Getting more horse power
Anyway, OP, test pipes and uprev tune will cost under a grand and will net you maybe 20whp. You can get true dual exhaust to go with it if you want for another grand or so. Beyond that, forget about building additional power unless you want to spend several thousand on a FI setup. Unfortunately for you and I, FI options for the HR motor are pretty lousy.
GTM makes/made an ok TT kit and decent super charger kit, but you do not want to deal with them. Trust me on that.
Greddy made a solid TT kit with mitsubishi turbos. Apparently that kit is no longer in production and they are revising it with Garrett turbos which would be much better IMO. I haven't heard any news on this in a long time which leads me to think the project slipped through the cracks and won't ever make it to production.
Boosted Performance is working on fabbing up a mid mount ST kit derived from the 370z kit. I don't like single turbos or mid mounts, so it's a no go for me.
AAM is developing a TT kit for the 370, DE, and HR. Untested by independent consumers and quite expensive. No clue when that will be ready for production.
May be some others I'm forgetting. That's the basic idea though.
Hey bro yeah the vets here are as&holes. They believe they're superior because they had their Zs before us or something.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,892
Likes: 277
From: arizona
Hey bro yeah the vets here are as&holes. They believe they're superior because they had their Zs before us or something.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
Hey bro yeah the vets here are as&holes. They believe they're superior because they had their Zs before us or something.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
There is a difference between:
Just bought a 350Z, want 800WHP for $1500 what exhaust do I get
and
Recently bought a 350Z and want to add some power, I was looking at XXXXX, and read about XXXXX, what do you all recommended for my goals.
Just examples but it goes along way to spend 10 minutes of doing your own research instead of asking to be completely spoon fed.
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,315
Likes: 3,378
From: Northern California
At the moment, im shooting for around 1000. I never really been into modding cars until i bought my 350. And ****, take it easy on me, im pretty new to all of this. As of me being mechanically inclined, im probably the only one out of all of my friends who isnt, but with that being said, everyone else is and shouldnt be a problem when it comes to modding my car, besides the levels of trust you can say lol. I guess i should have worded this post different. So in other words, as a newb, where should i start
OP, there're few questions asked that have as many interpretations as yours. Like "What is the meaning of life?" Laff....
But here's a few tips:I'll start by saying that anyone who's read any of my posts knows what I'm about to say in preface to the actual answer... (YKWYA
).Improve the driver first. I don't mean that to be glib, I'm dead serious. Invest in driving school. Even a one or two day class. It's the mod that carries over to EVERY car you own or drive, even rental cars.
But most importantly, understanding what the car is doing and how it responds to your educated input is key to modifying your cars intelligently and with real expectations set.
My rule of thumb is that when you can drive your car to at least 75% of ITS capabilities then you can start modifying to suit you because you'll know exactly what it needs and more importantly, what it doesn't need as you may find that the car is more than adequate in stock form (or "requires" a lot less modification than you first believed).
Now, with that out of the way, here's my recs on modifying for more power.
1. Define your usage and budget.
You've got to be realistic. You're not going to build a 400WHP car on $1,000.
2. Once the above is determined, consider the ancillary/supporting requirements first:
In this case, handling improvements to keep all that horsepower in check and increased braking power to get you back down to Earth.
Suspension work (good alignment, sway bars, shocks, springs, alignment adjustability, with an alignment check between each step) if warranted and at least good brake pads and rotors. And of course, good tires and/or wheels! Won't go into that, that's a whole different thread, er, chapter, uhhh wait, book.
3. If you truly are constrained by a $1000 budget, the best bang for the buck in terms of acceleration gains that you can actually feel would be investing in a set of lower rear gears (and limited slip if you have an open diff) and having it installed and adjusted properly. Replacing the stock 3.54 with a 3.90 or 4.10 rear gear. This will cost you in terms of higher revs on the freeway (and associated gas, wear and tear, etc) but you will definitely get to terminus speed a lot faster.
4. Now, finally, to the meat of your question: power mods... (and you'll note this is listed last as a matter of priority in which to do it all properly.)
A) Invest in ECU re-mapping, AKA "tune" (or buy the whole set up as you'll want to re-tune with each mod). While I won't say what I run in my garage, I will say it's worth it. Read up on the various types of tuning tools available.
B) Bolt on mods?? Ehhhh, you can add breathing apparatus such as plenum spacer, cold air intake, free flowing exhaust, etc. BUT that's not going to add a lot, in the grand scheme of things. But maybe that's all you really want/need given budget and your newfound ability to really push the car.
C) To get real power, you'll need to consider forced induction, be it turbocharging or supercharging.
Determining which way to go is a matter of matching your needs to the available solutions. Again, read up on this. There's tons of info on the interwebs and notably, for our cars, right here on this site.
But know this.... going FI requires everything I've mentioned... good chassis set up, increased braking, tune, driving skills, and of course, LOTS of c-notes. A PROPERLY set up car will EASILY run you $10k+
Long and short of it is: You can do it right or you can do it WRONG. And when it's wrong, it's WAY WRONG.
