I have had my Z for 4 months now topped out the speedo and put 5000 miles on the car. I have learned to drive my car fairly well, close to it's stock potential if not right on the adge, IMO. Now I finally have permission to mod my Z, so I am developing a plan to guide its development.

My goal is to have a <=12 second car that is street legal. But retains its handling abilities. I like being able to handle corners and take off in the straights. I have been doing alot of research and reading the boards and threads for ideas. So I am starting off with a Track model and my plan was thinking of doing upgrades in this order...

Unorthodox Pully 7 (Average) HP Gain

JWT Popcharger 6 (Average) HP Gain

Kinetiz Plenum 8 HP Gain

TechnoSquare ECU 10 HP Gain

Stillen SS Cat Back Exhaust 16 HP Gain

Kinetix High Flow Cats 7 (Average) HP Gain

NISMO R-Tune Headers 9 (Low Average) HP Gain

Kinetix Rear Camber and Traction Bars

(Optional) Unorthodox Ultra G Clutch set

(Optional) Unorthodox Racing Ultra L Flywheel

(Optional) 350z EVO 3.97 Final Drive

(Optional) Edge Racing Custom Stall Converter, Street Edge (Powerglide)

GReddy Twin Turbo ?? (LOTS) HP Gain

Well as you can see this would build up a serious street and strip contender before doing suspension and tire work. Completely builds up its NA capabilities before going FI. Once making the move to FI only the Popcharger would have to go (Pully also maybe?) Putting down close to or around 350hp and similar torque with nothing but NA parts aint too shabby.

Anyone see any flaws in this plan? Suggestions? Missing anything? Pros - Cons... I'm no expert but I did alot of looking around with my350z.com as the reference tool. Also alot of then "extras" would be optional... Like the Torque Converter and Final Rear, optionals if the money is there but not "required" to fulfill "My Plan".

 

Mods just don't add up power wise. You will be nowhere near 350hp, at the wheels at least, with those NA mods. Honestly I wouldn't count on anything more than 275 or so NA without internal work.

 

On a Dyno yes, but adding the simple numbers from the stock number is where I came up with the 350ish HP.

Considering the the Stock Dyno is like 230ish, I would expect only around 275 on a Dyno with these mods, pre FI.

That sound about right?

 

What do you mean you finally have permission?

 

My wife controls the money in my house. Keeps me out of trouble I have 2 kids, 2 cars a dog and a house to pay for. If I controlled the money the family would live in the Tahoe and I would live in my car

So I have to get permission to buy the expensive toys that I like. You know, new computer, plasma TV, CAR/Mods

 

Haha. That sucks. It's things like this that really make me appreciate the single life.

While doing all of that work does sound like a lot of fun, I talked to a couple of SCCA guys a few weeks back and they happened to mention that they believed you should spend a year driving a car before you start modding it in order to really know how to drive the car. (Not that I haven't modded mine in the 5 1/2 months I've had her.) I know that is up for debate, but just something to think about.

Anyway, you're probably not going to get the results you're hoping for from all those mods. Like jcr847 said, you can't just simply add up the HPs. The engine is already pushing its NA limits stock. The only way you're going to get the results you want is with FI. I'm sure your wife wouldn't mind you dropping close to $10K on the GReddy TT kit.

 

IMO, If you are already going FI, dont play around with 2-8hp here and there with NA mods that are expensive, just go for it, get the FI on it now and get the benefit of over 100hp right away. Some people dont want to go FI for reliability concerns, you dont seem to be limiting yourself to NA mods thus get the FI now and enjoy significant hp otherwise you will be trying to see if you can really feel the added hp off of a plenium etc...

 

Dose that mean the other mods arent worth the money spent? I'm sure if I added up al the "NA Mods" I would come out around the cost of a TT or SC (Before install).

The problem with going straight to FI, for me atleast, is the cost. I have cought this "Mod Bug" and want to get the ball going. If I have to wait on a TT it will be atleast a year before I can afford it. And thats just depressing. Will the other mods not add to a TT or SC?

What I didn't add was that After, or at the same time, I go with a TT or SC I want to build the internals to handle greater boost. $7K for installed Vortech SC or $9K for installed GReddy TT is a BIG chunk of change and the wife is not likely to approve it untill next tax season (Having kids is great for tax returns )

I used to have a 92 Saturn SC, owned lock stoke and barrel, payed off in my name. I wanted to keep that car and mod it heavely. But I gave it to less fortunate folks (donated) because I could afford a new car without the trade in. I'm not exactly strapped for money, but definetly cant drop $7K+ in mods on a brand new car hehhe.

