oil filter / oil
#1
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oil filter / oil
Hi, I have a 2004 Z and i'm getting close to 3000 miles.
The dealer of course suggested bringing it in for them to change the oil but i think that's insane. anyone have suggestions on a specific oil filter and type of oil to use? i would like to run synthetic but I thought perhaps someone here new better than i what to run through it and what type of filter to use.
thanks in advance.
The dealer of course suggested bringing it in for them to change the oil but i think that's insane. anyone have suggestions on a specific oil filter and type of oil to use? i would like to run synthetic but I thought perhaps someone here new better than i what to run through it and what type of filter to use.
thanks in advance.
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For the money, Mobil 1 synthetic all the way but I would do a 10k break in on dyno oil. Oil filter I'd use eaither a Nissan or a Puralator Pure One filter. Whatever you do, dont use Fram.
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any ideas
Originally posted by Icefury
For the money, Mobil 1 synthetic all the way but I would do a 10k break in on dyno oil. Oil filter I'd use eaither a Nissan or a Puralator Pure One filter. Whatever you do, dont use Fram.
For the money, Mobil 1 synthetic all the way but I would do a 10k break in on dyno oil. Oil filter I'd use eaither a Nissan or a Puralator Pure One filter. Whatever you do, dont use Fram.
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i found
purolator filters at advanced auto parts and i have the oil.
should i be able to find the necessary equipment needed to raise the car so i can change the filter myself. i used to have a 3000GT and i used to change it all of the time but the equipment wasn't mine. i suppose i need some sort of ramp or something.
thanks.
should i be able to find the necessary equipment needed to raise the car so i can change the filter myself. i used to have a 3000GT and i used to change it all of the time but the equipment wasn't mine. i suppose i need some sort of ramp or something.
thanks.
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as for fram, do a search on it in the repair section. someone posted a website of oil filter studies. It came out as the worst filter to put on your car. Those fram filters for our car are also much smaller than the OEM ones.
you can buy OEM filters from any nissan dealer in the parts dept.. or u can order online at www.courtesyparts.com make sure you get that collapsable washer too!
you can buy OEM filters from any nissan dealer in the parts dept.. or u can order online at www.courtesyparts.com make sure you get that collapsable washer too!
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I just got from the dealership to do the same thing. Just tell parts you are changin your own oil and ask for a filter and washer. I payed just under 8 dollars for both.
As for oil, im going to be using mobil 1 synthetic 5w30.
As for oil, im going to be using mobil 1 synthetic 5w30.
Last edited by BKMC; 09-29-2004 at 10:48 AM.
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#8
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350Z filter or Maxima Filter?
Do you guys use the 350Z oil filter or the Maxima oil filter?
350Z - 1520865F00
Maxima - 152089E000
The parts guy told me to use the Maxima filter as it is larger than the 350Z one.
Any thoughts??
350Z - 1520865F00
Maxima - 152089E000
The parts guy told me to use the Maxima filter as it is larger than the 350Z one.
Any thoughts??
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my dealer
is 30 miles away ( i live in a small town ) so is there a place i can get these washers? i'm going with the purolator oil filter..man the filters for the Z's sure are small!
Nevermind, i found the oil filters, plugs and washers at courtesyparts.com..just ordered.
thanks.
Nevermind, i found the oil filters, plugs and washers at courtesyparts.com..just ordered.
thanks.
Last edited by linuxbox; 09-29-2004 at 11:32 AM.
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I changed my oil to M1 at 3k miles. 17k miles now, sees the track regularly, not a drop burned. Mobil-1's website says you don't have to wait for 10k to switch.
Michael.
Crush washers? I haven't changed them in any of the last 5 Nissans I've owned.
Michael.
Crush washers? I haven't changed them in any of the last 5 Nissans I've owned.
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I'm a big believer in Mobil 1. It's widely regarded as the best synthetic you can buy, for the money. At Costco, it's under $4 per quart. Try the 5W30 - you'll be amazed how much quieter your engine is from a cold start.
I've also used German made Castrol Syntec 0w30. It's very hard to find, but it is excellent oil, from what I've read. Despite the weight designation, it is slightly thicker than the Mobil 1 5w30 and retains its higher viscosity at high temps. It keeps the engine even quieter than the 5w30.
It's important to note that the domestically produced Syntec is not the same product, even though the labels look virtually identical. The domestic stuff is actually made from highly refined mineral oil; not truely a synthetic despite the name.
As far as filters go....
The OEM filters are no better than any cheapo aftermarket paper filters that sell for much less $$$. The ones sold specifically for the 350Z (those tiny ones) are real junk -- the filter element has cardboard end caps! The larger Nissan filters (for the Maxima) do have metal end caps, but the filter media is no different -- just basic paper. (I took apart both filters... that's how I know this)
Personally, I use Mobil 1 filters - specifically the M1-110, which is the same size as the Maxima filter. Mobil 1 filters use largely synthetic filter media, which has a much higher filtering efficiency for small particles than paper. Paper is simply too porous to trap the smaller stuff. Pureolator Pure 1 is also a good filter, from what I've read.
Good luck with your decision.
