went to the Dyno Today
Originally posted by PhoenixINX
Wasn't talking about you Roberto...
There's a member on here that likes to take cheap shots... You're all good!
Wasn't talking about you Roberto...
There's a member on here that likes to take cheap shots... You're all good!
What does the gear being 1:1 have to do with it? Does it make it easier to calculate?
Most dyno runs I have seen (on 6-speed cars in general) were done in 3rd, or 4th gear.
BTW: 15% drivetrain loss is generally the standard accepted loss for manual transmissions.
Most dyno runs I have seen (on 6-speed cars in general) were done in 3rd, or 4th gear.
BTW: 15% drivetrain loss is generally the standard accepted loss for manual transmissions.
You're supposed to dyno in your 1:1 gear. Thats why auto f-bodies dyno in 3rd and manuals in 4th. I forget which way(higher or lower) it affects output but it does affect the readings if you dyno in a different gear.
My guess is that the 1:1 ratio gear is an overdrive that bypasses much of the gearbox and connects a shaft directly through, thus having the least mechanical loss in the transmission? (I don't know in detail how the Z tranny works but from what I have learned of manual transmissions in general, this is how an overdrive often works.) I am just guessing here as to the relevance of this to dyno testing, so for any experts on the matter, please jump in and set the record straight.
Originally posted by z350z
My guess is that the 1:1 ratio gear is an overdrive that bypasses much of the gearbox and connects a shaft directly through, thus having the least mechanical loss in the transmission? (I don't know in detail how the Z tranny works but from what I have learned of manual transmissions in general, this is how an overdrive often works.) I am just guessing here as to the relevance of this to dyno testing, so for any experts on the matter, please jump in and set the record straight.
My guess is that the 1:1 ratio gear is an overdrive that bypasses much of the gearbox and connects a shaft directly through, thus having the least mechanical loss in the transmission? (I don't know in detail how the Z tranny works but from what I have learned of manual transmissions in general, this is how an overdrive often works.) I am just guessing here as to the relevance of this to dyno testing, so for any experts on the matter, please jump in and set the record straight.
The reason I assume you want a 1:1 ratio is that you want less gearing affects on the dyno. 1:1 gives you what is closer to coming out of the engine (with the obvious rear end differential effects still affecting it).
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I am interested in the measured HP differences with the Z. Webconncetion's car with the 240+ dyno runs does NOT have an LSD per the owne stating it is a base model. The viscous diff. might sap an extra 10 HP or so. I don't think I have seen another user post a dyno run above 240.
Originally posted by z350z
My guess is that the 1:1 ratio gear is an overdrive that bypasses much of the gearbox and connects a shaft directly through, thus having the least mechanical loss in the transmission? (I don't know in detail how the Z tranny works but from what I have learned of manual transmissions in general, this is how an overdrive often works.) I am just guessing here as to the relevance of this to dyno testing, so for any experts on the matter, please jump in and set the record straight.
My guess is that the 1:1 ratio gear is an overdrive that bypasses much of the gearbox and connects a shaft directly through, thus having the least mechanical loss in the transmission? (I don't know in detail how the Z tranny works but from what I have learned of manual transmissions in general, this is how an overdrive often works.) I am just guessing here as to the relevance of this to dyno testing, so for any experts on the matter, please jump in and set the record straight.
1 = input revoutions from the engine
1 = output revolutions from the trasmission
An example of "Overdrive" would be
.75:1
.75= for every 3/4 turn of the engine (input shaft on transmission)
1= you get one revolution of the output shaft of the transmission
Hence "overdriving" the input from the engine i.e. making the output shaft of the trasmission spin faster than the input shaft from the engine.
My cheezy drivetrain diagram... (im leaving rear end gearing out)
[ENGINE] -> [TRANNY] - > driveshaft ->REAREND
so... lets say your at 1000rpms
This would be the standard drive gear
1000rpms from engine to 1:1 = 1000rpms to the driveshaft to the rearend gear
This would be a overdrive gear.
1000rpms from engine to .75:1 = 1250rpms to driveshaft
1-4th gears work the opposite (examples)
1:.87
1:.72
(real low gear ratios look a lot different, but it's the same principal)
SO back tothe dyno stuff:
You want to be in a 1:1 because then the input shaft of the trasmission is spinning at the same speed at the output. Giving you accurate results. Using 1-4th would give bad results because of the transmission gearing.
