350z_z33.

Yup it was the IGN & ECCS CONT fuse. You should try to replace it with another fuse and see if that fixes, it if you have checked it and it looks good. Also I've tried to work with the relearn procedure and that didn't help. I'll give it another try and see, maybe my timing was off.

350z_z33.

I would check the smallest things first, it could be anything. You think you can get your hand on an ecu maybe from a friend and see if that connects thru your car? Because that would tell you if its your ecu or not. (If it connects then its your ecu, but if it still doesn't want to connect even with a good ecu, then it's something else)

350z_z33.

.,.

350z_z33.

I'm actually gonna check when I get back home, but I think they're some oem bulbs. And would it affect the throttle response that bad? Like there throttle is barley doing anything...?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

noticeable lag, several buddies of mine experienced it.... i never drove the car first hand to see it. if you have the led's, unhook them and then go for a drive

pr_350z

Well i bought a ECU for $40, so that was a good price, but it was out of a 2005 base model 350z have not connected it yet, will give it a try today, what if that ECU does not connect? Might it mean the ECU is incompatible?

pr_350z

Or even if its incompatible it will connect with the expensive OBD2? Really lost here... anyone with info or experience with this is welcome to give their opinion as well

350z_z33.

What year is your Z? It should connect with no problem, but it wont start your car. Let me know what year your Z is and we can diagnose and will know what the problem is from there!

350z_z33.

Just went to take a look, turns out they're not LED's.

pr_350z

MY 350z is a 2004 track edition, btw I spoke with my mechanic and he referred me to an electromechanic so I wont risk the ECM getting burnt(if it where to be by a short). Been told before that shop is the best you can find around here and they are experts on everything electric/electronics, the guy who sold me the ECM told me about a 3.5L maxima(same engine) he had which had the exact same problem as my car, even burnt same ignition coils and ECM, and those guys fixed everything from the short that caused everything to fixing the ECM. But I guess peace of mind wont be cheap.

350z_z33.

If you talked to your mechanic and also the person that has experienced this problem, and they told you to take it to an electromechanic to get it fixed up, then that might be the best and probably the cheapest way, because if they (the people you got your reference from) couldn't find the problem, and took their cars to the shop to get it fixed, then that would probably be the best choice. Also if those guys fixed the short and ALSO the ecu, then I would go ahead and take it there, because finding the exact ecu, can be hard, and expensive to reprogram to fit your car. Good luck, I hope you get the problem solved!

pr_350z

Yes I am told they fixed everything, and you got a point there, getting everything fixed on the same shop even the ECU that might save me some money...and a headache down the road. Thank you and btw I hope you get that throttle response working soon!

350z_z33.

Good choice, I hope so too, and good luck!

I DTW I

Two thoughts,

disconnecting the MAF shouldn't prevent the car from starting. At least not most cars, I assume 350Z is the same.

Also, throttle response wouldn't have anything to do with a car not starting, I believe there is air that goes past the throttle body even if you are at 0% throttle. Throttle response would be while you are driving type of thing.

Also, for future readers, another reason a 350Z would refuse to start is (and this happened to me twice) is the anti-theft (NATS) antenna being unable to read the key. In my case, the CEL never lit, but there was a code indicating this. Basically the car thought it was being stolen so went into a no-start mode (I think it stops the spark plugs from producing any spark). So check your codes even if there is no CEL in a no start condition folks.

pr_350z

hello! just as an update for my situation. The car works now, the diagnostic was a faulty ECU(which was repaired) and some bad grounds on the car(from what I remember)... as an extra to anyone wondering what happened to the ECU I bought from a 2005 base model, it was programmed but the car blew black smoke and misfired(just probably incompatible), so there you go if you want to change your ECU check for full compability first then program the keys.

jhc

That'z pretty cool!

Justbigpr

I have a similar problem, IGN & ECCS CONT Fuse was blown, I replaced it and now my car is in som sort of limp mode, I hooked up my scanner to vehicle and it comes up with 6 codes P0103, P0118(circuit high input), P0113(circuit high input), P0183(circuit high input),P2138("E" Voltage Correlation), P1229( manufacturer specific), Also have just about every light lit up in dash , also discovered if I take the vacuum line of plenum it will start but have very little throttle response won't go over 2 grand , this is all leading me to some type of short, has any one ever experienced this or give me some sort of starting point? Also forgot to mention it's a 2005 with a APS twin turbo kit with a stand alone u-tech also has a remote start viper alarm.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

take it to a tuner to diagnose

Sailorgonzo

This is gonna be my last shot before I take it to a tuner. I have a 06 base 6mt. Car was driving perfect, and randomly the car turned off while I was driving. First thing I did was take the alternator off and checked to see if it's good, and came out good. Replaced the battery as well because it was dead since it was in the side of the road for 18 hours with hazards on. I checked the coil packs on the car but no issue. I did the manual ipdm test and it worked. Fuel pump does turn on as well. I'm not sure what can be the issue of this. Any guidance would greatly be appreciated.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Ok go ahead and read that a few times... First how in the world are we supposed to know, secondly why in the world would you take your alternator off, and why would you kill your battery.

Maybe you ran out of gas, maybe your catalytic converters collapsed, maybe you busted a rod through the side of your block, maybe you ran out of gas, maybe you blew a fuse, maybe your camshaft position sensor got unplugged, or just stopped working...

Ok thats all I got... Good luck and all but damn