spdkils

I bought a base model '05 for the purpose of FI, and lots of other mods.

I have a quaife on order, and its in the shop today for the RaceLogic TC install. (With the launch control, and full throttle shift.)

Has anybody else done this install? The shop was concerned about the stock traction control interfering with the RL one, however the base model doesn't have traction control. So I don't think that should be an issue...

Does anyone have any experience in this area?

SPDKILS

xswl0931

I was interested in getting the RaceLogic primarily for the launch control. How much did you get it for? Can you get some 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with the launch control?

spdkils

I've already G-Tech'd my 1st runs... I'm able to pull off a 5.5 as a best run without LSD, and without traction control. I hit .74g before my wheel busts loose when I tear into second to finish the run. I break traction @ .74g of acceleration consistently...

Because the RaceLogic has wheel speed sensors, and I have a laptop... I'll be able to compare the runs using the data logger software.

The G-Tech says I've got 208 HP (Ouch!)

And that was with a 3/4 tank of gas, and my fat brother in the car. 225 extra lbs... And I've added a lot of stereo. (2 10s in the rear, custom box, 2 diamond amps, reverse camera, etc, etc, etc)

My car weighed in at the local weigh station @ 1800/2000 (Front/Rear).


I should have the car back on Thur, or Fri... So I'll do some extensive testing then.

Oh yeah price...

The shop is local to me... Since I'm in the Portland OR area... They are the 'only' North American dealer/installer on RL web site... Lucky me.


A) RaceLogic base. (Just traction control installed on a 2005 350z); $995 + minimum of 8hrs for installation(installation time above the 8hrs really depends on the complexity of the vehicle) = $1595+

B) RaceLogic + Launch Control (Installed); $1295 + minimum of 8hrs for installation = $1895+

C) RaceLogic + Launch Control + Full Throttle Shift (Installed); $1295 + $175 + minimum of 8hrs for installation = $2070+

xswl0931

Thanks for the info. Looking forward to the test data

spdkils

Well I've got my car back...

Its really ODD when it kicks in...

I don't have any good pulls yet... The launch control was set @ 5500 and that is way too fast... I just light them up until TC control kicks in and corrects it...

Anyone know a good launch number? I'll cut 1500 off it and try it again...

It seems to function perfect in the corners... I haven't pushed it too hard yet. The only other anomily is that because it is causing missfires, your ECU thinks... WTF, my engine is screwed up... 'check engine'.

My brother has a scanner, so we're going to confirm the code, and clear it. It only comes back if we let it bouce on the new launch rev limit. But I did enough launches that my check engine light is perma-lit.

spdkils

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Do you have a 6MT or 5AT? What is this full throttle shift thing? Does it mimic a powershift?

spdkils

I have a 6MT.

Full throttle shift adds a temporary rev limit when the clutch is depressed... As you're pressing to release gear it will cap where you want... Then as you engange it will uncap.

So you basicaly keep the throttle pegged... Push the clutch... Shift... release... It helps keep boost in FI cars, and can save you some lag.

In NA cars the help isn't that much because the power isn't dependent on spinning turbos.

spdkils

Well the shop that set it up... Did a crappy job. IMHO... They went on and on about how it took 5 days to get me my car back... Because they wanted it to be perfect... And after simply changing all the settings in the RL from their config to the RL reccomended, it "seems" much smoother.

I'll have to drive it a few more days to confirm that my opionons of their "tune" are correct.

I used to feel it kick in on cornering, but it wasn't subtle at all. It was more like vroom/squeek/vroom/squeek/vroom. But like 2x a second... It felt very surgy.

Secondly the launch control wasn't able to hold the RPM I set...

Now they told me they were going to spend "2 hours" tuning it. So I assumed it was going to be all groovy...

I saved their settings and compared them to the reccomended settings from race logics manual... I typed in the cut patterns to Excel to see what % they were cutting, etc. What cylinders were cut how often, yadda yadda.

Anyway... The installer started me @ 50% cut, and increased from there. It cut every other injector pulse, and so my car even @ 3k RPM felt surgy. The manual reccomended a much more graceful increase... Starting @ 15% power cut, then 25%, then 35%, and capped out @ oh crap 65% cut.

Now that was for traction control. (It has 4 sets.. as you exceed the wheel spin you have dialed in, it increases the cut until you are back under what you have on the dial.)

For launch control you have two cuts.. Soft/Hard.

