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ECU reprogramming that's not gonna ge me in **** with the dealership
Well as the title says my upcoming mods are:
3.9 FD Motordyne Plenum spacer Nismo catback Exhaust UR HF cats Popcharger What I'm wondering is: would a simple reflash do the trick or would I yield better results another way? I would prefer the dealership not know that I'm screwing around with the electronics, you know why. Any applications that are stealth? |
dealer isnt going to know you have a reflashed ECU
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I have emanage ultimate and all the mods listed in my signature and the dealer couldnt tell.
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UTEC is supposed to be invisible to scans. I don't have it nor can i confirm, but thats what i've been told.
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AAM's ECU flash would be really hard to detect...no physical difference.
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Originally Posted by genegoesfast
I have emanage ultimate and all the mods listed in my signature and the dealer couldnt tell.
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Flash is not detectable like Chebosto said. Also, unless you are getting your car tuned on a dyno, I wouldn't waste money on a flash.
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I plan on getting it dyno tuned so more than a flash is necessary right?
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Originally Posted by Dildorado
I plan on getting it dyno tuned so more than a flash is necessary right?
What you choose will depend on you; how $ you want to spend, how often you're planning to re-tune it (which also depends on how many more modifications you'll be doing after the tune), and what shops are around you (there's not always someone available to tune what you have...) in general, here's the differences: AAM's flash: removes top speed limiter, moves redline point, tunes car. Available for dyno tune (if you live near MD...I know Mike can fly out to tune cars, but I'm not sure if he's able to carry all the flash equipment w/ him). PPL usually do a flash if they're going to have someone else do it and they don't plan on getting a lot of re-tunes done. I had done a dyno of the car before the ECU flash - I sent it with the ECU to MD (I live in Seattle) and AAM Flash my ECU...when I got it back, I re-dynoed it to check AF's and power...the AF was perfect and there was real power gains. piggy back (UTEC or similar): requires a bit more $$ up front for hardware (UTEC unit, different sensors, controls,...), if you're going to tune it yourself and plan to do it a few times, this might save you $ in the long run...but if you plan to always have someone tune your car, then there's a re-occuring cost of the dyno/tune time. hope that helps and clarifies the different options you have. If you can give more info, we might be able to help you out in what's best for you. -Peter |
Thanks, the shop I'm going to are supposed to be good with e-manage ultimate. Would that be overkill? Next summer I'll probably get more mods as well so i'll have to re-tune once in a while. What I'm most worried about is dealership detection.
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Originally Posted by Dildorado
Thanks, the shop I'm going to are supposed to be good with e-manage ultimate. Would that be overkill? Next summer I'll probably get more mods as well so i'll have to re-tune once in a while. What I'm most worried about is dealership detection.
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Dyno tuning is just that tuning [peaking] it so it maximizes dyno numbers.
In the real world especially summer heat you may wish you were less aggressive in wanting the Nth degree. Why factory leaves 10% on the table to be safe as the miles pile up or to protect against defective gasoline or poor maintenance. Since dealer only has two sources of income YOU and Nissan Warranty they usually are friendly. |
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