Carbon Talk : Interested in learning more about Automotive CF parts?
what a great and informative thread. u def got my attention
01-03-2009, 06:17 PM
#84
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have +07 Top Secret CF hood made by Seibon, Mastergrade CF hatch and Top Secret CF rear diffuser made by Mastergrade. This pieces looks to me clearcoted but, since I don't know much about CF I'm not sure if that's clearcoat. Does anyone know if I have or should to clearcoat this parts? Will they faid in color if not clearcoated?
Thanx.
Thanx.
01-06-2009, 09:28 AM
#85
I can answer that for you, All of Mastergrade's parts come with a clear gel coat. This already have a protection against fading. For Seibon's parts, you might have to ask someone that has it for over a year.
Ken@shine... The write up on all different carbon procedures sums it all up, perfect write up.
Ken@shine... The write up on all different carbon procedures sums it all up, perfect write up.
01-06-2009, 10:22 AM
#86
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: globetrotter
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hat I am concerned about is weight and strength vs. stock. From what I've heard and from this thread "dry-carbon fiber" is what you want to go with in terms of performance. Can you guys clear this up? IMO, simply putting carbon fiber on a car is pointless and ricey unless it serves a purpose....
01-06-2009, 10:33 AM
#87
hat I am concerned about is weight and strength vs. stock. From what I've heard and from this thread "dry-carbon fiber" is what you want to go with in terms of performance. Can you guys clear this up? IMO, simply putting carbon fiber on a car is pointless and ricey unless it serves a purpose....
As far as weight. There are 3 basic kind of carbon; wet, vacuumed, and prepreg. With wet being the heaviest and Prepreg being the lightest. There are ups and downs to all 3 kinds. Here's some good examples of weights I use for comparisson reasons
SEIBON wet hatch- 18-19lbs and costs $600+
Asuka vacuum bagged hatch- 12-13lbs and costs $900+
SEIBON Prepreg hatch- 8-9lbs and costs $1500+
These are the weights I have found over the past 3 years of working with these companies.
02-08-2009, 04:35 AM
#88
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fenton, MI
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, I thumbed through this thread in an effort not to be redundent with my question. So I appologize if I missed it.
I am wanting to do as much carbon as I can (oem carbon pieces on a black G35 Coupe). I want the whole front end along with the fenders, and the trunk. I am wondering about the doors. I have had a hard time finding any posts of people that have done the doors, so my question is this.
Can the stock interior be used with the doors? Are there any drawbacks with function of the window, door controls...anything else? Basically, if someone could give me the pros and cons of doing this I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks, this has been a great thread.
I am wanting to do as much carbon as I can (oem carbon pieces on a black G35 Coupe). I want the whole front end along with the fenders, and the trunk. I am wondering about the doors. I have had a hard time finding any posts of people that have done the doors, so my question is this.
Can the stock interior be used with the doors? Are there any drawbacks with function of the window, door controls...anything else? Basically, if someone could give me the pros and cons of doing this I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks, this has been a great thread.
02-13-2009, 07:04 PM
#89
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fenton, MI
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Again...Bueller...Bueller? Anyone?
Alright, I thumbed through this thread in an effort not to be redundent with my question. So I appologize if I missed it.
I am wanting to do as much carbon as I can (oem carbon pieces on a black G35 Coupe). I want the whole front end along with the fenders, and the trunk. I am wondering about the doors. I have had a hard time finding any posts of people that have done the doors, so my question is this.
Can the stock interior be used with the doors? Are there any drawbacks with function of the window, door controls...anything else? Basically, if someone could give me the pros and cons of doing this I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks, this has been a great thread.
Alright, I thumbed through this thread in an effort not to be redundent with my question. So I appologize if I missed it.
I am wanting to do as much carbon as I can (oem carbon pieces on a black G35 Coupe). I want the whole front end along with the fenders, and the trunk. I am wondering about the doors. I have had a hard time finding any posts of people that have done the doors, so my question is this.
Can the stock interior be used with the doors? Are there any drawbacks with function of the window, door controls...anything else? Basically, if someone could give me the pros and cons of doing this I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks, this has been a great thread.
