grimlev

Hey all, wondering if I can get some input here. The car is a 2003 350z MT w/ 78,000 miles. Attached video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyy9...ature=youtu.be. Car is entirely stock save for NISMO exhaust.


While I was driving home, I heard these noises from the engine bay. The clutch feels rough, car is rattling, power draw is non-existent. I took it home and will have it towed it to my mechanic tomorrow morning. Any ideas what might be going on? I am about to sell this car, FWIW. I do not want to invest any more into the car if I can help it.

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

Is the noise rpm dependent?

Does the noise only only happen when you're driving or also at idle?

Have you checked to see if the engine is low on oil?

grimlev

Thanks for the reply! Noise only happens while driving or accelerating at idle. Does not appear to be RPM dependent. Oil levels are fine; I got an oil change last week, so there should be no problems there.

carbuffguy

I'd verify the oil level first up...

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't always trust what they claim they added. Sometimes they don't know any better. I've had a tech add 6 quarts by mistake before. More times than not they have the young kid performing the oil changes.

Try to take a video just of the engine bay while you're parked. I can't really tell where it's coming from. I can't tell if it's rod knock or perhaps something much less serious.

As long as you have a good mechanic they will tell you the truth.

Edit: do not start it again in the event it's an issue with the rod.

grimlev

Mechanic told me it's a broken AC compressor. Does that sound right given the noises? They're quoting $1040 for parts and labor, which seems to be on the high end of this job for a 2003 350z.

CK_32

iTrader: (1)

Could very well be. It is driven with the crank acc belt.

But that is a HUGE over charge bill.

AC condenser is $80.. He basically wants $920 for labor for a 2 hours job.

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

That could make sense. Just pay him for diagnosing the problem and run.

He is way overpriced and trying to pocket an insane profit.

Mark Vereshchak

Remove the belt from the AC compressor and see if the noise returns

djnekkon

holly Molly. thats like a 400 dollar job in a good/decent indie shop.

winchman

Any update?

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

hes likely pricing you an oem compressor, the charges are fine, although you can find cheaper.. hes not ripping you off..
If you can do it for less, so be it, but that doesn't mean that the regular priced items are robbery just because there's a bunch of china refurb stuff avail now.

djnekkon

I just asked my friends at universal Nissan and thats pretty much what they charge.

Mark Vereshchak

pull your rad an fan and unbolt the compressor. Its really not that bad! Crack the 14mm nut on the tensioner loose then loosen the actual tensioner from under the car which is a 12mm. There are 2 or 3 14mm bolts in front of the AC unit, a 14mm on the top right side of the compressor and 2 14mm bolts at the bottom back of the right side. All decently accessible with some extensions and a universal joint. Do yourself a favour and save the money