Anyone reading this want to sponsor a hopeless dreamer and enthusiest with donations? Didn't think so hehhe

 

Line jumpers will be ejected from the forum. Get to the back.

 

BTW Can anyone tell me if the JWT Popcharger will be removed/replaced with a GReddy TT or Vortech SC? I was getting ready to order it when I checked this thread again. I hear it sounds great. And being as cheap as it is, it's worth it just for the sound.

 

LOL I will wait my turn!!!

Modding is worse then crack... Because you can SEE what it's going to do and makes you drool.

 

Are the R-tune headers street-legal? I was under the impression that the R-tune line of Nismo parts were track only, otherwise they would be offered in the S-tune line.

Correct me if I'm wrong....

 

While you might end up spending the same amount, you're not going to get anywhere near the power increase that you'd get from the TT or SC.

If you're doing the installs yourself, you probably want to do all the little things as you proposed so that you can start having fun with that now. If you're going to pay someone to install everything, you're going to appreciate the gains the most by adding them all at once. In that case I think you should just hold off and get the TT or SC next year.

 

All the R-Tune means is that the part carries no warranty from Nissan or Nismo. With most of the S-Tune stuff, if you have it installed at a dealer who records your vin Nissan will warranty the part along with the rest of your car. If you have R-Tune headers you lose the warranty on your headers and thus any problem that the dealership attributes to the headers. You still retain the warranty on the rest of the car though.
R/S tune has nothing to do with the part being carb certified and thus inherently street legal. I would not be surprised if the s-tune exhaust broke some law governing aftermarket exhausts since there seems to be a limitless supply of those laws.

 

The JWT unit will be unnecessary if you go FI (supercharger or turbo) However, I am not 100% if the roots type chargers such as the stillen unit still use the stock air box, in that case you could still use the JWT. Turbo's or superchargers such as the vortech unit or the procharger would require you to remove the JWT.

 

Seeing as how I don't have the JWT, I have the K&N CAI, I can't be 100% positive, but as the JWT replaces the air filter, not the intake, I think the JWT doesn't need to be replaced when you install a TT or SC.

Even if it does though, if you're not getting a TT or SC for another year+, why not enjoy the JWT during that time?

 

DiRN you are a devils advocate!

Now you can understand the delema and questions I am asking. I don't want to waste money on parts that will be shelved a year later. But a the same time I don't have a problem dropping $100 or $200 on a mod that will give me a little more umph in the small of my back

The exhause is a definet want, and will do. Alot of the others thogh I worry will be a waste of money. I do intend to do 75% of the mods myself tho. Why pay a show $75 to install a JWT Popcharger that I can do in 30 minutes hehhe. And except for the headers I will do my own exhaust also.

If I go with an ATI Procharger will that make my NISMO R-Tune headers absolete? Again, thinking about cost down the road vs. shelving.

 

Haha. I try.

The JWT doesn't have to sit on the shelf. You can always sell it once you take it out. (Or just get another Z to put it in. )

 

I understand you. You're just looking to have fun modding your car for a year. That's totally understandable because that's what I've been doing.

Here's the majority opinion to the cheapest way to 270 NA bolt-on max (as of now):

350Z NA Stock: (235)

Stage 1: Intake & Exhaust* ~$1000 (245-250)
Stage 2: Kinetix Plenum/Cats ~$800 (260-265)
Stage 3: Pulley ~$200 (265-270)

*Costs and hp are just estimates

 

You have the right idea for the plan I am trying to map out. Only I was going in the oposite order.

About the exhaust tho, any other suggestions other then the Stillen SS Cat Back exhaust? This mod is mostly for HP not sound. I do like a deeper tone exhaust but am more concerned about the HP and will it bolt onto the TT/SC I plan to do in the future. What would be considered the "Best" Dual exhaust for HP Gain. Taking into consideration a TT or SC in the future? Yes, I see alot of different recomendations out there, but not enough hard numbers.

The GReddy TT and ATI Procharger come with 2 manifolds. Correct me if I am wrong but those would not be needed if I have headers already? Dous the Vortech SC come with manifolds also? I didnt see it in the parts list, but I may have just over looked it. Do I have to use the manifolds from the kit because of heat?