Window hitting speaker
I have a 2003 6mt and I am replacing the front blose speakers with some CDT Audio HD62 components. I have made a 1 inch spacer but the drivers side window is right next to the speaker hole when rolled down and by the looks of it I would need at least a 1.5 inch spacer to get it to work. Does anyone else have that problem? Is there any way to move the window some so it does not hit?
thanks
thanks
Everyone has that same problem. Damn front 3 inches of the window..if we could just cut it off :-)
CDT HD62s are 2.75" mounting depth..one of the deepest besides Focal which are like 3". You only have 1.5" from door frame to window, so a 1" spacer is not enough for CDT. You will need a little bigger, but watch out, the further you push the speaker outward, the closer it will come to the plastic door panel..which you will probably have to cut a bit with a dremel or razor blade.
CDT HD62s are 2.75" mounting depth..one of the deepest besides Focal which are like 3". You only have 1.5" from door frame to window, so a 1" spacer is not enough for CDT. You will need a little bigger, but watch out, the further you push the speaker outward, the closer it will come to the plastic door panel..which you will probably have to cut a bit with a dremel or razor blade.
I think I see part of my problem but I do not know how to fix it. I noticed that my window is about an inch down from making a perfect seal at the top. You know how when you close the door it goes up alittle more. Is that becuase I have the door panel off? Or did I loosen something when I took the door off? I had not noticed it until last night.
I remember a thread a while back that someone said which 2 screws to loosen to move the window angle slightly. Anyone know?
thanks
I remember a thread a while back that someone said which 2 screws to loosen to move the window angle slightly. Anyone know?
thanks
I made an offset speaker spacer for my CDT's. You need to use 1 panel of 1/4" mdf in the shape of the stock speaker spacer, and then another RING of 3/4" mdf that you wood glue to the first one. The second ring should be offset away from the speaker, and then you will be all set. There will be like 1/4" of space between the magnet and the window on one side, and 1/4" of space between the magnet and the metal door opening on the other. Worked for me.
Thanks I will try that. What about the problem of my window not being all the way up to seal at the top of the window where it meets the roof. Is it becuase I dont have the door window control harness hooked up?
thanks
thanks
there are some pics of how I installed mine here toward the bottom http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnati...o=view&id=757C
As far as your window it probably is down a little because you have the window switch on that side unplugged, plug it in and you can move it...it should be all the way down when installing the speaker anyway to make sure you have clearance. But if your paranoid you broke something, the switch that tells the window to go up and down a little is on the door jam, just plug in the window switch and press the little pressure switch and the window should go up that inch or so.
As far as your window it probably is down a little because you have the window switch on that side unplugged, plug it in and you can move it...it should be all the way down when installing the speaker anyway to make sure you have clearance. But if your paranoid you broke something, the switch that tells the window to go up and down a little is on the door jam, just plug in the window switch and press the little pressure switch and the window should go up that inch or so.
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Yeah, what he said. The window will only jump up on closing if you have the switch connected. If you are going to have the panel off for a few days watch out when washing your car or rain. Water will seep in the gap between the window and frame unless you put the switch back on and roll it up.
I'm replacing my PG Elites with CDTs and have read another post where a guy had luck cutting an MDF spacer in half (cross-sectional) and gluing the pieces together so they angle the HD62 speaker upwards and back. Might want to search out theat post too.
I'm replacing my PG Elites with CDTs and have read another post where a guy had luck cutting an MDF spacer in half (cross-sectional) and gluing the pieces together so they angle the HD62 speaker upwards and back. Might want to search out theat post too.
Aww come on! Don't tell me you don't have a 12" Double-Bevel Compound Miter Saw!
Actually, they make miter saws that will handle crown molding standing vertically to 7"-8" so you might be able to rent one of them for the ring if you keep the ring diameter to a minimum.
Actually, they make miter saws that will handle crown molding standing vertically to 7"-8" so you might be able to rent one of them for the ring if you keep the ring diameter to a minimum.
Originally Posted by Badfish25
there are some pics of how I installed mine here toward the bottom http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnati...o=view&id=757C
I am studying up on replacing my crappy front speakers with some really good component speakers.
I was wondering why you put the tweeter where you did instead of where the factory tweeter is mounted?
Thanks
I have my tweeters in the same location. They sounded best there to me. Many audiophiles will advise to get max distance and as equal seperation as possible between your ears and the tweets. Also, try to get them along the same axis as the woofers. Best spot to do both of these is in the kick panels. Only issue is the sound stage is a bit low, but ambient tweeters on the dash or in the stockl location can fix that (CDT Audio or Boston Acoustics Neo).
Just my opinion, many people like them in the stockl location.
Just my opinion, many people like them in the stockl location.
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