2007 Altima engine Start/Stop button project
05-12-2007, 02:50 PM
#41
Registered User
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Orlando Fl
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Greg'Z33
Look, sure when you step back and look at what I'm trying to do, it does seem a little silly; no matter. It's a challenge now and I think once it's done, the cool factor will be pretty high.
Keep me posted.
Thank you
Cesar
05-13-2007, 03:51 PM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Progress (no kidding this time)
Well in a moment of pure serendipity, I found a dual hi/lo trigerred relay kit from Fry's Electronics near my home. I figured out how to design the START & STOP functions to work using this kit. The relays on this board will control larger Bosch 30A SPDT relays, one for the START function and one for the STOP function. "Egor, quickly back to the lab we have work to do......"[I]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by Greg'Z33; 05-14-2007 at 05:30 AM.
05-13-2007, 06:57 PM
#45
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Greg'Z33
Well in a moment of pure serendipity, I found a dual hi/lo trigerred relay kit from Fry's Electronics near my home. I figured out how to design the START & STOP functions to work using this kit. The relays on this board will control larger Bosch 30A SPDT relays, one for the START function and one for the STOP function. "Egor, quickly back to the lab we have work to do......"
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]And I thought reading the schematics for a F/A-18 Hornet were crazy...
05-13-2007, 07:03 PM
#46
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: .88 Mach at FL 410
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Haha exactly, schematics and diagrams with an F-16 make sense to me, yet I never thought I would have to think so hard with the Z lol. Cant wait to see how it works out, although I am sure it will be PITA to get it done.
05-13-2007, 07:09 PM
#47
Originally Posted by FairladyZ06
Haha exactly, schematics and diagrams with an F-16 make sense to me, yet I never thought I would have to think so hard with the Z lol. Cant wait to see how it works out, although I am sure it will be PITA to get it done.
LMAO
I hope this is a kit, i'll surely buy it.
05-13-2007, 09:37 PM
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: UCSB
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Didn't go through the whole thread so sorry if this is a stupid question, but I want to clarify something.
Are you planning to use the clutch switch that has to be depressed before you start the car to kill the engine? If so, I don't think that will work.
Are you planning to use the clutch switch that has to be depressed before you start the car to kill the engine? If so, I don't think that will work.
Last edited by Mr X; 05-13-2007 at 09:41 PM.
05-14-2007, 05:30 AM
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mr X
Didn't go through the whole thread so sorry if this is a stupid question, but I want to clarify something.
Are you planning to use the clutch switch that has to be depressed before you start the car to kill the engine? If so, I don't think that will work.
Are you planning to use the clutch switch that has to be depressed before you start the car to kill the engine? If so, I don't think that will work.
05-15-2007, 07:08 AM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I spent most of yesterday working on wiring up the START/STOP button assy. I had to re-engineer the LOCK, ACC, and ON LED's as they were all originally common anode (+), as well as sharing a surface mount 1.8k current-limiting resistor, and I had to make ACC and ON common ground; the LOCK LED is wired seperately because it will get its low or ground signal from the factory alarm system. I had to place a bunch of resistors in series for the LOCK LED and those are hidden in the pigtail. I cut off the original modular plug flush with the bottom of the button (for clearance concerns in the console) and I extended everything out on a 9-pin Molex male pigtail and then finished it off with some heat shrink tubing. This will allow for more mobility when placing the control box, plus I think it just looks better.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
05-15-2007, 03:30 PM
#53
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: UCSB
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Greg'Z33
Tell me why, please.
05-15-2007, 03:40 PM
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mr X
If it works the same way as my BMW, which it may not, all the switch does is disable the starter when the clutch isn't depressed. Think about it, every time you push the clutch in and out its cycling the switch, but the engine remains running.
05-15-2007, 05:51 PM
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: UCSB
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Greg'Z33
No, I'm not using the act of pushing the clutch in itself to shut the car off; rather with the clutch released there will be 0 volts at the gray/red wire at the clutch switch which will provide the appropriate low at Relay 1 of the control board (the STOP relay side). This will then allow the Bosch STOP relay to activate when the START/STOP button is pushed to shut off the car. This works because the 12 VDC that will be going through the ignition switch to the ON side of the harness passes through the normally closed switch contacts of the STOP relay. When the STOP relay is activated, the normally closed contacts will open, thus interrupting that 12 VDC to the ON side of the harness - the exact same thing as turning the ignition key from ON to ACC or LOCK.