Last edited by SiGGy; Dec 18, 2002 at 12:27 PM.
Originally posted by webcarconnection
I dont change the K&N with the stock filter, but I heard that the K&N only gave around 1 HP if you are lucky! the other thing is that we only have in P.R. 87 or 93 Gas, of course I always put 93 on the Z. I dont think that only 2 oct. in the gas can gave a car 2 hp or more!
I believe that the TQ is a little high I have to check with my friend (owner of the Dyno) the #'s again, he dont give any printing because he dont have any paper at this time. but I gonna go and Doble check and hopefully print some Data. (I'm very sure about the HP, its was that results)
I dont change the K&N with the stock filter, but I heard that the K&N only gave around 1 HP if you are lucky! the other thing is that we only have in P.R. 87 or 93 Gas, of course I always put 93 on the Z. I dont think that only 2 oct. in the gas can gave a car 2 hp or more!
I believe that the TQ is a little high I have to check with my friend (owner of the Dyno) the #'s again, he dont give any printing because he dont have any paper at this time. but I gonna go and Doble check and hopefully print some Data. (I'm very sure about the HP, its was that results)
I check the TQ #s again and "Corrected" are 231 1st run and 233 in 2nd run, the "cursor" was in some kind of peak.
Originally posted by bsix
I am interested in the measured HP differences with the Z. Webconncetion's car with the 240+ dyno runs does NOT have an LSD per the owne stating it is a base model. The viscous diff. might sap an extra 10 HP or so. I don't think I have seen another user post a dyno run above 240.
I am interested in the measured HP differences with the Z. Webconncetion's car with the 240+ dyno runs does NOT have an LSD per the owne stating it is a base model. The viscous diff. might sap an extra 10 HP or so. I don't think I have seen another user post a dyno run above 240.
Maybe you have a point, but there are some Z owners (not base) that pass the 240 hp in the Dyno. look in the search botton maybe you get it.
Originally posted by SiGGy
1:1 one means exactly what it states.
1 = input revoutions from the engine
1 = output revolutions from the trasmission
An example of "Overdrive" would be
.75:1
.75= for every 3/4 turn of the engine (input shaft on transmission)
1= you get one revolution of the output shaft of the transmission
Hence "overdriving" the input from the engine i.e. making the output shaft of the trasmission spin faster than the input shaft from the engine.
My cheezy drivetrain diagram... (im leaving rear end gearing out)
[ENGINE] -> [TRANNY] - > driveshaft ->REAREND
so... lets say your at 1000rpms
This would be the standard drive gear
1000rpms from engine to 1:1 = 1000rpms to the driveshaft to the rearend gear
This would be a overdrive gear.
1000rpms from engine to .75:1 = 1250rpms to driveshaft
1-4th gears work the opposite (examples)
1:.87
1:.72
(real low gear ratios look a lot different, but it's the same principal)
SO back tothe dyno stuff:
You want to be in a 1:1 because then the input shaft of the trasmission is spinning at the same speed at the output. Giving you accurate results. Using 1-4th would give bad results because of the transmission gearing.
1:1 one means exactly what it states.
1 = input revoutions from the engine
1 = output revolutions from the trasmission
An example of "Overdrive" would be
.75:1
.75= for every 3/4 turn of the engine (input shaft on transmission)
1= you get one revolution of the output shaft of the transmission
Hence "overdriving" the input from the engine i.e. making the output shaft of the trasmission spin faster than the input shaft from the engine.
My cheezy drivetrain diagram... (im leaving rear end gearing out)
[ENGINE] -> [TRANNY] - > driveshaft ->REAREND
so... lets say your at 1000rpms
This would be the standard drive gear
1000rpms from engine to 1:1 = 1000rpms to the driveshaft to the rearend gear
This would be a overdrive gear.
1000rpms from engine to .75:1 = 1250rpms to driveshaft
1-4th gears work the opposite (examples)
1:.87
1:.72
(real low gear ratios look a lot different, but it's the same principal)
SO back tothe dyno stuff:
You want to be in a 1:1 because then the input shaft of the trasmission is spinning at the same speed at the output. Giving you accurate results. Using 1-4th would give bad results because of the transmission gearing.



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