Thread bump.

Actually doing a very similar thing on my g35 sedan right now. First time tuner and using the Link G4+ 350z plugin ecu as well. Im working through dialing in the fuel table but have needed to pause in order to sort out an rpm triggering issue. My ecu is artificially reading a spike in rpm which is causing fuel cut and interrupting any tuning as well as ruining drivability. Tried swapping the cam sensors as the Link G4 only reads one cam sensor and it seems to have helped but not remedied the issue so still more troubleshooting to do.

One question for you, without setting up any knock software, how/why did you decide on that initial ignition table? Mine ignition table is currently still set on the default settings preloaded in the 350z base tune from Link.

Additionally, have you gained any more insight onto your plans for the car this spring? For what its worth, my g35 is also demonstrating this inefficiency at 2750rpm. I initially was concerned by it as well and smoothed it to look like a 'proper' fuel table. But after revisiting that rpm again it really seems to like the fuel table be decreased at that rpm so I have reverted it back those values and plan to leave it at that

Follow up
 

Hi! I am glad I am not the only one.😃

The 2750rpm comes down to the fuel pump and rails getting some pressure waves. I am planning for a full return system. But today I am just tuning it out. It is even more obvious with my new gtr injectors
the initial ignition was the default one. Our car are not probe to knock if you use 93oct and conservative ignition. It takes a lot to knock.

As far as reading rpm. The g4 uses both 1 cam and the main crank sensor. Did you try to run a trigger log? Finally, timing is key. Have you done the timing config?

Are you using wideband closed loop fuel control?

Did you replace your crankshaft position sensor too?

+1 to the trigger log and you can use Link's built-in oscilloscope feature to further monitor / log your trigger sensors.

if you have the cash, check out High Performance Academy - they have a bunch of content on both the Link G4+ on a 350z … it's a great resource.

For tune modification I am leaving everything on open loop, however after im done editing i switch it back to closed loop for the ecu to make minor corrections. And the Link ecu is working with the 0-5V output from my Innovate wideband.

I actually have plenty of HPA courses. Gone through them over the last year as I finished up graduate school and was preparing for this endeavor.

And I have used the trigger scope feature built into the ecu and it looks 'decent'. Polarity doesn't appear to be messed up and Im getting good readings for each tooth that passes the sensor. The weird part is that it takes a bit of time before the voltage actually drops down to the baseline. Notice where the yellow cursor is, it appears to be on a step and not quite at the baseline voltage. For what its worth I have attempted this trigger scope using the original cam sensors at idle and 4k rpm. And repeated that again after I swapped the cam sensors and all of the trigger scopes show similar features. Of course leading to the conclusion that the cam sensors are not the culprit.

I don't have another crankshaft sensor on hand to test, so unfortunately haven't been able to check that off the list yet. I did initially set up the timing configuration prior to first start-up and i believe it to all be set up correctly. Of course that is something I need to double check now that this issue is arising.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....450212585e.png

Would you have a pc log of the event ? I'd like to try to help you figure it out. The trigger scope looks normal to me. So this definitively somewhere else.

Car update:

My car is on the rack, again, sigh! I've been doing hpde and recently time trials with the SCCA. Well, this thing is getting expensive and as I am pushing the car more and more, I am hitting race car budget level in terms of maintenance cost.

I busted my second koyo radiator. It seems that it is failing from the lower driver side. So I went with a Mishimoto radiator this time. but before I just replaced everything, I've decided to go with solid engine mounts to prevent any tension by the lower radiator hose. The main difference between the 2 brands is that the Mishimoto is gravity fed vs the koyo is side fed. time will tell which on works longer !

I bought Z1 solid mount from a facebook user, he sent me the Z34 version. fortunately, the Z34 version is an extended Z33 with a 3/4 inch extension that can be removed. It is using the same bolts/threads of a Z33 but ,I suppose, are a bit longer than needed.
Another thing that bothered me is the smell of exhaust in the cabin. since I could smell it with the windows down. I diagnosed it as a header leak. So while I planned for the new mounts, I've decided to do the headers at the same time. ConceptZ had the ISR long tube for $499 so I had to get my Credit Card out.

After last year event, I've noticed on how my shifting was bad. I would loose 3-5mph per shift on my ecu log. and while I am nowhere slow. I think my 130kmi clutch needs to be refreshed for this season. So again,got the CC out and purchase a stage 2 clutch from ConceptZ.

Finally, my favorite course is the Shenandoah track in Summit Point, WV. 18 turns in a 2.2mi lap. I mostly use 3rd and 4th gears but lack acceleration exiting corners. I know I could use 2nd gear but shift time loss would nullify the added acceleration. So it is also time for me to change my oem 3.53 final drive to a 3.9 gear set from nissan. at the same time, I ordered a tomei 1.5W lsd because the vlsd fails on me after 4 or 5 laps.

So as you can tell , I am busy working on my car to get it ready for the march 28th event where I am going to try to become an scca instructor.

Now, some early reviews.

1. Z1 solid 6 shooters. Lightweight, smaller diameter, pain to install if you keep your headers on. I had my headers off and it does help a lot. The longer bolts forced me to lift the engine 4" off the subframe.