07-08-2009, 05:55 PM
#91
Banned for NON PAYMENT
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orange County California
Posts: 746
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's a few pics of a forum members hood I Re-surfaced and cleared. Basically the process for this was lots of sanding, wet sanding, clear coating, wet sanding and a polish.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
This hood was not previously clear coated, the quality of the hood was just okay, It was obviously Wet carbon (hand laid). It was oxidized and yellow. With your bumper you should be able to do the same but it may take a little longer as you have openings and curved and odd angle surfaces to work with. Any competent body shop should be able to do this, I did this out of a small workshop I have access to and just helped out a friend. As you can see you can't completely remove the yellow but it is at least better then what it was before. Its all a matter of time and effort you put in to restore your CF piece, I know a few other members on here have done some CF repairs after I explained how to do them. Its not too complicated, but it takes some time and some patience to learn how to do it.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
This hood was not previously clear coated, the quality of the hood was just okay, It was obviously Wet carbon (hand laid). It was oxidized and yellow. With your bumper you should be able to do the same but it may take a little longer as you have openings and curved and odd angle surfaces to work with. Any competent body shop should be able to do this, I did this out of a small workshop I have access to and just helped out a friend. As you can see you can't completely remove the yellow but it is at least better then what it was before. Its all a matter of time and effort you put in to restore your CF piece, I know a few other members on here have done some CF repairs after I explained how to do them. Its not too complicated, but it takes some time and some patience to learn how to do it.
Last edited by EricChan; 07-08-2009 at 05:59 PM.
07-09-2009, 04:21 AM
#92
Here's a few pics of a forum members hood I Re-surfaced and cleared. Basically the process for this was lots of sanding, wet sanding, clear coating, wet sanding and a polish.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
This hood was not previously clear coated, the quality of the hood was just okay, It was obviously Wet carbon (hand laid). It was oxidized and yellow. With your bumper you should be able to do the same but it may take a little longer as you have openings and curved and odd angle surfaces to work with. Any competent body shop should be able to do this, I did this out of a small workshop I have access to and just helped out a friend. As you can see you can't completely remove the yellow but it is at least better then what it was before. Its all a matter of time and effort you put in to restore your CF piece, I know a few other members on here have done some CF repairs after I explained how to do them. Its not too complicated, but it takes some time and some patience to learn how to do it.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
This hood was not previously clear coated, the quality of the hood was just okay, It was obviously Wet carbon (hand laid). It was oxidized and yellow. With your bumper you should be able to do the same but it may take a little longer as you have openings and curved and odd angle surfaces to work with. Any competent body shop should be able to do this, I did this out of a small workshop I have access to and just helped out a friend. As you can see you can't completely remove the yellow but it is at least better then what it was before. Its all a matter of time and effort you put in to restore your CF piece, I know a few other members on here have done some CF repairs after I explained how to do them. Its not too complicated, but it takes some time and some patience to learn how to do it.
thanks a lot man, so basically any good body shop, for the right price could sand it down and re clear it and make it look new again is what im gathering
07-09-2009, 07:16 PM
#93
Banned for NON PAYMENT
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orange County California
Posts: 746
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea Pretty much. If you find a good shop that knows how to work with carbon they can even fix minor cracks. I know we do fix some cracks on some CF pieces from time to time when they get shipping damage to the customer.
08-03-2009, 06:14 AM
#97
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ladera Ranch, SoCal
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So apparently I'm not the only one with these plans... I'm thinking painted carbonfiber. Seems most people are interested in removing it. I want to apply it. Now, I've heard that cf doesn't tale well to paint. Is there any special prep or process you need to follow? And why does it seem to be faux pas to paint cf? What's the big deal, if it's primary purpose is weight savings, to paint over that sexy sexy weave pattern?
08-20-2009, 11:03 AM
#98
Banned
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Huntington Beach
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From previous experience and from working with CF, the paint does adhere to CF, but I can always tell when CF has been painted unless its done right with lots of prep work. Honestly I love CF, but I'm getting tired of it and want to paint scheme it. Your basically gonna need a shop that has delt with CF before like DTM Autobody. Otherwise you can see slight distortion in the paint which looks like part of the weave is showing through.
12-14-2009, 11:55 PM
#99
Love the helpful info. Couple of questions. When it comes to exterior CF parts, can they take more of hit with small road pebbles than say a plain fiberglass part can?
Do you have to use any particular type of chemical to wash or wax the part or are the chemicals too harsh on the CF.
Everyone keeps saying how much lighter CF is. I have never bought anything in CF so I can't make a direct comparison and I have never seen any stats on it. Do you know roughly how much weight you shave off by using CF. I know it depends on the part but I was wondering if there was a general percentage.
Do you have to use any particular type of chemical to wash or wax the part or are the chemicals too harsh on the CF.
Everyone keeps saying how much lighter CF is. I have never bought anything in CF so I can't make a direct comparison and I have never seen any stats on it. Do you know roughly how much weight you shave off by using CF. I know it depends on the part but I was wondering if there was a general percentage.
how to take care of our CF parts?
