Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

oh lord here we go

shall I count how many of my customers across the country have blown motors using Amsoil? Or how about Mobil One? Or how about the "german" Castrol? Give me a break

I've been building, modding, racing cars all of my adult life. Stick to a KNOWN brand, with a good filter, that you change frequently, and I don't care what any marketing BS says, the motor will likely last longer than the car it's attached to. I've lurked on the oil sites since, well, forever. At the end of the day what you really can take away from them is that every manufacturer has cleverly (and quite blatantly) placed marketing people on there to "tout" whatever their recipe of the day is. It's merely another form of "passing the Kool Aid" if you will.

Unlike the guys on these so called "independant sites" (the biggest crock of **** going BTW) that have "opinions" and "lab tests" to back up their marketing claims, I've actually taken the time, in my own vehicles, on my own dime, without a single agenda, on my own cars ranging from high strung NA, to all out forced induction and have never, ever, ever, ever noticed a single difference in how the car runs from one oil to another. I've run Wolfs Head, I've run Motul, I've run Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Shell...you name it. If your car is so "on the edge" that an oil change magically alters how it runs, your motor has other issues going on that need more comprehensive attention. Personally, I run Valvoline. Why? Simple - they send it to me for free. Filters, I run Wix. Why? Simple - that's what my machinist told me to get. Are they the best? Who knows...I frankly don't much care. The guy who builds my motors told me that's what he would use...so that's what I use. Have I run other filters? Yep...everyone under the sun. Have I ever, ever blown a motor because of oil or an oil filter? Nope....not once, ever, in 14 years of owning, building, modding, racing or driving to the grocery store.

As for the "moly is specifically banned by Cummins", take a look at who regurgitates that info.....Amsoil dealers (whoopee, what a surprise). Lot's of Amsoil oils have alot of Zinc. Guess who tends to regurgitate that info? Bingo, people who sell oils other that Amsoil. It's a viscous circle, made up of marketing people, plain and simple. Personally, I don't care what Cummins recommends, or doesn't recommend, as I don't have one. Just like I don't care that Mobil One comes std on many "high end" cars, and just like I don't care that Ferrari Motorsports is a big user of Shell.

So what should you do? Simple - use what the manufacturer of the motor recommends. If the manufacturer is Nissan, use what they recommends (notice they don't recommend ANY specific manufacturer, only specific viscosities based on useage and location). If you have a built motor, use what the machinist recommends - he selected your bearings, he chose your tolerances and as such, he may have certain oil (or viscosities) in mind.

rednezz

iTrader: (1)

I don't know which oil is better or not but I can tell you I am one of the few NA motors that locked up without over reving, oil or water pump failure and having plenty of oil pressure. I had been running RP since after my initial beaking and did run alot of PCA and NASA track events. After inspecting my motor the bearings had alot of wear compared to other guys that had the same amount of track time with different oil. Don't really know if it was the oil because it could have been caused by oil starvation at high G loads. However, I can't rule that out. I am not saying don't use RP just want to give a heads up to those that race with RP.

nothingremains

iTrader: (5)

OK So I will ditch RP then! Thanks for alerting me of this!!

What recommened oil filter should I use?

Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

I just ditched RP for Mobil 1 0w40..

nothingremains

iTrader: (5)

why should you use 0w40 in the hot weather of texas?

blasian

iTrader: (29)

I'm using Amsoil... I like it, good enough for me

nothingremains

iTrader: (5)

What filter should I use? I have been using a mobil 1 advanced or something like that

blasian

iTrader: (29)

I'm using Amsoil now but prior to that I was using WIX.

Jay'Z

iTrader: (118)

You can use K&N filter sold at most advance auto or auto zone stores.. I believe its part number HP 1008 but dont quote me on that.. I usually use that filter..

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Lucas is not a very common oil, and the used oil analysis (UOA) done from other engines using this oil are not very good. It might be a good oil for the Z, but there is no data on it. Check this thread out for an explanation on and collection of UOA data:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html

Well said. Our formula SAE runs Amsoil because a dealer gives it to us for free. I've never used it in my own engine. I run a different oil every change to make a UOA comaprison. Rotella T-Syn is in my engine right now. And as I asked in my first reply to the OP, if you're happy with RP then why are you looking to change? Yes, there are better performing oils than RP based on used oil results, but any oil that's SM approved will do what Nissan needs it to do to keep the engine running. The odds of an oil causing a failure are slim compared to what else can go wrong in your engine.
If you are of the mind to run the best oil you can, then so be it. Brand bashing and false information abounds on every forum, and the half-truths and outright lies are unavoidable. Hence why I started the sticky posted above. Take the data for what it's worth, it's at least objective and without hype.
The oil forums are full of people that are out to set an agenda to visitors, and dealers are rampant pushers of their product. BITOG often feels like a gang of drug dealers prowling a playground of curous kids to the un-initiated or un-informed. There are knowledgeable people there, four of them I would listen to. There are also many other oils sites besides BITOG, but that was mentioned so that's where I quoted from. I don't endorse BITOG as the best oil site or source of information on oil, but it is a handy tool.
I have run many filters and oils and done UOA's after every one of them. Half of the oils I've used are no longer available because manufacturer's change formulations so often. It's a very cut throat and elitist market. There are oils that work better than others, however, and if that's what people feel better using then so be it. The gains will be negligable, but is often seen as extra insurance. For built motors, tracked engines, and those looking for extra long drain intervals, stepping up to a good oil makes sense to insure the performance remains for such conditions.
Your comment about zinc is exactly right. Zinc is metal and Amsoil uses tons of it, so should that be so bad for the engine since they claim Moly is a solid and it causes extra wear? Of course not. If it were Zinc Disulfide then perhaps it would be bad, and I would be as bad as Amsoil marketing for using half-truths to scare people from other oils. But zinc is used as an anti-wear and friction reducer just like MoTDC is used. It is formulated as an organometallic compound (exact same compound as MoTDC) known as zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. It is safe for and used in engine oil, just as MoTDC is.
This is just one example of how information can be manipulated and abused to make money. I'm not sure why oil tends to be so heated and controversial, but I hope to sort the bull from the fact in my posts.
If the OP goes to use Amsoil, then great. Ihe TSO 0W-30 has done well in the VQ. There are oils that are less expensive, more readily found, and perform just as good as Amsoil for his needs.
Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Hotter climates and conditions typically call for a thicker oil. Oil thins out with heat, and thin oil doesn't have the film strength to protect under high stress.
So, for hotter engines like FI or hot climates, a heavier weight oil tends to protect better. The 0W-40 is a nice choice of weight because it is good for year-round use, with a winter weight of 0 and a operating weight of a 40 grade. In Florida, I doubt you see a lot of cold winters below 40 degrees, so a 10W-30 wouldn't ever be a detriment to use. In Colorado, I would never use a 10W as it is too thick for adaquate start-up protection when it's single digit temps outside. But the 0W-40 grade would be perfect, and still work great for summer time use. So, it's a good all year oil no matter where you live. See the sticky on oil analysis and there is a whole write-up on understanding oil viscosity and grades about two posts into it on the first page.
Will

