Rotor and pad install
 

Again this car gives me a pain in the ***...

I attempted to change the pads and rotors tonight. After reading the great How To sticky it seemed simple. I got the pads off no problem, but the trouble appeared when I went to remove the other 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place, which allows for the rotor to be taken off...

At first I thought to remove the bolts that look like they are part of the suspension, but that didn't seem correct.. sure enough after searching around I found 2 other bolts. But they didn't seem like they held anything together... :confused:

Either way, I couldn't get either of those damn things off.. so I resigned and left this job for another day. Can anyone clarify which bolts you need to remove to get the rotors off???

Also, is there a big difference in this process for the rears?

If you changed the pads you must have got the caliper off. If the caliper is of, the rotor will come off. There aren't any bolts holding just the rotor on. If yoy have any mor ?'s feel free to ask. I just replaced all four rotors and pads on all four wheels with no problem.

Matt

He must be talking about those huge 22mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket. My advice is a good breaker bar and some elbow grease, that is what I used. Once the caliper is off the rotor might need a couple smacks from a rubber mallet to release the rust on the center hub then it should come right off. Try to support the caliper and don't just let it hang from the brake line while you replace the rotor.

why not remove just one of those bolts (22mm)- this will allow for the caliper to swivle up or down, depending on the bolt you remove. this is good in that you dont have to worry about support the caliper while pad and rotor removal and installation. also keep in mind to do one side at a time to prevent the piston(s) from extending past their normal point and breaking the seal. i used a device on each caliper that pushes the pistons back into the caliper- this allows for easy installation of the new pads and rotors.

john

Removing just one of the bolts will not allow the caliper to clear the rotor.

If you cannot figure which bolts hold the caliper in place then maybe you shouldn't be doing this, just look at the back of the caliper andsee which ones hold it as mentioned they are two big ones about 4 inches apart, it is not that hard.

It is hard to get a breaker bar in there, the space is tight unless you have it up on a lift, you will have to use your longest wrench usually the 1/2" drive on and some persuasion like a rubber mallet to hit on the end of the wrench.

The last thing you will encounter are that the rear rotors have a pressed fit so you will have to work them back and forth to have them come out.

we are talking about the TWO MAIN bolts that attach the caliper to the hub correct? front or rear shouldn't matter (i think i will check). i know for a fact if you remove one of the the two main bolts you can then swing the caliper off the rotor. its been more than 6months since i did a pad and rotor change- and can;t remember if removing that bolt cleared the rotor. i know it can be done for pad maitnence. i will check when i get home.

john

I am pretty sure we are talking about the two big ones that attach it to the hub since he seems to have gotten past the pad install and is talking about the rotor removal.

For pad change you only have to remove one of the sliding pins to swing the upper portion of the caliper up to have access to the pads still in the lower portion which is still attached to the hub by the two big bolts. Now this is all assuming he has stock brakes, if they are Brembo then you do not have to unbolt anything to replace pads but you still have the two big bolts attaching it to the hub.

ahh thats why i love BBKs, very easy pad replacement.

john

The 22mm bolts then.. got it. Once those are off I think I am good to go. As for not lettign the caliper dangle, I used a wire hanger and hung it off the suspension parts.

What is this about "breaking the seal" on the piston? I hope I didn't do that by accident.

(edit) Yes, I have the non-Brembo brakes

That is only if you were to apply the brakes with the calipers off and nothing to stop the piston from coming out.

I didn't do that luckily. Ok, seems like I know what to do. Thanks everyone!

tru.


john

What brand rotor and pads did you get?

I got Rotora slotted rotors and Project Mu B-Force pads for all 4 corners! I am anxious to get them on, as I am at my wits end with the dust and squeeking.

OK... I got the install done on the fronts... had to stop cause of rain :icon31: before I could hit the rears.

There is alot of play where you can put the new pads in... should they be touching the new rotors? Or will the piston take care of the correct distance after doing a few stops? Also, on the stock rotors there is a screw that holds the rotor to the axle (I think thats it).. the aftermarket does not have this screw. Any reason for concern?

1. the first time you apply the brakes the piston will push the pads back out.

2. The screw on the rotor is only there to prevent you from installing the rear wheels on the front since they are different sizes.

Thanks for the help westpak! Doing this sort of project on your own for the first time sort of makes you feel uncertain... I mean, its the brakes for goodness sake! Will my car stop after this or did I mess up for the last time!! :icon17:

Trying to post pics..
 

I attached a pic of my rotor after bedding... if it works that is..

That's not true. The rear rotors are completely different from the front rotors, since the rears include the drum for the parking brake. Nissan did not design a rotor retaining screw simply to prevent a mechanic from accidentally installing a rear rotor in front. The rotor retaining screw is there to hold the rotor in place. It prevents the rotor from shifting slightly when the wheel is off, keeping the holes in the hub and the rotor lined up properly.

It's not a disaster that your replacement rotors came without a provision for the rotor retaining screw. Some cars don't even use them. But it indicates carelessness on the part of the manufacturer to leave it off. Any good quality rotor manufacturer like Balo, Zimmerman, Brembo, ATE, or Performance Friction will include all the original design features of the factory part.

I said WHEELS not ROTORS. I assumed he was reffering to the little bolt on the front of the front rotors that is there so the rear wheels wont fit on the front specially since he said he has only done the fronts so far.