tire/steering wheel vibration at high speed
02-18-2015, 08:46 AM
#21
So just jacked the car up one side at a time and the drivers side wheel didn't move at all. The passenger side moved maybe 1/8" tie rod looked fine but the uca boot/bushing that attaches to the hub has a slight rip/ tear around it. But I lowered it back down and made sure the lugs were tight and 2 or 3 turned 1/4-1/2 a turn. They are completely tight now, then jacked it back up but still moves that about an 1/8".
My question is no one mentioned the uca boot being a possibility, it doesn't look messed up at all buthas a slight rip in it almost like if you were to run a knife around it. Could this be my culprit?
My question is no one mentioned the uca boot being a possibility, it doesn't look messed up at all buthas a slight rip in it almost like if you were to run a knife around it. Could this be my culprit?
02-19-2015, 06:31 AM
#23
The boot could be the culprit. I'm no expert on this stuff so maybe someone who knows more can chime in. Mine was pretty obvious because the whole tie rod was moving with the wheel.
But I'd definitely say the movement in that wheel is causing your vibration issues. Can you tell what is/isn't moving along with the wheel? Something has some play in it somewhere.
But I'd definitely say the movement in that wheel is causing your vibration issues. Can you tell what is/isn't moving along with the wheel? Something has some play in it somewhere.
Last edited by Bama J; 02-19-2015 at 06:32 AM.
02-19-2015, 08:02 AM
#24
If I had a lift I'm sure I would be able to figure it out but just from jacking it up I didn't see anything moving but the hub blocks the control arm so without an assistant I won't be able to tell.
All I could tell was the wheel moved the tie rod stayed still but there's a rip in the balljoint boot, I'm think dirt and stuff got in there. But I know for sure now the problem is somewhere with that wheel and its components. I will try to have a shop look at it within the next week, maybe ill have enough beans left from this check to do it this weekend.
All I could tell was the wheel moved the tie rod stayed still but there's a rip in the balljoint boot, I'm think dirt and stuff got in there. But I know for sure now the problem is somewhere with that wheel and its components. I will try to have a shop look at it within the next week, maybe ill have enough beans left from this check to do it this weekend.
02-21-2015, 05:46 AM
#25
So I changed the brakes yesterday and now the shake is gone :O
The shake was present when hitting the brakes as well which is why changed them (although most the brake pads had 50%+ life left) but the shake was also present when I was still accelerating over 100 and really noticeable when I let off the gas. So I don't know what happened but the shake is now gone...
The shake was present when hitting the brakes as well which is why changed them (although most the brake pads had 50%+ life left) but the shake was also present when I was still accelerating over 100 and really noticeable when I let off the gas. So I don't know what happened but the shake is now gone...
02-23-2015, 09:21 PM
#26
New Member
iTrader: (6)
Do you have aftermarket rims? I've seen this before with rims that need hubcentric rings.
02-24-2015, 08:27 AM
#27
Nah they are the stockers
The only thing I noticed is once we had the passenger front tire off and started to pivot the caliper the rotor just wanted to fall off, in my experience I've always had to use a hammer to break them free, but anyways, I'm thinking the rotor wasn't sitting flush against the hub which caused the wheel not to be tightened evenly, and we made sure it was flush when tightening it back on, and now there's no shake at all, I had it to around 120ish and it was smooth like it used to be.
Which is great cause now I can schedule a day for autox, this issue us the main reason I haven't been tried going yet, but now its fixed and I have all new brakes
The only thing I noticed is once we had the passenger front tire off and started to pivot the caliper the rotor just wanted to fall off, in my experience I've always had to use a hammer to break them free, but anyways, I'm thinking the rotor wasn't sitting flush against the hub which caused the wheel not to be tightened evenly, and we made sure it was flush when tightening it back on, and now there's no shake at all, I had it to around 120ish and it was smooth like it used to be.
Which is great cause now I can schedule a day for autox, this issue us the main reason I haven't been tried going yet, but now its fixed and I have all new brakes