The "soft cut" for the rev limiter was set to 14 out of 20 pulses or 70% cut, and they set my "hard cut" @ 13 out of 20 pulses... 65% cut... Hummm the manual wanted 14/20 and 20/20. So 65% cut @ soft, 100% @ hard. So I went with their numbers since it would creep by 1k RPM or sometimes more when I set in a rev limit.

Now I over shoot the rev by maybe 250 RPMs. (I'll have to check the RL CPU to see what IT thinks my RPMs are... I may be dead on according to it... So I'll just have to adjust.)

After I remapped every one of their cut patterns, I started to check other settings... wheel speed, etc... The only thing I found there is that they had my fronts and rears set a differnt sizes in MM, and in affect my speed between my front and rear would deviate at higher speeds... (according to the RL CPU, so it was like the stock TC seeing staggerd sizes... started to think I was having wheel spin, and would at high enough speeds.... Cut power.) Now they may have a reason for a small offset to "narrow" the tolerances at higher speeds... but I don't know what that is... The manual says set them correctly... So I fixed them.


Blah blah blah boring boring boring... Did you peel out a lot, lose it in corners or what???

Well after about 6 corners... No I didn't spin out... I found a few nice and wide ones... and FLOORED THE GAS before the apex of the corner... 1st gear, and 2nd gear tests... Where I have enough power at those angles to break them loose... No breakage... I thought it was going to go... just a little... then a "slight" misfire would pass thru the system, and viola, I wasnt going to lose it... then here comes the edge of squeek again... and poof, its gone... VERY smooth, only a very slight power hesitation corrected it. (Oh about 15% hehehe according to what I set it @)

As I stated earlier... Before it was VERY surgey... I didn't lose it but the surges were terrible and HARSH.

So I had my doubts after yesterdays trials... but today I have a lot more confidence in the RL, and less in the shop. Where as yesterday I was thinking the RL was the problem, because they spent a lot of time "perfecting it for me". Today I'm leaning to a crappy tune from the tech.

No I don't have launch numbers yet... But I did clear my "service engine soon" light... It was "multiple missfires" and "multiple random missfires". Gee, I wonder what caused that?

With my less agressive settings, that light didn't even come back on...

I guess I can't speak all bad of their shop.. They did clean up my car real nice when they were done, wash it, and also did a VERY nice custom mount for the launch button.... But GOD the tune sucked... So for those of you with a "base" model... The jury is still out... I'll have to find some "launch time" soon, as well as push the corners harder, and @ a higher slip setting to see how far out the back end will go.


Sorry so sloppy, and sorry about the bad english... I went to public schools you know.

spdkils

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Not all turbo cars respond well to that, I know VW 1.8T's love to be powershifted. You know you coulda just learned how to powershift for free and it woulda done the same thing I would LOVE to hear what the car sounds like from outside on a WOT shift with this system, this is very cool that somebody has thought of this. Do you have a video camera? BTW it helps me in every car I drive when I race, even NA

spdkils

It was cheap in comparison to everything else I'm doing... So I threw it in there...

I'm actualy still waiting on a new clutch switch to enable that feature... I'm still working on the launch control, and standard traction control. I 'think' I've got the traction control piece all glitch free.

I've never even been to a race track yet, let alone drive on one... By the time I get this car done, I'll have much more power then skill. But there is a race course coming up in a few months... I just have to make sure my engine build isn't happening during that time... Or I may be driving my brothers 240...

I'll be damned if I spend all this time and money on the car and it never touches a track.

I'm crazy...

spdkils

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Does the rl unit have the ability to use OEM wheel sensors? It seems like it should be possible, and it would cut down installation time by 75% I would imagine.

Seems like a lot of cash, I hope it really cuts down on your 60'!

spdkils

I am using the OEM wheel speed sensors...

I did 2 launches yesterday late night...

The 1st didn't work properly because I messed up my shift... and the G-Tech thought I was done...

And the 2nd was horrible because I messed up my shift... I was more worried about watching the pretty lights, and listening to the revs and tire squeels then paying attention to what I was doing...

Anyway... I've still got a BIT too much wheel spin... But my 60' time according to "g-tech" is 2.1. (This is better then I was able to do manualy after about 5 launches.)

No finess... Just drop the hammer and go...

This is on base 17" wheels... NO LSD 245s in the rear. With a bit more meat, and a LSD, I may beat 2.0 @ that same RPM drop... (4400). The hope is it will be VERY consistent... So with the right tires getting to 2.0 or maybe even high 1.9s without thought... Press the button... Rev the motor... Drop the clutch... let the system do what it does... Once I "dial in" the perfect launch for the tires/track... Its just a matter of pressing the button...