scratch137

iTrader: (7)

Im sorry for this extremely noobish question but i have read and read on this stuff and am somewhat lost. I use RP but used mobile-1 once since they where out of RP. Should i not use RP? I cant find this Amsoil stuff anywhere so do you think mobile-1 5w-30 or 10w-30 is ok? I live in Florida so idk if that helps at all. Also, and this i know is a dumb question, with the oil burnoff as stated in this thread, are you guys saying i should probably put in an extra quart of oil maybe halfway between oil changes. I usually change my oil every 3000ish miles. Please let me know if im doing anything wrong or answer my above questions. Thanks

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Amsoil has to be bought from a dealer, so you won't find it on a shelf. It has to be sent to you. There are online dealers, like the guy who posted earlier.

M1 is fine. M1 0W-40 has shown to have less wear and better performance than their other weights, and since all the M1 varieties cost the same, that's the one I would go with if you want to use M1. It's a very good oil.

RP won't destroy your engine, so if you like it then don't let people scare you into something else. There are better performing oils for sure, but what are you doing that you need the extra benefit? If anything, I would say save some money over the cost of M1, Amsoil, and RP and go with a less expensive oil like the PP 10W-30 or GTX 5W-30 that have shown excellent results for daily drivers who don't track the car.

The Amsoil info on oil burning off is in reference to a test for something called NOACK volatility. While the dealer in the sales pitch said to buy an extra qt for adding later, keep in mind they are out to sell more oil. So don't take it as fact. I have never had to add any make-up oil in 4 years with my Z, using a multitude of brands. Yours might be different, but a simple check of your oil level is all that's needed if you're unsure. If it is low half way through your oil change interval, just add what's needed to bring it to the full mark. Don't plan on adding an extra qt or so because the salesman says it's a good idea.

And again, please read this thread if you want to get some more info on oil and what brands/weights are working better than others. A UOA will show which oils tend to produce less metals by protecting an engine from wear, so check it out:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258663

Will

nothingremains

iTrader: (5)

I just bought Amsoil from Napa

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but I think that's on a store by store basis though, depending on what dealers are willing to work with them. My local NAPA stores don't carry Amsoil, but they do have a good selection of RL and Pentosyn. It varies. If your area NAPA stores stock it, you might be able to get a better price on your Amsoil from a dealer if the convienence of a store isn't important. How much was it at NAPA, and what did you get?
Will

rednezz

iTrader: (1)

I agree with Resolute that RP won't destroy your engine and not to let people scare you into something else. I only posted about my experience with my motor using RP because my friends that race use different brands and didn't have the wear on their bearings that my motor had. Who knows exactly why that happened. All I was trying to say is that under extreme conditions RP may not hold up. Oils that work fine for street use may not hold up for a 20 to 30 minute race flat out with RPM's never going under 5,000 rpm.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I don't doubt that RP would show extra wear over a high quality brand of the same weight. The UOA's done so far on the 10W-30 and 5W-30 both show higher wear metals than other brands, and the 5W-30 showed exceptional shearing had taken place to bump it down into a 20wt oil. When you consider the price of the oil, it seems like a waste.
That being said, the wear metals weren't on a scale to show damage occuring. Really, there isn't an API approved oil that would. But as you said, for track days and stressed engines, the engine's needs are different and a high quality oil is in order. The RP just didn't do very well compared to a lot of the other oils tested, so I would not consider it a high quality oil to use for track days or FI.
The daily driver wouldn't see it destroy his engine or anything, but there are so many oils that have shown better performance for half the price, I don't recommend RP.
Will

scratch137

iTrader: (7)

aaaah yes, finally some down right good answers. I will start to use M1 0W-40 and see how that goes. As far as oil change intervals, what do you think is appropriate for M1 0W-40? Also, any oil filter preference? I usually just go to pepboys and get the one that says for high performance oil, and that fits my car. Usually i get a PureONE i think is the name.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

Guess I'm making the switch to Mobil 0W-40!

QM888

iTrader: (1)

Is it true if you use synthetic oil for the car you cant change back to regular oil? Please advise.