Tomorrow I get to see in the bell housing. Pulled the clutch fork boot and peaked in as much as possible. The pressure plate seems intact

 

It was a little stubby, a little skinny, and awkwardly place. So it was pretty much exactly what im used to working with.

 

It dawns that a few who have read the "DIY shift ****" thread would get this.

All else just think you and Trav are pervs.

All would be right....

 

but it was funny!

 

I won't be doing anything to my Z for the next 4 or 5 months unless I buy something by Spring. Like new tires and slotted rotors for the rear brakes.

 

Hey SmoothZ! are you looking for slotted rotors? I was thinking the same thing last night.

 

Yep, it's a definite purchase this winter. I'll buy from one of the vendors here, probably Z1.

 

i was looking at adams rotors when i still had mine.... so many slot design choices

 

I was thinking that z1 upgrade brake kit would be the way to go when I get some motivation...

My rotors look like ****... Im mostly afraid of my bleeder screw breaking off when the time comes.

Sucks when **** gets old and rusty-corroded.

On a side note I just signed up for a 370z forum so I can hopefully score some interchangeable parts for a good price... But that forum rules suck, cant even make fun of people that ask dumb questions.

 

Fine me some 370 Nismo or sport wheels!

 

They had some for sale... Also had a nice price to go with them. Think they were asking $2900

 

Lol yeah 370 guys are insane. Think they have gold

 

OK, let me play devil's advocate here (because that's part of what I do for a living ) but mostly to make sure we're playing on a level playing field.

According to these postings, $2900 is considered a hefty price to pay - especially for used wheels. And it is... of all the wheels I've owned - just for my Zs, about 10 sets - I've never paid that much for ANY set of wheels - but then, never had to look for OEM replacements for my Carp Car (Z34N). Mine were all purchased used/pre-owned.

But to keep it real, know that one can buy a set of Z34N wheels for $3100. BRAND NEW. (see this link for verification.) So yes, the $2900 price is rather, well, stupid.... to call a spade a spade.

That all said, however, how is paying $3100 (or $2900 in this example) for a set of light weight (relative), forged alloys any worse than paying $3500+ for a set of Volk TE37s (as an example of a wheel with similar construction and made by Rays as well)? Sure, TE37s spec lighter than the Niz whills but that's not the point. Construction for construction, OEM v. aftermarket, it's a fair comparison.

Top that off with the fact that OEM Nismo (OEM or Accessory) alloys when purchased new, come with a 3yr/36,000 mile limited warranty.

So, do we 370Z owners (or pseudo-ex-owner in my case) think we p00p gold? Well, some of us (me) do but that's also besides the point. Laff..........

-------------

Might I suggest an alternative though?

You can still get the 370Z S-Tune accessory wheels (LMZ5) in 19x9/10 for a little under $2k brand new. (Ask me how I know.... although I didn't pay NEARLY that much for mine!) In my book, a set of 19" forged Rays wheels weighing 20# each is totally worth the performance gain, even at the $2k price.



I know, I know.... people don't like the "look" much because they look too much like stock wheels. Me, I love 'em for both the performance and the subtle, "sleeper" look! Enough that I'm only keeping one extra/spare set of wheels around for my mood changes. (My original V3 Niz whills.) Z'matter of fact, reminds me, gotta post my Track V1s for sale.....

2 cents..... where's my change at?

 

I buffed and detailed my car in the past week. I used 1200,1500,2000, and finally 3000 grit paper. 3m rubbing compound , swirl Mark remover, glazing polish, and then waxed it with carnuba.
It made a big difference removing all these small scratches that the car gets over the years.

 

Hey I have nismo forged rays taste, I just have a anniversary oem curbed up budget... And even buying 18 inch tires hurts a little bit.

 

Big brass ones putting sandpaper on the Z

 

Always nervous when I start but I've done it quite a few times. I only use the1200 and 1500 where there's lots of orange peel.

 

True dat.... I don't get how that works. I mean, I get color sanding and all that but h*ll, I used something like 3000g sandpaper on the little spot where my rear emblem fell off to clean it up and it went right through to the primer. And yes, I used ginger hands on it.... Ehhhhh....

Some of you may remember that when I took an adventure to RiceLand (no, not my forefathers' land of origin....snicker snicker ) and put a $6 Nismo medallion on the car, mostly as a joke but actually a test to see how I could cover up my fo pah.

 

Does that mean the nismo sticker is gone? I thought it gave you a little extra street cred... Plus at least if someone called you out on it you have one at home. I did my carbon fiber hood and my headlights with 800 to 2000... Im not going to win any car shows.

 

My understanding is that clear coat from the factory is between 1.3 to 1.8 mils thick, so you don't have a lot to work with. Body shops usually put 3-4 mils on.
I never go near ridges or sharp curves, you'll probably go thru the clear.
You can also go thru with the machine applied rubbing compound.