That's my devalued $.02, take it seriously or take it with a grain of sodium chloride. But at least consider it.
Cheers,
Mic
Last edited by MicVelo; Aug 4, 2015 at 08:38 AM.
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,892
Likes: 277
From: arizona
Y'know Trav, I'm not so sure. I detect that there is some sarcasm in his response but may actually want some advice. Any case, this has been answered a zillion times but I guess I haven't said it in a while. So... any event, I'll go into "preach mode" here for a minute.
OP, there're few questions asked that have as many interpretations as yours. Like "What is the meaning of life?" Laff.... But here's a few tips:
I'll start by saying that anyone who's read any of my posts knows what I'm about to say in preface to the actual answer... (YKWYA).
Improve the driver first. I don't mean that to be glib, I'm dead serious. Invest in driving school. Even a one or two day class. It's the mod that carries over to EVERY car you own or drive, even rental cars.
But most importantly, understanding what the car is doing and how it responds to your educated input is key to modifying your cars intelligently and with real expectations set.
My rule of thumb is that when you can drive your car to at least 75% of ITS capabilities then you can start modifying to suit you because you'll know exactly what it needs and more importantly, what it doesn't need as you may find that the car is more than adequate in stock form (or "requires" a lot less modification than you first believed).
Now, with that out of the way, here's my recs on modifying for more power.
1. Define your usage and budget.
You've got to be realistic. You're not going to build a 400WHP car on $1,000.
2. Once the above is determined, consider the ancillary/supporting requirements first:
In this case, handling improvements to keep all that horsepower in check and increased braking power to get you back down to Earth.
Suspension work (good alignment, sway bars, shocks, springs, alignment adjustability, with an alignment check between each step) if warranted and at least good brake pads and rotors. And of course, good tires and/or wheels! Won't go into that, that's a whole different thread, er, chapter, uhhh wait, book.
3. If you truly are constrained by a $1000 budget, the best bang for the buck in terms of acceleration gains that you can actually feel would be investing in a set of lower rear gears (and limited slip if you have an open diff) and having it installed and adjusted properly. Replacing the stock 3.54 with a 3.90 or 4.10 rear gear. This will cost you in terms of higher revs on the freeway (and associated gas, wear and tear, etc) but you will definitely get to terminus speed a lot faster.
4. Now, finally, to the meat of your question: power mods... (and you'll note this is listed last as a matter of priority in which to do it all properly.)
A) Invest in ECU re-mapping, AKA "tune" (or buy the whole set up as you'll want to re-tune with each mod). While I won't say what I run in my garage, I will say it's worth it. Read up on the various types of tuning tools available.
B) Bolt on mods?? Ehhhh, you can add breathing apparatus such as plenum spacer, cold air intake, free flowing exhaust, etc. BUT that's not going to add a lot, in the grand scheme of things. But maybe that's all you really want/need given budget and your newfound ability to really push the car.
C) To get real power, you'll need to consider forced induction, be it turbocharging or supercharging.
Determining which way to go is a matter of matching your needs to the available solutions. Again, read up on this. There's tons of info on the interwebs and notably, for our cars, right here on this site.
But know this.... going FI requires everything I've mentioned... good chassis set up, increased braking, tune, driving skills, and of course, LOTS of c-notes. A PROPERLY set up car will EASILY run you $10k+
Long and short of it is: You can do it right or you can do it WRONG. And when it's wrong, it's WAY WRONG.
That's my devalued $.02, take it seriously or take it with a grain of sodium chloride. But at least consider it.
Cheers,
Mic
OP, there're few questions asked that have as many interpretations as yours. Like "What is the meaning of life?" Laff....
But here's a few tips:I'll start by saying that anyone who's read any of my posts knows what I'm about to say in preface to the actual answer... (YKWYA
).Improve the driver first. I don't mean that to be glib, I'm dead serious. Invest in driving school. Even a one or two day class. It's the mod that carries over to EVERY car you own or drive, even rental cars.
But most importantly, understanding what the car is doing and how it responds to your educated input is key to modifying your cars intelligently and with real expectations set.
My rule of thumb is that when you can drive your car to at least 75% of ITS capabilities then you can start modifying to suit you because you'll know exactly what it needs and more importantly, what it doesn't need as you may find that the car is more than adequate in stock form (or "requires" a lot less modification than you first believed).
Now, with that out of the way, here's my recs on modifying for more power.
1. Define your usage and budget.
You've got to be realistic. You're not going to build a 400WHP car on $1,000.
2. Once the above is determined, consider the ancillary/supporting requirements first:
In this case, handling improvements to keep all that horsepower in check and increased braking power to get you back down to Earth.
Suspension work (good alignment, sway bars, shocks, springs, alignment adjustability, with an alignment check between each step) if warranted and at least good brake pads and rotors. And of course, good tires and/or wheels! Won't go into that, that's a whole different thread, er, chapter, uhhh wait, book.
3. If you truly are constrained by a $1000 budget, the best bang for the buck in terms of acceleration gains that you can actually feel would be investing in a set of lower rear gears (and limited slip if you have an open diff) and having it installed and adjusted properly. Replacing the stock 3.54 with a 3.90 or 4.10 rear gear. This will cost you in terms of higher revs on the freeway (and associated gas, wear and tear, etc) but you will definitely get to terminus speed a lot faster.
