Review: Bilstein PSS10 Coil Over Kit
01-30-2009, 09:06 PM
#21
I installed my Bilstein PSS10 Coilover suspension kit last week, and just wanna try my best to share some information here.
The bilstein PSS10 is the new model. The difference between the old PSS9 is a bigger adjustment ****. It features 10 adjustments front and rear, with spring rates of 370 lbs front, and a progressive rear rate of 240-420 lbs rear. Ride height adjustable from -1.0" to -1.75" (front) & -1.0" to -1.75" (rear. minimum 1" lowering). The finish of the coilover is awesome and high end. However, it does not come with upper mounts, you have to use the stock one.
The bilstein PSS10 is the new model. The difference between the old PSS9 is a bigger adjustment ****. It features 10 adjustments front and rear, with spring rates of 370 lbs front, and a progressive rear rate of 240-420 lbs rear. Ride height adjustable from -1.0" to -1.75" (front) & -1.0" to -1.75" (rear. minimum 1" lowering). The finish of the coilover is awesome and high end. However, it does not come with upper mounts, you have to use the stock one.
The Pss10 is also valved differently vs the Pss9. John at Bilstein wasn't able to provided dyno plots, but he did send me a spread sheet which did show some basic valving differances. Their chart only listed 3 speeds, 2ips, 10ips and 20ips (comverted from meter's per second).
full soft front
low speed rebound -15%
low speed comp +29%
high speed rebound +8%
high speed comp +8%
full soft rear
low speed rebound +19%
low speed comp +62%
high speed rebound +33
high speed com +23%
full stiff front
low speed rebound +10%
low speed comp -2%
high speed rebound+4%
high speed comp-2%
full stiff rear
low speed rebound +42%
low speed comp +25%
high speed rebound +37
high speed comp +10
If you kill the progressive spring setup in the rear, your track experience will be a better one. I'm going to be working on a simple conversion adaptor to allow a 5" ID linear spring to be used with the Bilstein seat.
02-04-2009, 09:19 AM
#26
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02-24-2009, 02:51 PM
#27
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I wasnt tracking my lap times, but I did notice I was a few mph faster on some corner exits, also I was able to reach fifth gear on the straight away before the braking point, instead of the end of forth gear on the stock suspension (result of earlier acceleration entering the straight away)
However, after installing the coilover, I didnt lower it much. Only about 0.5 - 1 inch drop because I still wanted to align it back to factory alignment setting. (no camber arms yet) Therefore, it was the same alignment spec as the last track day.
As I said before, I didnt really lower it yet. I will do that all together with camber arms and corner weight.
Ya, I paid $1650+, it is quite expensive compared to other same price range coilover (no upper mounts included). But I believe this is the most comfortable coilover system with good performance oriented valving system available, so I gave it a shot. (I spent quite a bit of time doing research and reading the forum before I purchased them)
-Pat
However, after installing the coilover, I didnt lower it much. Only about 0.5 - 1 inch drop because I still wanted to align it back to factory alignment setting. (no camber arms yet) Therefore, it was the same alignment spec as the last track day.
As I said before, I didnt really lower it yet. I will do that all together with camber arms and corner weight.
Ya, I paid $1650+, it is quite expensive compared to other same price range coilover (no upper mounts included). But I believe this is the most comfortable coilover system with good performance oriented valving system available, so I gave it a shot. (I spent quite a bit of time doing research and reading the forum before I purchased them)
-Pat
OK, so from the "low budget coilover" PSS10 to the "high-end coilovers" like Ohlins DFV or Mine's Esta, isn't there something more track-orientated but with real-life cost?
ps. track-orientated, not "wooden"
02-24-2009, 02:55 PM
#28
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I used the HKS Hypermax LS+, but only for a while... after a blow in a hole, the rear died on me... Unfortunately I didn't meke it in time to test it at a track, and since HKS hasn't got a "real" service over here, I binned them...
Anyone tried them at a track?
Anyone tried them at a track?
02-25-2009, 04:34 AM
#29
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a car using street tires on a track is not a track car
a car using slicks on the street is not a street car
if you are after a coilover that will handle it's own at a typical club type track day, and remain composed on the street, then suggestions that I've used and enjoyed, and that have been well received by other members would be KW V3, Zeal Function Xs, Cusco Zero 2.
03-03-2009, 12:39 PM
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define "track oriented"
a car using street tires on a track is not a track car
a car using slicks on the street is not a street car
if you are after a coilover that will handle it's own at a typical club type track day, and remain composed on the street, then suggestions that I've used and enjoyed, and that have been well received by other members would be KW V3, Zeal Function Xs, Cusco Zero 2.
a car using street tires on a track is not a track car
a car using slicks on the street is not a street car
if you are after a coilover that will handle it's own at a typical club type track day, and remain composed on the street, then suggestions that I've used and enjoyed, and that have been well received by other members would be KW V3, Zeal Function Xs, Cusco Zero 2.
1) the super-torque generated by twin-turbo 350Z's.
2) the "0"-traction we have in our roads here in Greece.
3) pleanty of bumps.
4) NO control by the police...
causes the car to slide in 4th & sometimes 5th gear when you go "full throttle" at the road (No problem at the track). So I need something really good but not "wooden" since I won't cope with the bumps & holes of our roads.
