350z NA Suggestions
08-12-2014, 12:52 PM
#22
New Member
08-12-2014, 06:53 PM
#25
As a borla owner I can tell you unless you have the cats removed it is SLIGHTLY louder then stock, and by slightly I mean I was VERY disappointed in the money I spent. The tone was nice, no leaks, great fitment. It took test pipes to make me happy with volume, and even with test pipes I wish it were a bit louder.
08-12-2014, 08:43 PM
#26
New Member
iTrader: (4)
I would go with OEM clutch, but I have heard good things about the JWT clutch.
How many miles does the car have? Depending on that since you are changing the clutch you might as well do some other basic maintenance on the car. For instance, without a doubt change the diff fluid and tranny fluid. I recommend Redline fluid for both.
Since you don't know about cars it is difficult to say what to do. When my clutch went on my Sentra, I took the opportunity to really look over the underneath of the car and engine bay to see if any maintenance was needed.
Change the clutch, the fluids, spark plugs, etc.
An exhaust will add some performance, but most people get them for sound. Some people like the Borla but in my opinion you have way better options for the price. Depending on how loud you want I would check out companies such as HKS, Motordyne, Tomei, Agency Power, Nismo (discontinued), and Greddy.
How many miles does the car have? Depending on that since you are changing the clutch you might as well do some other basic maintenance on the car. For instance, without a doubt change the diff fluid and tranny fluid. I recommend Redline fluid for both.
Since you don't know about cars it is difficult to say what to do. When my clutch went on my Sentra, I took the opportunity to really look over the underneath of the car and engine bay to see if any maintenance was needed.
Change the clutch, the fluids, spark plugs, etc.
An exhaust will add some performance, but most people get them for sound. Some people like the Borla but in my opinion you have way better options for the price. Depending on how loud you want I would check out companies such as HKS, Motordyne, Tomei, Agency Power, Nismo (discontinued), and Greddy.
08-13-2014, 04:13 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes I know its the legit one, all leather, Silverstone, Redline Rev Starts at 7 so I know its a Rev-Up 6MT Engine. Brembo Brakes, Navi, etc.
08-13-2014, 04:14 AM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
And what do you mean by the coolant looks "shot"?
08-13-2014, 04:16 AM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
As a borla owner I can tell you unless you have the cats removed it is SLIGHTLY louder then stock, and by slightly I mean I was VERY disappointed in the money I spent. The tone was nice, no leaks, great fitment. It took test pipes to make me happy with volume, and even with test pipes I wish it were a bit louder.
I used to be into loud exhaust but it's just not me anymore.
08-13-2014, 04:55 AM
#31
New Member
The good thing about car fluids is that you can visually tell for the most part if they need to be changed. For instance, your coolant should be a neon green, like a bright neon green. Over time it discolors and turns into something that looks like it came out of a juicer lol. Discoloration shows the age and wear of the fluid.
Since you only have 40k miles and as long as your coolant level is good and you don't have overheating issues, I would leave it. You be the judge really. If it looks disgusting then change it.
Same goes for engine oil and tranny and diff fluid. Over time the color darkens and becomes sludgy. It is the oil and fluid getting used and dirty. When I changed the tranny fluid and engine oil on my Sentra for the first time, I couldn't believe how disgusting both looked. It looks like the tranny fluid was never changed (200k miles) and the engine oil looked like the person just kept topping off oil and never actually changed it. Let's just say the car drove WAY better than it did before.
Since you only have 40k miles and as long as your coolant level is good and you don't have overheating issues, I would leave it. You be the judge really. If it looks disgusting then change it.
Same goes for engine oil and tranny and diff fluid. Over time the color darkens and becomes sludgy. It is the oil and fluid getting used and dirty. When I changed the tranny fluid and engine oil on my Sentra for the first time, I couldn't believe how disgusting both looked. It looks like the tranny fluid was never changed (200k miles) and the engine oil looked like the person just kept topping off oil and never actually changed it. Let's just say the car drove WAY better than it did before.
08-13-2014, 05:14 AM
#32
Registered User
You keep saying that your clutch is "shot", what are you basing that on? Is it slipping? Dragging? Or are you basing it on the bite point being high on the pedal? If that is the case then your clutch may be OK as the bite point is high on all 350Z's. For example a good friend of mine who is a mechanic (but hasn't worked on the 350Z) took a drive in mine not long after I'd bought it and his first words when he returned was that the clutch was on its way out and it took me showing him the invoice showing that it had a new clutch 2k miles before I bought the car and me explaining about the high bite point.
