new speakers with sotck amplifier?
08-06-2005, 07:58 PM
#1
new speakers with sotck amplifier?
I heard that the stock back speaker was like 8 ohms or even 4 ohms... I told my friend I wanted to replace the speakers with at least 16 ohms and he told me that I would have to replace the bose amplifier if I wanted to go up to those speakers.
Is this true? Do I really have to get a new amplifier to just get new better back speakers?
Is this true? Do I really have to get a new amplifier to just get new better back speakers?
08-07-2005, 07:53 AM
#2
Stock Bose
Front 6.5" = 4 ohm
Rear 6.5" = 4 ohm
Subwoofer = 2 ohm
Why go with 16 ohms - I've never seen a speaker with that high of a resistance. Typically you want as low as possible of resistance to allow the maximum wattage with the car's low +12V power supply.
If you change any of the speakers in the Bose system you'll want to swap out the amplifier and headend. In one of those two places Bose programs the equalization to compensate for the "room acoustics" (and CARP speaker elements). If I were a betting man I would guess the headend.
I've got my subwoofer amplifier sitting in the pile and might take it to work for a sweep through our Precision Standard System Two audio test set to see if it's equalized. I would think it would be cheaper for Bose to tweak the headend's response to compensate for their "quality" components.
Front 6.5" = 4 ohm
Rear 6.5" = 4 ohm
Subwoofer = 2 ohm
Why go with 16 ohms - I've never seen a speaker with that high of a resistance. Typically you want as low as possible of resistance to allow the maximum wattage with the car's low +12V power supply.
If you change any of the speakers in the Bose system you'll want to swap out the amplifier and headend. In one of those two places Bose programs the equalization to compensate for the "room acoustics" (and CARP speaker elements). If I were a betting man I would guess the headend.
I've got my subwoofer amplifier sitting in the pile and might take it to work for a sweep through our Precision Standard System Two audio test set to see if it's equalized. I would think it would be cheaper for Bose to tweak the headend's response to compensate for their "quality" components.
08-07-2005, 09:18 AM
#3
Sorry, I never knew the right ohm values.
Do you think it is a good idea to switch the rear speakers for better brand names and stick with 4 ohm or is that just money wasted when not changing the amplifier as well?
Do you think it is a good idea to switch the rear speakers for better brand names and stick with 4 ohm or is that just money wasted when not changing the amplifier as well?
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
Stock Bose
Front 6.5" = 4 ohm
Rear 6.5" = 4 ohm
Subwoofer = 2 ohm
Why go with 16 ohms - I've never seen a speaker with that high of a resistance. Typically you want as low as possible of resistance to allow the maximum wattage with the car's low +12V power supply.
If you change any of the speakers in the Bose system you'll want to swap out the amplifier and headend. In one of those two places Bose programs the equalization to compensate for the "room acoustics" (and CARP speaker elements). If I were a betting man I would guess the headend.
I've got my subwoofer amplifier sitting in the pile and might take it to work for a sweep through our Precision Standard System Two audio test set to see if it's equalized. I would think it would be cheaper for Bose to tweak the headend's response to compensate for their "quality" components.
Front 6.5" = 4 ohm
Rear 6.5" = 4 ohm
Subwoofer = 2 ohm
Why go with 16 ohms - I've never seen a speaker with that high of a resistance. Typically you want as low as possible of resistance to allow the maximum wattage with the car's low +12V power supply.
If you change any of the speakers in the Bose system you'll want to swap out the amplifier and headend. In one of those two places Bose programs the equalization to compensate for the "room acoustics" (and CARP speaker elements). If I were a betting man I would guess the headend.
I've got my subwoofer amplifier sitting in the pile and might take it to work for a sweep through our Precision Standard System Two audio test set to see if it's equalized. I would think it would be cheaper for Bose to tweak the headend's response to compensate for their "quality" components.
08-07-2005, 10:22 AM
#4
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The only 16 ohm speaker I've ever seen was the original non-Bose rear speakers. After popping them out I was surprised to read such a high ohmage value on the back.
08-07-2005, 02:50 PM
#5
If you want better sound it's going to cost you. You could pull the Bose system and go with a rather spartan headend and four speaker system which will sound better than the stock one with Bose amplifier and subwoofer.
I try not to do anything halfway but there is a point of deminishing returns where you can spend twice the money and barely get anything in return (except bragging rights!). Adding amplifiers for the front speakers and subwoofer plus the box and drivers for a subwoofer can easily cost more than the headend and front four speakers.
I try not to do anything halfway but there is a point of deminishing returns where you can spend twice the money and barely get anything in return (except bragging rights!). Adding amplifiers for the front speakers and subwoofer plus the box and drivers for a subwoofer can easily cost more than the headend and front four speakers.
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