JL 1000.1 amp acting up. Help
Originally posted by andyisphat2004
you dont need another battery i am running 2 10w7 off of a 1000w jl amp. i do have a yellow top though
you dont need another battery i am running 2 10w7 off of a 1000w jl amp. i do have a yellow top though
nissan_fanatic, Do your lights dim at all? And how are your subs hooked up? Like this : or some other ways let me know thanks!
Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:
edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.
Last edited by stu46; Feb 7, 2005 at 01:17 AM.
Originally posted by stu46
Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:
edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.
Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:
edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.
I checked the power wires and ground they are at 12.73 V or something like that so it gets good Voltige.... the amp has nothing wired to it exept the power wire, ground wire and the remote turn on. Still shows me that damn amber light. Wich wont let it turn on..
Originally posted by CopperZ
Well that cuz you dont have the $1000 JL 1000watt amp...
Well that cuz you dont have the $1000 JL 1000watt amp...
I know the amp draw on the 1200.1 can be as high as 200 amps... wonder what the JL does. Not that it really matters. My 800 dollar PG amp sounds better, that I have no doubt.*edit* it works *edit*
(and it doesnt kill my electrical system)
stu did you ever meter your car?
Sounds like you have no choice but to send the amp in. If you had the *****, I would suggest finding a forum where they know lots about JL amps and how to fix your amp. I dont know if that type of thing exsists but it does for PG hence the suggestion.
Last edited by Ahsmo; Feb 9, 2005 at 07:06 AM.
Originally posted by stu46
Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:
edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.
Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:
edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.
yeah you need to step up
1200watts I nearly have that going to my highs hehe
That's why I got the PG opening as a favorite....lol. JL amps are still good though. Overpriced, even though I run their subs.
No. We're all guessing 147-148db. They metered some other cars that came in 142db, it wasn't as loud as mine. But their civic with 2 12w6v2 is just crazy loud. I think it's 153db+. What about you, did you get a chance?
No. We're all guessing 147-148db. They metered some other cars that came in 142db, it wasn't as loud as mine. But their civic with 2 12w6v2 is just crazy loud. I think it's 153db+. What about you, did you get a chance?
Originally posted by Ahsmo
I know the amp draw on the 1200.1 can be as high as 200 amps... wonder what the JL does. Not that it really matters. My 800 dollar PG amp sounds better, that I have no doubt.*edit* it works *edit*
(and it doesnt kill my electrical system)
stu did you ever meter your car?
Sounds like you have no choice but to send the amp in. If you had the *****, I would suggest finding a forum where they know lots about JL amps and how to fix your amp. I dont know if that type of thing exsists but it does for PG hence the suggestion.
I know the amp draw on the 1200.1 can be as high as 200 amps... wonder what the JL does. Not that it really matters. My 800 dollar PG amp sounds better, that I have no doubt.*edit* it works *edit*
(and it doesnt kill my electrical system)
stu did you ever meter your car?
Sounds like you have no choice but to send the amp in. If you had the *****, I would suggest finding a forum where they know lots about JL amps and how to fix your amp. I dont know if that type of thing exsists but it does for PG hence the suggestion.

I've had my JL amp for quite a while and I have NEVER had a problem with it. No the JL 1000/1 does not have THAT much current draw. Its a Class D with a unique little power supply thats pretty damn efficient. JL recommends a 100 amp fuse so max current drawer is probably near 80-90 amps. Most likely you did a number on the amplifier circuit when you started powering your subs with insufficient power in. Your best bet at this point is to send it in to JL and have them repair it. If there is nothing but the power ground and remote wire connected and the light is on your amp is done. Verify all your settings first. Make sure the master slave switch is set correct. Lower all gains to minimum, etc. If the light still comes on send it in.
Originally posted by stu46
That's why I got the PG opening as a favorite....lol. JL amps are still good though. Overpriced, even though I run their subs.
No. We're all guessing 147-148db. They metered some other cars that came in 142db, it wasn't as loud as mine. But their civic with 2 12w6v2 is just crazy loud. I think it's 153db+. What about you, did you get a chance?
That's why I got the PG opening as a favorite....lol. JL amps are still good though. Overpriced, even though I run their subs.
No. We're all guessing 147-148db. They metered some other cars that came in 142db, it wasn't as loud as mine. But their civic with 2 12w6v2 is just crazy loud. I think it's 153db+. What about you, did you get a chance?
I am doing at least a 143.
Thats crazy for just two w6s
Is the car all torn apart and rebuilt for SPL? Or is it a normal civic?Xtant amps are nice...Id put them against the old MS series

these amps are top of the line hehe I cant afford them.
Originally posted by MIAPLAYA

I've had my JL amp for quite a while and I have NEVER had a problem with it. No the JL 1000/1 does not have THAT much current draw. Its a Class D with a unique little power supply thats pretty damn efficient. JL recommends a 100 amp fuse so max current drawer is probably near 80-90 amps. Most likely you did a number on the amplifier circuit when you started powering your subs with insufficient power in. Your best bet at this point is to send it in to JL and have them repair it. If there is nothing but the power ground and remote wire connected and the light is on your amp is done. Verify all your settings first. Make sure the master slave switch is set correct. Lower all gains to minimum, etc. If the light still comes on send it in.

I've had my JL amp for quite a while and I have NEVER had a problem with it. No the JL 1000/1 does not have THAT much current draw. Its a Class D with a unique little power supply thats pretty damn efficient. JL recommends a 100 amp fuse so max current drawer is probably near 80-90 amps. Most likely you did a number on the amplifier circuit when you started powering your subs with insufficient power in. Your best bet at this point is to send it in to JL and have them repair it. If there is nothing but the power ground and remote wire connected and the light is on your amp is done. Verify all your settings first. Make sure the master slave switch is set correct. Lower all gains to minimum, etc. If the light still comes on send it in.
heh I bet you were waiting to play that picture
If you are running anything smaller than a 4 guage to that 1000/1, you are choking it. That should not cause it to go into immediate protection. Blown subs or the amp itself would have that type of effect.
If you need another 1000/1, hit me up. I have one left!
If you need another 1000/1, hit me up. I have one left!
Originally posted by done12many2
If you are running anything smaller than a 4 guage to that 1000/1, you are choking it. That should not cause it to go into immediate protection. Blown subs or the amp itself would have that type of effect.
If you need another 1000/1, hit me up. I have one left!
If you are running anything smaller than a 4 guage to that 1000/1, you are choking it. That should not cause it to go into immediate protection. Blown subs or the amp itself would have that type of effect.
If you need another 1000/1, hit me up. I have one left!