08-13-2014, 05:36 AM
#33
Registered User
mods can you remove this post as I'm having problems with my laptop. I write a post hit 'post quick reply' and nothing happens, it looks like its been deleted then I rewrite my comment hit 'post quick reply and then both comments are posted, feckin thing.
Last edited by samsniss350z; 08-13-2014 at 05:42 AM.
08-13-2014, 05:53 AM
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
The good thing about car fluids is that you can visually tell for the most part if they need to be changed. For instance, your coolant should be a neon green, like a bright neon green. Over time it discolors and turns into something that looks like it came out of a juicer lol. Discoloration shows the age and wear of the fluid.
Since you only have 40k miles and as long as your coolant level is good and you don't have overheating issues, I would leave it. You be the judge really. If it looks disgusting then change it.
Same goes for engine oil and tranny and diff fluid. Over time the color darkens and becomes sludgy. It is the oil and fluid getting used and dirty. When I changed the tranny fluid and engine oil on my Sentra for the first time, I couldn't believe how disgusting both looked. It looks like the tranny fluid was never changed (200k miles) and the engine oil looked like the person just kept topping off oil and never actually changed it. Let's just say the car drove WAY better than it did before.
Since you only have 40k miles and as long as your coolant level is good and you don't have overheating issues, I would leave it. You be the judge really. If it looks disgusting then change it.
Same goes for engine oil and tranny and diff fluid. Over time the color darkens and becomes sludgy. It is the oil and fluid getting used and dirty. When I changed the tranny fluid and engine oil on my Sentra for the first time, I couldn't believe how disgusting both looked. It looks like the tranny fluid was never changed (200k miles) and the engine oil looked like the person just kept topping off oil and never actually changed it. Let's just say the car drove WAY better than it did before.
Engine Oil I just changed it so I'm not too worried, I see no overheating. As for as the Tranny and Diff Fluid I will check later, did not know about those nor do I know what the hell those fluids are responsible for.
08-13-2014, 06:04 AM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
You keep saying that your clutch is "shot", what are you basing that on? Is it slipping? Dragging? Or are you basing it on the bite point being high on the pedal? If that is the case then your clutch may be OK as the bite point is high on all 350Z's. For example a good friend of mine who is a mechanic (but hasn't worked on the 350Z) took a drive in mine not long after I'd bought it and his first words when he returned was that the clutch was on its way out and it took me showing him the invoice showing that it had a new clutch 2k miles before I bought the car and me explaining about the high bite point.
I know 350z have a high point clutch catch but that's not my subject. I'm not sure how to say this but does the car suppose to give a hard shake if you dont rev match to the next gear? I know when I was learning manual for the first time my friend who was teaching me said "all cars are different" so maybe thats just how the feel is for the 350z when the rev doesnt catch? However here's the thing, when I get an inexperienced manual driver to drive my car and he/she keeps messing up the rev catch point for shifting up/down and when we park I smell the clutch burning from the outside (not inside). Is that because he was burning the clutch because he was inexperienced?
Also about the "all cars are different" when I drove my friends 2014 Subaru BRZ even though I messed up the rev points for shifting she didnt shake as hard as my 350z, only very slightly indicating it wasn't a perfect shift. Could that change be made on my 350z by changing the clutch?
Another pointer is that I had a friend drive my 350z explaining the whole thing and he said it's the pressure plate of my car thats messing up the whole shift. Apparently when I push the clutch all the way in, while it comes back up theres a certain lagg, and when it gets 3/4 to the top it becomes silky smooth, WEIRD. He just says that and says nothing is wrong with my clutch.
Is the car suppose to make a sound when I engage the clutch? Like on first or second gear when I engage the clutch and when I have the music off I can hear something clatter/chatter. Only when I engage the clutch on those gears. When i'm on higher gears there is no chatter or any sort (regardless of RPM).
I also have a brake question. Car came with Brembo brakes (was informed I wouldn't tell a difference between stock and brembo until I took it to track). My first experience with car brakes is that if you tap it just slightly the whole car response real fast to stoppage. My brakes are different. When I push in about an inch it doesnt react that way, instead it slows my car VERY slowly, after that inch increment I have to push HARDER to stop the car FASTER. Any ideas on this?