Because it has two launch modes... You could use one for slicks, and the other for street tires... They suggest conditions... wet vs dry. But its just as easy to set them up for Track/Street.

With the ability to change everything using a laptop with a very easy to use interface... I think it could be used on a track very effectivly.

My 0-60MPH was 5.61xxx on the "wet" setting... I'm going to carve a few more RPMs out of launch, and possibly have the TC kick in sooner then the 25% and 20% that the DRY/WET settings allow. (This is all part of the straight line overide, as well as the margines that the launch contorl adds. Typical slip in a corner is 5-10% on those same settings.)

And that was 5.6 with an absolutly HORRIBLE shift... My shift was a full .55 seconds... So I should have hit 5.3 or less. My brother wasn't in the car... I'm hoping with practice, and tweaking I can hit 5.0 with no engine mods. That maybe a tall order... But I'm already doing better then the car mags rate the stock car @.

Anyway... More tweaking before I get very consistent numbers. Honestly I haven't really messed with it a lot... I'm so distracted by listening to my tires, and engine I'm not shifting very well of late. (My good shifts are still slow @ .2-3)

In hind sight... If the uiltimate lives up to its claims(PWR shift, and Launch control built in!!! Damn it!!!!!!!) I would buy the base RL again for a base model, do the install myself, and it would only run about 800 bones... The Greddy Ultimate cost me about 600 including the wiring harness, so we're looking @ 1400 vs the 2220 I ended up paying installed... Save yourself the extra costs of the RL... Unless of course the Greddy Ultimate is harder to tune then the RL.

If you go with Sharifs reccomendation of using and externder harness... That is about 260 bucks... So all said and done... Computer, RL, and wiring would end up about $1660. Less then I paid by several hundreds of dollars, and a better setup. (This is assuming the Greddy Ultimate PWR Shift and Launch work as well as the RL ones.)

I still love the TCS... I just hit WOT around any corner I want and it keeps me in line. It's a little unnerving to just jam the gas and take a round about... You think you'll lose control... but you dont... I hit about .85-9 Gs without losing traction with it "doing its thing" (My warning lights started flashing telling me I was almost @ 1g)

SPDKILS

mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

I am very interested if that will work on the Enthusiast already having the TCS

spdkils

It will... There is a way of disabling the stock TC by pulling the fuse, or by putting a switch in... I'll have to dig thru my mail... But I've researched this already.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

The UTEC will also also have full-throttle shift functionality. It doenst have the sophisticated traction control setup of the racelogic, but it does have launch control. I havent been an advocate for ditching the EU for the UTEC. But if someone has the EU already, this might be a good add on, with some terrific features. The UTEC's will hopefully be shipping before Christmas...FYI.

D-cell

post deleted

D-cell

I work at a performance Lexus/Niisan shop called Turboeast. I installed a Racelogic on a customers car we built. It didn't take 8 hours and as it is far superior to any other product on the market. This is true F1 style traction control. The launch control is very simpler. Push the button once, then hold the button, rev to the desired rpm, release the button and the gas pedal. Push the launch button, floor the car and it should "hover" at the launch rpm.
From the sound of things, something is not right with the install. The Racelogic is a quality product. It was virtually seamless on the IS300 I installed it on. The car made 630 rwhp, 580 tq, therefore it has the power to smoke the tires. It didn't throw any check engine lights and it accelerated like a raped ape,

mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

I am about to buy this,

I was wondering if you had a chance to take it to the track and what the results were.
Also overall since it's been a few months are you still happy with it?

Sins4u33

iTrader: (4)

this is a very popular setup for the supra community...most of them rely on it with the amnt of power and consitancy in there runs....its a very nice setup though, gotta love the abilitys of the racelogic unit....

Ben Y

spdkils

I still like the setup...

I haven't ever had my car on the track, and the last few months have been horrid weather. (wet+cold=slip)

I'm not running stock wheels/tires anymore, and I've had the Quaife installed. The RL has saved my *** more then once since I've developed bad driving habbits relying on it... (If in doubt... FLOOR IT!)

The RaceLogic will treat you right... You just have to tune it if the environment or car changes too much. The cold weather has dropped my traction to 3/4ths what it was in the summer, on top of that the rain isn't helping. Under these new "SLICK" conditions the amount of cut has to be tinkered with because your lose grip so much easier, so it takes more agressive cuts to stop it quickly.

The shop NEVER got back to me with a F/T shift switch, so basically I've written them off. Order it, take it to a shop you know, and have them install it. (Or do it yourself if you don't mind tinkering with wires in tight spaces.)

Spdkils