4. Now, finally, to the meat of your question: power mods... (and you'll note this is listed last as a matter of priority in which to do it all properly.)
A) Invest in ECU re-mapping, AKA "tune" (or buy the whole set up as you'll want to re-tune with each mod). While I won't say what I run in my garage, I will say it's worth it. Read up on the various types of tuning tools available.
B) Bolt on mods?? Ehhhh, you can add breathing apparatus such as plenum spacer, cold air intake, free flowing exhaust, etc. BUT that's not going to add a lot, in the grand scheme of things. But maybe that's all you really want/need given budget and your newfound ability to really push the car.
C) To get real power, you'll need to consider forced induction, be it turbocharging or supercharging.
Determining which way to go is a matter of matching your needs to the available solutions. Again, read up on this. There's tons of info on the interwebs and notably, for our cars, right here on this site.
But know this.... going FI requires everything I've mentioned... good chassis set up, increased braking, tune, driving skills, and of course, LOTS of c-notes. A PROPERLY set up car will EASILY run you $10k+
Long and short of it is: You can do it right or you can do it WRONG. And when it's wrong, it's WAY WRONG.
That's my devalued $.02, take it seriously or take it with a grain of sodium chloride. But at least consider it.
Cheers,
Mic
sarcasm, maybe but he did say he wanted to add "a lot" he has no idea how expensive these cars are to get any considerable power from them
found an error... section B. hr's dont have plenums spacers
found an error... section B. hr's dont have plenums spacers
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10,315
Likes: 3,378
From: Northern California
Stop picking on me Trav. C'mon, first mistake in like 15 years and you found it. Psh.
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,892
Likes: 277
From: arizona
Mic you should know, one mistake on the track can kill you. Imagine what one mistake on a forum will do...
anyway... if the op comes back, here is a full bolt on package from Z1 for just shy of $3k
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4278
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4278
Registered User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,892
Likes: 277
From: arizona
anyway... if the op comes back, here is a full bolt on package from Z1 for just shy of $3k
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4278
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4278
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 48,548
Likes: 3,339
From: Jakku
I was trying to figure that out too.
Anyway, OP, test pipes and uprev tune will cost under a grand and will net you maybe 20whp. You can get true dual exhaust to go with it if you want for another grand or so. Beyond that, forget about building additional power unless you want to spend several thousand on a FI setup. Unfortunately for you and I, FI options for the HR motor are pretty lousy.
GTM makes/made an ok TT kit and decent super charger kit, but you do not want to deal with them. Trust me on that.
Greddy made a solid TT kit with mitsubishi turbos. Apparently that kit is no longer in production and they are revising it with Garrett turbos which would be much better IMO. I haven't heard any news on this in a long time which leads me to think the project slipped through the cracks and won't ever make it to production.
Boosted Performance is working on fabbing up a mid mount ST kit derived from the 370z kit. I don't like single turbos or mid mounts, so it's a no go for me.
AAM is developing a TT kit for the 370, DE, and HR. Untested by independent consumers and quite expensive. No clue when that will be ready for production.
May be some others I'm forgetting. That's the basic idea though.
Anyway, OP, test pipes and uprev tune will cost under a grand and will net you maybe 20whp. You can get true dual exhaust to go with it if you want for another grand or so. Beyond that, forget about building additional power unless you want to spend several thousand on a FI setup. Unfortunately for you and I, FI options for the HR motor are pretty lousy.
GTM makes/made an ok TT kit and decent super charger kit, but you do not want to deal with them. Trust me on that.
Greddy made a solid TT kit with mitsubishi turbos. Apparently that kit is no longer in production and they are revising it with Garrett turbos which would be much better IMO. I haven't heard any news on this in a long time which leads me to think the project slipped through the cracks and won't ever make it to production.
Boosted Performance is working on fabbing up a mid mount ST kit derived from the 370z kit. I don't like single turbos or mid mounts, so it's a no go for me.
AAM is developing a TT kit for the 370, DE, and HR. Untested by independent consumers and quite expensive. No clue when that will be ready for production.
May be some others I'm forgetting. That's the basic idea though.
Someone pass the milk, this was spicy AF!
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 48,548
Likes: 3,339
From: Jakku
OP check on this thread. The one that says noobs read before posting. One section on it talks about top 10 mods, free/cheap mods, etc. Should be info in there about stuff like intake exhaust wheels rimmed up with bangin beatZ, etc.
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...e-posting.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...e-posting.html
New Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,382
Likes: 116
From: New York
Hey bro yeah the vets here are as&holes. They believe they're superior because they had their Zs before us or something.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
They also forget we're on a forum for fun. They're not volunteering their time, they're on here for fun too. Although they think being a jerk in more fun than helping people.
As far as I have found for the HR. Intakes, test pipes, exhaust and a tune get ya close to 300hp.
Didn't your parents teach you if you don't have anything nice to say... Well ya know.