08-13-2014, 06:28 AM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
the RPMS does not jump on such higher gear (and I tend to go higher gear on low speeds occasion to save gas) the engine struggles to raise the RPM but thats normal since its on a higher gear with such low speeds.
but as the clutch pedal is it suppose to be smooth all the way in and out? It really feals some sort of lag 3/4 on the way out then the rest of the top inch is buttery smooth. Like I said my friend claims its the pressure plate.
08-13-2014, 06:29 AM
#38
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The brz has a smaller engine then your Z, it will be easier to rev match. It will jump if your far off rpm wise when you switch gears. The clutch noise your hearing is probably the throw out bearing. They are loud in these cars, it's probably ok. But I can't hear it through the internet.
I'll explain it as best as I can.
I know 350z have a high point clutch catch but that's not my subject. I'm not sure how to say this but does the car suppose to give a hard shake if you dont rev match to the next gear? I know when I was learning manual for the first time my friend who was teaching me said "all cars are different" so maybe thats just how the feel is for the 350z when the rev doesnt catch? However here's the thing, when I get an inexperienced manual driver to drive my car and he/she keeps messing up the rev catch point for shifting up/down and when we park I smell the clutch burning from the outside (not inside). Is that because he was burning the clutch because he was inexperienced?
Also about the "all cars are different" when I drove my friends 2014 Subaru BRZ even though I messed up the rev points for shifting she didnt shake as hard as my 350z, only very slightly indicating it wasn't a perfect shift. Could that change be made on my 350z by changing the clutch?
Another pointer is that I had a friend drive my 350z explaining the whole thing and he said it's the pressure plate of my car thats messing up the whole shift. Apparently when I push the clutch all the way in, while it comes back up theres a certain lagg, and when it gets 3/4 to the top it becomes silky smooth, WEIRD. He just says that and says nothing is wrong with my clutch.
Is the car suppose to make a sound when I engage the clutch? Like on first or second gear when I engage the clutch and when I have the music off I can hear something clatter/chatter. Only when I engage the clutch on those gears. When i'm on higher gears there is no chatter or any sort (regardless of RPM).
I also have a brake question. Car came with Brembo brakes (was informed I wouldn't tell a difference between stock and brembo until I took it to track). My first experience with car brakes is that if you tap it just slightly the whole car response real fast to stoppage. My brakes are different. When I push in about an inch it doesnt react that way, instead it slows my car VERY slowly, after that inch increment I have to push HARDER to stop the car FASTER. Any ideas on this?
I know 350z have a high point clutch catch but that's not my subject. I'm not sure how to say this but does the car suppose to give a hard shake if you dont rev match to the next gear? I know when I was learning manual for the first time my friend who was teaching me said "all cars are different" so maybe thats just how the feel is for the 350z when the rev doesnt catch? However here's the thing, when I get an inexperienced manual driver to drive my car and he/she keeps messing up the rev catch point for shifting up/down and when we park I smell the clutch burning from the outside (not inside). Is that because he was burning the clutch because he was inexperienced?
Also about the "all cars are different" when I drove my friends 2014 Subaru BRZ even though I messed up the rev points for shifting she didnt shake as hard as my 350z, only very slightly indicating it wasn't a perfect shift. Could that change be made on my 350z by changing the clutch?
Another pointer is that I had a friend drive my 350z explaining the whole thing and he said it's the pressure plate of my car thats messing up the whole shift. Apparently when I push the clutch all the way in, while it comes back up theres a certain lagg, and when it gets 3/4 to the top it becomes silky smooth, WEIRD. He just says that and says nothing is wrong with my clutch.
Is the car suppose to make a sound when I engage the clutch? Like on first or second gear when I engage the clutch and when I have the music off I can hear something clatter/chatter. Only when I engage the clutch on those gears. When i'm on higher gears there is no chatter or any sort (regardless of RPM).
I also have a brake question. Car came with Brembo brakes (was informed I wouldn't tell a difference between stock and brembo until I took it to track). My first experience with car brakes is that if you tap it just slightly the whole car response real fast to stoppage. My brakes are different. When I push in about an inch it doesnt react that way, instead it slows my car VERY slowly, after that inch increment I have to push HARDER to stop the car FASTER. Any ideas on this?