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JL 1000.1 amp acting up. Help

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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 09:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by andyisphat2004
you dont need another battery i am running 2 10w7 off of a 1000w jl amp. i do have a yellow top though

nissan_fanatic, Do your lights dim at all? And how are your subs hooked up? Like this : or some other ways let me know thanks!

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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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copperZ

with my 2200 watt RMS power, my lights dont dim unless I play rap
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:08 AM
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Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:

edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.

Last edited by stu46; Feb 7, 2005 at 01:17 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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Originally posted by Ahsmo
copperZ

with my 2200 watt RMS power, my lights dont dim unless I play rap
Well that cuz you dont have the $1000 JL 1000watt amp...
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 10:59 PM
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Originally posted by stu46


Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:

edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.

I checked the power wires and ground they are at 12.73 V or something like that so it gets good Voltige.... the amp has nothing wired to it exept the power wire, ground wire and the remote turn on. Still shows me that damn amber light. Wich wont let it turn on..
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 11:28 PM
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Originally posted by CopperZ
Well that cuz you dont have the $1000 JL 1000watt amp...


JL 1000/1 vs PG 1200.1

here's the opening lines.
pg -160
jl +200

ding! ding!
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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Originally posted by CopperZ
Well that cuz you dont have the $1000 JL 1000watt amp...

I know the amp draw on the 1200.1 can be as high as 200 amps... wonder what the JL does. Not that it really matters. My 800 dollar PG amp sounds better, that I have no doubt.*edit* it works *edit*


(and it doesnt kill my electrical system)


stu did you ever meter your car?


Sounds like you have no choice but to send the amp in. If you had the *****, I would suggest finding a forum where they know lots about JL amps and how to fix your amp. I dont know if that type of thing exsists but it does for PG hence the suggestion.

Last edited by Ahsmo; Feb 9, 2005 at 07:06 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:07 AM
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Originally posted by stu46


Looks like I need to put a few more amps then. My lights dont dim, even when playing crunk. But I'm only running 1200 watts RMS. :notworthy:

edit: If everything is hooked up correctly, your lights shouldn't dim. I'm running Xtant amps, that run very cool even when you lean on it. I still managed to overheat them and blow a sub, my lights still don't dim. (We were wondering how many dBs I'd hit.) Upgrade your power wire and your grounds.

yeah you need to step up 1200watts I nearly have that going to my highs hehe
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:08 AM
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That's why I got the PG opening as a favorite....lol. JL amps are still good though. Overpriced, even though I run their subs.

No. We're all guessing 147-148db. They metered some other cars that came in 142db, it wasn't as loud as mine. But their civic with 2 12w6v2 is just crazy loud. I think it's 153db+. What about you, did you get a chance?
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:10 AM
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Originally posted by Ahsmo
yeah you need to step up 1200watts I nearly have that going to my highs hehe
It's all about quality....
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:14 AM
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Originally posted by Ahsmo
I know the amp draw on the 1200.1 can be as high as 200 amps... wonder what the JL does. Not that it really matters. My 800 dollar PG amp sounds better, that I have no doubt.*edit* it works *edit*


(and it doesnt kill my electrical system)


stu did you ever meter your car?


Sounds like you have no choice but to send the amp in. If you had the *****, I would suggest finding a forum where they know lots about JL amps and how to fix your amp. I dont know if that type of thing exsists but it does for PG hence the suggestion.


I've had my JL amp for quite a while and I have NEVER had a problem with it. No the JL 1000/1 does not have THAT much current draw. Its a Class D with a unique little power supply thats pretty damn efficient. JL recommends a 100 amp fuse so max current drawer is probably near 80-90 amps. Most likely you did a number on the amplifier circuit when you started powering your subs with insufficient power in. Your best bet at this point is to send it in to JL and have them repair it. If there is nothing but the power ground and remote wire connected and the light is on your amp is done. Verify all your settings first. Make sure the master slave switch is set correct. Lower all gains to minimum, etc. If the light still comes on send it in.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:22 AM
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Originally posted by stu46
That's why I got the PG opening as a favorite....lol. JL amps are still good though. Overpriced, even though I run their subs.

No. We're all guessing 147-148db. They metered some other cars that came in 142db, it wasn't as loud as mine. But their civic with 2 12w6v2 is just crazy loud. I think it's 153db+. What about you, did you get a chance?
147 sounds about right.

I am doing at least a 143.


Thats crazy for just two w6s Is the car all torn apart and rebuilt for SPL? Or is it a normal civic?


Xtant amps are nice...Id put them against the old MS series
these amps are top of the line hehe I cant afford them.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:31 AM
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Originally posted by MIAPLAYA


I've had my JL amp for quite a while and I have NEVER had a problem with it. No the JL 1000/1 does not have THAT much current draw. Its a Class D with a unique little power supply thats pretty damn efficient. JL recommends a 100 amp fuse so max current drawer is probably near 80-90 amps. Most likely you did a number on the amplifier circuit when you started powering your subs with insufficient power in. Your best bet at this point is to send it in to JL and have them repair it. If there is nothing but the power ground and remote wire connected and the light is on your amp is done. Verify all your settings first. Make sure the master slave switch is set correct. Lower all gains to minimum, etc. If the light still comes on send it in.

heh I bet you were waiting to play that picture
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:43 AM
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Originally posted by Ahsmo
heh I bet you were waiting to play that picture
LMAO for like two weeks now...
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 08:06 AM
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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I'm gonna have to use that. Mind if I borrow?lol

It's just a normal civic. Broke his sunroof, paint is cracking on his trunk. Don't know how much longer it can go, but it's loud.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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If you are running anything smaller than a 4 guage to that 1000/1, you are choking it. That should not cause it to go into immediate protection. Blown subs or the amp itself would have that type of effect.

If you need another 1000/1, hit me up. I have one left!
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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Originally posted by done12many2
If you are running anything smaller than a 4 guage to that 1000/1, you are choking it. That should not cause it to go into immediate protection. Blown subs or the amp itself would have that type of effect.

If you need another 1000/1, hit me up. I have one left!
Only if its free or if you want to traid.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Anyone know the return policy at tweater?
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 04:27 AM
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Originally posted by CopperZ
Only if its free or if you want to traid.

I'll pass on that offer, but thanks!
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