Mika
I've also used German made Castrol Syntec 0w30. It's very hard to find, but it is excellent oil, from what I've read. Despite the weight designation, it is slightly thicker than the Mobil 1 5w30 and retains its higher viscosity at high temps. It keeps the engine even quieter than the 5w30.
It's important to note that the domestically produced Syntec is not the same product, even though the labels look virtually identical. The domestic stuff is actually made from highly refined mineral oil; not truely a synthetic despite the name.
As far as filters go....
The OEM filters are no better than any cheapo aftermarket paper filters that sell for much less $$$. The ones sold specifically for the 350Z (those tiny ones) are real junk -- the filter element has cardboard end caps! The larger Nissan filters (for the Maxima) do have metal end caps, but the filter media is no different -- just basic paper. (I took apart both filters... that's how I know this)
Personally, I use Mobil 1 filters - specifically the M1-110, which is the same size as the Maxima filter. Mobil 1 filters use largely synthetic filter media, which has a much higher filtering efficiency for small particles than paper. Paper is simply too porous to trap the smaller stuff. Pureolator Pure 1 is also a good filter, from what I've read.
Good luck with your decision.
Mika
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Mineral oils are genearlly not as good a lubricants as synthetic oils, which means that parts wear more quickly when using mineral-base oils.
In a new engine, a certain amount of wear can be a good thing - for example, the piston rings need to wear a bit before they seal properly against the cylinder wall.
The theory is that if you use synthetic oil from the beginning, engines take longer to break in, or may not ever break-in properly. That's the theory, anyway.
Whether you choose to belive it is another story. Many new cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.
To be on the safe side, I waited until 10K miles to switch over. While there may be little truth to the break-in theory, 10K miles on mineral oil won't hurt your engine.
Mika
In a new engine, a certain amount of wear can be a good thing - for example, the piston rings need to wear a bit before they seal properly against the cylinder wall.
The theory is that if you use synthetic oil from the beginning, engines take longer to break in, or may not ever break-in properly. That's the theory, anyway.
Whether you choose to belive it is another story. Many new cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.
To be on the safe side, I waited until 10K miles to switch over. While there may be little truth to the break-in theory, 10K miles on mineral oil won't hurt your engine.
Mika
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Try GC (German Castrol Syntec) 0W-30. It is different from Domestic Gastrol Syntec(which is made from Group 3, highly refined "synthetic" mineral oil). As stated earlier, GC are hard to find. So I have used Mobil 1 0W-40 (OEM for Mercedes AMG cars) with good result. Currently I am trying Mobil 1 5W-40 T&S(Truck and SUV) in my Z. my Z is much quieter on 0W-40 and 5W-40 grade oil then 5W-30. Fuel economy is roughly the same.
#20
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To the original poster:
I dont think 3000 miles is at all insane.
During break-in its always good to switch early to get wear particles out.
While this isnt as big an issue with a 2004 VQ35de as with engines of yore, it is still good practice.
If anything 3000 miles is running late.
I am switching my oil at 1200 miles- the end of the break-in period.
(Otehrwise I would have done it earlier.
I am also leery of switching to syn right away, even tho I really really want to...
I guess the second fill will be a dino oil ( a good one with a group II+ base stock like Chevron Sumpreme or Pennzoil, or one of the Shell products with XHVI basestock).
I leave that in until 3750 miles ( OEM recomendation) so the new oil will travel approx 2500 miles.
that oil change at dealer will be Pennzoil 5w-30 ( dealer house oil) for the winter a good choice and it will be winter by then.
(PS: Using a 5w-30 oil during summer doesnt make any sense as a 10w-30 will be just as good on start-up in summer but more stable during hard ruinning and have more "room" for anti-wear, anti foaming etc aditives as a 5w-30 would due to less V(I's used.)
My first syn fill will likely be GC or M1 0w40.
The GC is one of the best off-the-shelf oils you can buy but the fact that the M1 is a 40 weighgt oil means API will allow Mobil to put more anti wear agents in it w/o losing API sertification.
Fred..
I dont think 3000 miles is at all insane.
During break-in its always good to switch early to get wear particles out.
While this isnt as big an issue with a 2004 VQ35de as with engines of yore, it is still good practice.
If anything 3000 miles is running late.
I am switching my oil at 1200 miles- the end of the break-in period.
(Otehrwise I would have done it earlier.
I am also leery of switching to syn right away, even tho I really really want to...
I guess the second fill will be a dino oil ( a good one with a group II+ base stock like Chevron Sumpreme or Pennzoil, or one of the Shell products with XHVI basestock).
I leave that in until 3750 miles ( OEM recomendation) so the new oil will travel approx 2500 miles.
that oil change at dealer will be Pennzoil 5w-30 ( dealer house oil) for the winter a good choice and it will be winter by then.
(PS: Using a 5w-30 oil during summer doesnt make any sense as a 10w-30 will be just as good on start-up in summer but more stable during hard ruinning and have more "room" for anti-wear, anti foaming etc aditives as a 5w-30 would due to less V(I's used.)
My first syn fill will likely be GC or M1 0w40.
The GC is one of the best off-the-shelf oils you can buy but the fact that the M1 is a 40 weighgt oil means API will allow Mobil to put more anti wear agents in it w/o losing API sertification.
Fred..