2. ISR long tube headers. I am surprised by the quality of the welds, pipe have a good size wall size ( good for longevity, time will tell) and save 4lbs compared to the oem headers and berk test pipes. I might have to have a friend weld a support brace onto them as they are only supported by the header bolts. my bank 1 O2's are being eliminated so I can use 2 Innovate LC2 widebands , so no need for extending them since the bungs are now located under the tranny. I'll use the O2 inputs of my G4+ so I will need to splice the main harness connector.
I can't wait to get it running so I can see what kind of VE gains I am getting. I know the DE won't gain much due to the small cams but at least the smell should stay away from the cabin, if I do things right.
Finally, Do believe what they say about header install. It is a real pita, 1 pita to get oem headers out. 2. pita to install new headers as studs are not easily accessible.

3. The stage 2 clutch from conceptZ includes a 19lbs flywheel. I havent installed it yet but craftsmanship is top notch and while I am in there. I will update the clutch fork to the 2004 forged model. getting rid of the stamped metal one.

4. diff will be updated with the tomei LSD and 3.9 gears. from my calculation , this should help me stay in the powerband after shifting in the main 2 corners before the longest straights. So this alone should help me reach the 1.40's on the track. but this depends on how much the powerband will shift with the long tube headers.

But while my car is apart, I am planning to tune my cams on the dyno before my next track day. I have a shop that let me tune my car myself. Just need to find time for it.

Unfortunately enough I haven't been able to catch it to happen while I have the laptop plugged in. I did just set up ECU logging so I can attempt to catch it on that. I also ordered a brand new hitachi crank sensor so i will replace that and see if it persists. Its a very intermittent issue as is so I won't know if its reoccurring until it just happens or doesn't...

And regarding your car, I have ISrR longtubes on my car and i have been very pleased with them. I have PPE longtubes on my old z and Ive been equally happy with both of them, which is enormous considering the ppe come with an $1200+ price tag

If you haven't solved the issue I would contact Links customer support. They usually answer quickly.

I have a G4+ tuned in volymetric mode for E85. Currently the engine is supercharged and puts out 530 hp. I really like the ecu. It's in a different world compared to my old Uprev. Has anyone used the OEM inputs and outputs that are not in use? I would like to get one more voltage input for variable launch control. Now I have only one extra through expansion connector that is connected to fuel pressure sensor.

I have - I had to program my widebands, oil pressure sensor, coolant pressure sensor, and fuel pressure sensor...

I wanna see if I can program on to take a 0-5volt reading from a sliding potentimeter hooked to my coilovers to see how much down force the car makes at speed ...

I just did. In my install of the isr headers, I did disconnected the bank 1 o2 and strip the oem inputs ( an 10 and an11, pin 16 and 35) with the innovate controller outputs.
i just disabled the aux outputs and reconfigured the inputs as wideband.

I used pins 10 and 11 for my two widebands - eventually had to turn off pin #11 as it was deemed unnecessary (to the link for a single exhaust) It's still plugged into the car and I can turn pin 11 on to get it's reading if pin 10 ever dies

are you running 4 widebands? what are you input'ing to pin 16 and pin 35?

I love this feature with the link...you have a healthy amount of inputs (albeit, theyre analog) and you can program them any way you want!!!! God Bless America, and Canada, and New Zealand … and the world!!!

no, just 2 wideband now. got rid of all other o2.
pin 35 is an10 and pin 16 is an11 if I am not mistaken.
pin 2 and 53 I believe are the heater aux outputs
will have to check link wiring for validating

I'm confused … you're right … I have my o2s in AN10 and AN11 (not pins 10 & 11).

Base map
 

Any chance you'd be willing to share your base map, before you updated the headers?

I just got my car back from the tuners and only getting 197whp. As you can imagine, not too keen on sending it out to another tuner again.

Well, it'll only work if you had the same mods as mine. Any reason why the tuner couldn't get to close to oem power?

Send me your current map and a pc log of a pull in 3rd or 4th gear. I'll look at it.

Yea, I'd be more than happy to share my map with you but you wouldnt want to do this unless you wired your car exactly how I have mine wired and that is practically impossible.

Likewise - if you wanted me to review you tune and I can compare it to some base-maps for an NA engine … but something isnt right at 197hp on these cars...you should be close to 240hp NA OEM/some bolt-ons.

Interesting this looks like a good alternative to the haltech

I've got The LINK G4X......
It works Great. :)

Learned something new over the weekend...

I had a few RPM limit cuts and it wasnt automatically discernible what triggered the RPM cut nor when exactly the RPM limit cut occurred in my runs. I chatted with Link and if you Data Log the value "Limits Flags Word" this will identify what category the limit sprouted from and when it occurred.

Funny enough, I have been running the G4+ on my single turbo Z for about 3 years now. Just upgraded to an aluminum flywheel and ran into some RPM limit cuts. I noticed that in my logs there were Trig 1 errors right around the point that the rpm cut happened. Was consistent at about 6000rpm. I think it was a minor defect in the trigger ring. I dropped the trig 1 filter level from the default 2 down to 1 and was able to rev it back up to redline again. Seems like it was over filtering the trigger and as soon as there is an error it cuts RPM