12-16-2009, 10:03 PM
#100
Banned
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: COSTA MESA, CA
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The stuff M6 said in the thread was actually me, a long time ago. But yes, CF can be lighter and stronger if made correctly.
As far as taking a hit on the road... Compared to Fiberglass its the same, but with the fiberglass (FRP and its hybrid composites) that people are using to make bumpers nowadays its more flexible which in turn helps prevent small nicks and cracks.
As far as washing and waxing are concerned, you can treat it the same as paint. I would always wash and wax my CF parts. Wax really brings out the gloss of the CF and 3d effect if its twill weave. I would HIGHLY recommend if your CF part does not come cleared, to CLEAR COAT the piece. Some companies charge an arm and a leg for parts but they don't clear their pieces (companies like: DAMD, VeilSide, Seibon, VIS, Mines, Top Secret, Varis). The Clear coat is what will really help prevent fade to yellow like the hood pictured in one of my posts above. It can really help the part last much longer and keep its silver black color.
Carbon fiber will may or may not hold up the shock of the small pebbles thrown at the car at say a speed of about 65mph. It will eventually get beaten up with small nicks and such but it really depends on who made the CF piece, thickness of the resin, type of resin, age of the piece etc. Always too many factors. But generally speaking it will eventually get nicks and cracks on the piece.
As far as weight savings, yes it can save weight but again, lots of factors here. Take for example the OEM hatch. It weighs approximately with the glass 70 lbs. with the glass.
I believe VIS and Seibons both weigh somewhere between 30-35+ lbs. in CF. Both I also believe use fiberglass backing. Both are hand laid Carbon fiber parts.
Asuka and Mastergrade both made hatches with built in spoilers which are Vacuum infused:
Mastergrades Hatch weight was under 20 lbs. for sure
Asuka weighed in their Fiberglass Hatch at 22 lbs.
Asuka Single sided CF Hatch : 16 lbs.
Asuka Double sided CF Hatch: 14 lbs. I believe
All weights are without glass. Assume the glass weighs about 30 lbs. You still have a significant weight reduction and savings.
Assuming Asuka was to make a double sided CF hatch in Pre Preg Carbon, or "Dry Carbon" I wouldn't be surprised if they could get close to the 10lb marker. LOTS of R&D would need to be done in order to achieve this. We will see what the future holds but maybe we may be able to get close to this.
As far as taking a hit on the road... Compared to Fiberglass its the same, but with the fiberglass (FRP and its hybrid composites) that people are using to make bumpers nowadays its more flexible which in turn helps prevent small nicks and cracks.
As far as washing and waxing are concerned, you can treat it the same as paint. I would always wash and wax my CF parts. Wax really brings out the gloss of the CF and 3d effect if its twill weave. I would HIGHLY recommend if your CF part does not come cleared, to CLEAR COAT the piece. Some companies charge an arm and a leg for parts but they don't clear their pieces (companies like: DAMD, VeilSide, Seibon, VIS, Mines, Top Secret, Varis). The Clear coat is what will really help prevent fade to yellow like the hood pictured in one of my posts above. It can really help the part last much longer and keep its silver black color.
Carbon fiber will may or may not hold up the shock of the small pebbles thrown at the car at say a speed of about 65mph. It will eventually get beaten up with small nicks and such but it really depends on who made the CF piece, thickness of the resin, type of resin, age of the piece etc. Always too many factors. But generally speaking it will eventually get nicks and cracks on the piece.
As far as weight savings, yes it can save weight but again, lots of factors here. Take for example the OEM hatch. It weighs approximately with the glass 70 lbs. with the glass.
I believe VIS and Seibons both weigh somewhere between 30-35+ lbs. in CF. Both I also believe use fiberglass backing. Both are hand laid Carbon fiber parts.
Asuka and Mastergrade both made hatches with built in spoilers which are Vacuum infused:
Mastergrades Hatch weight was under 20 lbs. for sure
Asuka weighed in their Fiberglass Hatch at 22 lbs.
Asuka Single sided CF Hatch : 16 lbs.
Asuka Double sided CF Hatch: 14 lbs. I believe
All weights are without glass. Assume the glass weighs about 30 lbs. You still have a significant weight reduction and savings.
Assuming Asuka was to make a double sided CF hatch in Pre Preg Carbon, or "Dry Carbon" I wouldn't be surprised if they could get close to the 10lb marker. LOTS of R&D would need to be done in order to achieve this. We will see what the future holds but maybe we may be able to get close to this.
Last edited by Eric@AutoInfantry; 12-16-2009 at 10:05 PM.