loose and it would not come unstuck from the chassis bolt. I soaked it heavily and left it, figure I would go back at it tonight when I finish taking apart the driver's side.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....25dac17c79.jpg

I looks like you still have the steering tie rod connected?

You need to get the spindle out of the way so you can break them free with some leverage on the arm itself. Youll just break them free and put the race at the correct angle so they will slide off.

Yeah, I left the tie rod connected, I didn't see why I'd need to take it apart. I disconnected the Upper control arm and got the clearance I needed to free the compression rod from behind the spindle. I tried prying up and down and side to side and nothing happened. Going to try a picklefork tonight to see if that helps.

Gotcha, good luck. Being up north makes things more challenging to say the least.

Made some more progress this morning before work.

I was able to get both the LCA's out and release the Driver's side Compression rod from the chassis bolt, however, I then stripped the nut on the spindle side :suicide:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....67b2312e24.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....d12bee93ae.jpg

Sucks...heat, get some actual penetrating lube it works much better than wd40, and a bolt extractor after you have given it a few heat cycles and hammer whacks. Jack the arm up to make the ball joint stick.

And no power/air tools.

Last night I worked on the passenger side compression arm, gave it some heat, then pried it with the pickle fork. I got the compression arm free, but at the cost of tearing the bushing off of the steel sleeve.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c5c16eda45.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....c2a3685eb3.jpg

I left it with this puller overnight to try again tomorrow once it's cool.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....38139f4c47.jpg

In the morning I brought my LCA's and new bushings into work. I made quick time pressing out the old bushings, and putting in the new ones, but had difficulty getting the shock mount bushing to go flush. I'm going to try and see if I can take them apart, freeze the one side and re-assemble.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....b83f92316d.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....e903c5beed.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....d7bd979e5e.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....9efc350e92.jpg

with my dad's help (certified milwright) we were able to get the stripped nut off the compression rod last night.

Still struggling with the sleeve on the Passenger side though...

Awesome, how did you end up getting it off?

Any luck with the shock bush?

my dad used a nut-breaker and broke it off. We also got the metal sleeve off the passenger side with a pipe wrench and a 5 foot pipe on it!

Shock mount bushing I threw in the freezer Saturday night, haven't been able to get back to it. Hopefully today or tomorrow. Worst case, I'm off on Wednesday.

Awesome, the nut buster is a good one.

The lower shock bushing will submit.