A friend used the K3 at a J's S2000 and found them great but a bit too stiff... but then again, maybe he's overreacting...
03-26-2009, 04:56 AM
#34
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Hi, to the original poster - thanks for the review.
I'm over on g35driver a bit and don't frequent these boards a lot. Have a couple of quick questions for you about your install.
I have a set of these on order from Adam and I'm planning on installing them myself.
1) When you removed the upper mount did you need a spring compressor to keep the spring from flying out of the shock and killing you? Do you need a spring compressor to install the mount to the BilStein shock?
2) How did you get the upper mount attached - did you have to remove the adjuster **** to get the mount ontop of the shock body? Did you need to purchase any additional hardware because they were rusted/stripped?
3) Did you use air tools or hand tools?
Thanks again and thanks for an awesome review.
I'm over on g35driver a bit and don't frequent these boards a lot. Have a couple of quick questions for you about your install.
I have a set of these on order from Adam and I'm planning on installing them myself.
1) When you removed the upper mount did you need a spring compressor to keep the spring from flying out of the shock and killing you? Do you need a spring compressor to install the mount to the BilStein shock?
2) How did you get the upper mount attached - did you have to remove the adjuster **** to get the mount ontop of the shock body? Did you need to purchase any additional hardware because they were rusted/stripped?
3) Did you use air tools or hand tools?
Thanks again and thanks for an awesome review.
03-26-2009, 08:23 AM
#35
Hi, to the original poster - thanks for the review.
I'm over on g35driver a bit and don't frequent these boards a lot. Have a couple of quick questions for you about your install.
I have a set of these on order from Adam and I'm planning on installing them myself.
1) When you removed the upper mount did you need a spring compressor to keep the spring from flying out of the shock and killing you? Do you need a spring compressor to install the mount to the BilStein shock?
2) How did you get the upper mount attached - did you have to remove the adjuster **** to get the mount ontop of the shock body? Did you need to purchase any additional hardware because they were rusted/stripped?
3) Did you use air tools or hand tools?
Thanks again and thanks for an awesome review.
I'm over on g35driver a bit and don't frequent these boards a lot. Have a couple of quick questions for you about your install.
I have a set of these on order from Adam and I'm planning on installing them myself.
1) When you removed the upper mount did you need a spring compressor to keep the spring from flying out of the shock and killing you? Do you need a spring compressor to install the mount to the BilStein shock?
2) How did you get the upper mount attached - did you have to remove the adjuster **** to get the mount ontop of the shock body? Did you need to purchase any additional hardware because they were rusted/stripped?
3) Did you use air tools or hand tools?
Thanks again and thanks for an awesome review.
2. You must disassemble the adjustment system, slide the oem upper mount on, tighten the nut that secures the oem upper mount and then reassemble the adjustment system. Then you dial in your ride height by selecting or setting spring preload.
3. Can if you want, I do not as a rule, be carefull on the piston shaft nuts.
03-26-2009, 08:33 AM
#36
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1. The amount of tension exerted on the oem upper mounts is TOTALLY different between disassembling a G35 front oem shock and spring vs a 350Z front oem shock and spring. You will need to do something to contain the G35 springs tension on disassembly, use a spring compressor. With a lot less tension, I have never bothered with a spring compressor on a oem Z shock and spring, when it releases, it's a rather mild.
2. You must disassemble the adjustment system, slide the oem upper mount on, tighten the nut that secures the oem upper mount and then reassemble the adjustment system. Then you dial in your ride height by selecting or setting spring preload.
3. Can if you want, I do not as a rule, be carefull on the piston shaft nuts.
2. You must disassemble the adjustment system, slide the oem upper mount on, tighten the nut that secures the oem upper mount and then reassemble the adjustment system. Then you dial in your ride height by selecting or setting spring preload.
3. Can if you want, I do not as a rule, be carefull on the piston shaft nuts.
Thanks - did you ever find out about the min rear drop being 1 inch?
Also will I need a spring compressor to get the Upper mount attached shock or is there enough slack on the bolt and mounting nut? Just trying to plan out what I need. Thanks
03-26-2009, 08:49 AM
#37
You will not need a spring compresser to install the new setup. I do not believe you could get a spring compresson to seat in the Bilstein springs even if you tired because of the diameter and spacing vs oem springs.
03-26-2009, 09:53 AM
#38
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I would think that vs a oem 350Z's ride hieght, you should be able to get a bit more then a 1" drop (keeping in mind that G35 oem ride hieght is higher then the Z, so the drop will be greater in comparison). -1" to -1.3" sounds right to me, though my install did not center on how low I could go. And as of now, my dampers have been revalved and I am running different springs front and rear.
You will not need a spring compresser to install the new setup. I do not believe you could get a spring compresson to seat in the Bilstein springs even if you tired because of the diameter and spacing vs oem springs.
You will not need a spring compresser to install the new setup. I do not believe you could get a spring compresson to seat in the Bilstein springs even if you tired because of the diameter and spacing vs oem springs.
04-01-2009, 05:43 AM
#39
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Quick question: Are the Z PSS10 model will fit 03' G35 Coupe 6spd the same? I would think so, but just want to clarify. I suppose I would be purchasing the PSS10 for Z as oppose to purchasing for G35 since they don't manufacture one for G35.
Thanks
Thanks