A flat strap has less inductance than a round wire of equivalent gauge.

If you really want to go crazy, make sure the width of the strap is at least 1/5 the length. If you want pretty colors, dip the strap in "tool dip" or wrap with colored tape, but keep it flat.

Most of these DIY cables will have major corrosion issues in no time. Those set-screw lugs are not meant to be used in an unprotected environment. A quality crimp lug is superior. If you want to make your own, solder lugs are a good choice that don't require an expensive crimp tool.

Asterix

 

Hmmm I'm gonna try this project next week I'll post finished pictures when I'm done.

 

Theres debate about whether the additional grounding works... and I too was VERY hesitate to do it. I have a 2003 350z 5at automatic and had delayed shifting that I could never understand why. Literally, 1 outta 30 tiptronic shifts was a miss. I went ahead and bought 4ga grounding ends from autozone for $3 bucks a pair and got a roll of 4ga grounding amplifier wire. I did one directly from the battery negative through the rubber gromet to the engine top. Then I did additional grounds to other grounding points on the engine and chasis as everyone else did. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE! The tiptronic shifting actually works properly, no more having to push the tiptronic lever twice every 30 or so shifts just to get it to go into the gear I want. Problem fixed and all due to insufficient factory grounding.

But on a serious note, the ONLY IMPORTANT additional ground is adding another ground wire to the negative and running it directly to the engine. Thats all it needs because the engine itself is a high conductor. Directly grounding battery negative to engine cuts out th middle man (chassis).

So for 5at transmissions, it works.

ALSO, after installing aftermarket amps, speakers and head unit... I got a hissing whine ground loop noise that went away from doing the added grounding. Another reason why I know the factory grounding is insufficient.

 

I just finished making my own HR grounding kit. I used 4 ga wire, crimp lugs, and a battery post adapter all from knukonceptz. I ran 3ft of wire from the battery neg post to the passenger side front of the engine, and a 1 ft wire from the driver side front of motor to a factory body ground that is next to head light. I measure the resistance from the battery neg to the body ground. Prior to my ground kit, the resistance measured 3 ohms. After the kit, the resistance measured 0.2 ohms. Butt dyno says the the grounding kit is a little better is than a wash, wax, and detail on a sunny day. It cost less than $30.00. I learned you can cut the 4 ga wire with bolt cutters, and crimp the lugs using a vice. Make sure you slide the plastic covers, that go over the lugs, on the cable before you strip off about 3/4 in of the insulation. If you forget to do this, you will spend your time getting frustrated trying to get all of those fine wires into the plastic cover before you give up and cut off exposed wires and start again. DON"T drop any of the set screws that come with the battery connector when you are connecting it and the 4ga wire to the battery. They disappear down a hole next to the battery. Butt dyno was done on the trip to the hardware store to search their selection of set screws.

 

I just installed my grounding kit today.

I used this thread along with these two others:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...nding-kit.html

http://www.z-xtreme.com/installation.html

Car seems more stable (that's about it). I can't remember the exact reading but my volt meter reads a constant 14 volts.

I thought the kit would lower the voltage as oppose to holding it steady. I'm guessing the reason is because +power isn't forced though the system now, eliminating the need for 14+ volts.

any insight?

 

is there any 2008 350z ground kit installation diagram?

 

I think Stillen has one.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...PE&r=&b=&m=all

 

thanks for the link..i needed that specific product..hope it has an installation manual in it.pls post diys on ignition coil installation too..

 

Interested in installing the diy grounding kit, but just wondering if the exposed copper on the termination end will corrode or oxidize over time.

 

any pics for ground points in a HR ? oh and what bolts were used ? ? M6 ?

 

oh well did this on my Z today . . . was pretty straight forward . . dropped a couple of nuts in the bay . . got the magnet to pick them back up

sorry for the crappy pics







my volts gauge now shows 15+ volts, idle seems better, stereo sounds powerful . . and starts are stronger . . .
but maybe all this is just my head . . .


my only concern is if the plastic cover of the capacitor cable may melt off . . or worse catch fire . . as they are bolted on to the engine itself . . any ides on that ?

 

Sorry for the ignorance but what is the point of doing a grounding kit??

 

gives a better conducted path between chassis, engine , and all electronics on board that share a common ground

 

Did you get a fix on the capacitor cable?

 

naah, i checked them recently . . not melting or anything . . theyre holding up fine . . no worries

 

i got the HKS grounding kit

 

Here's a few quick shots of my homemade grounding kit. I also replaced the stock ground wires from the block to the driver's side mounts. You can see the discoloration of the wire due to heat. Nothing a little wire loom can't fix. Also need to clean it up a little with some wire ties. Sorry the engine bay is kinda dirty.

 

Cool and all, but this is the DIY section

 

tell me about it . . . my blue grounding kit looks black now

 

So based on this, i'm interested in running one wire from the neg to the engine, where would the best engine connection be to use?